1966 Corvette L72 Light Refresh

[napa68]

After I posted in the "birthday" thread, there seemed to be some interest in my latest acquisition. This 66 coupe is features all born with drivetrain, trim tag, VIN tag, and most all original secondary dated components. The only exception I have found yet is the water pump (which I have sourced a properly dated unit). The NCRS Shippers Report indicates the car was officially produced Jan 10th 1966 being delivered to Marsh Hallman Chevrolet in Albany, NY. The car was later sold on May 19th 1966. Documented by it's original Protect-O-Plate and dealer invoice. The car is optioned with.
-L72 427-425hp
-M21 4 speed
-G81 3.70 positraction diff
-K66 Transistorized ignition
-N14 Side mounted exhaust
-P92 White stripe 7.75-15 tires
-U69 AM/FM radio
-A01 Tinted glass
https://i.imgur.com/A0F3qOMh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/79DoMgEh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UdjtfHzh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FqOdvH1h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N5g8AJKh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7rbZBjEh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YA4aPsXh.jpg


The combination of a real L72 car, Nassau Blue with blue / white interior, and a factory side pipe car is just too irresistible to not keep around for a while (or longer). It's an original paint car, with a really nice original interior. Good docs, great colors (IMO). I bought this car from a friend, so I did not travel to inspect the car nor have anyone look at it (mistake)

Sometimes these cars play well, and other times not so much. This one fought me right off the trailer. When the car arrived, it was about 10F degrees. The battery was not up to the task first of all. Then after rolling the car out of the trailer, I was able to get the car started with a jumper pack. That led to a carb that was hemorrhaging fuel. I'm thinking to myself this ain't starting out too well. With the addition of a fresh battery (old one was 5 years old) and a carb rebuild, I got the car fired up and proceeded to tune on it a bit. Actually runs pretty good (especially when one considers this still has the original plug wires on it yet). I'm thinking to myself maybe the worst is over? I did discover though there were some more items that were inop than what was presented to me when I bought the car. Most notably the fuel gauge, temp gauge, back up lights, and wiper motor (but wait.....there is more).

I knew the clock and radio did not work going into this. Soooooo, I popped the clock to send that out, and then diagnose the radio situation. I was pleasantly surprised to find the speaker was the culprit. Ironically, I had just gotten a couple mid year speakers rebuilt by Jackson Speaker Service and they were on the shelf. Radio now sounds great and works like a charm.
On to the rest of the issues.........
https://i.imgur.com/NIIwSUNh.jpg

On my initial examination, I also discovered the speedometer was disconnected at the trans. I do know for certain the car had accumulated about 100 miles since 2022 (last time the car was advertised). It's a safe assumption there is an issue of sort, so I pulled the tach and speedo to send that out to my speedo guy in Milwaukee. I have had people ask me where I am sending this type of work to, so here is the link to his shop. He (Roger) is very knowledgeable and turns the work around quickly.
http://www.speedometersolutions.com/
https://i.imgur.com/CkirVggh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gavVhwnh.jpg

I then proceed to diagnose the rest of the inoperative items.
1. Fuel gauge
2. Temp gauge
3. Back up lights
4. Wiper motor
The first 3 items have a common source for power. After testing for continuity in all of the respective circuits, I find a pretty good voltage drop in the main dash harness. I peeled that apart to find at least 1 issue. Furthermore, there was another issue I discovered to boot in the main harness. So, I've got a new main harness on order. I'll also add this car must of had an electrical issue previously, as the engine harness had been replaced.
https://i.imgur.com/AfnSS4wh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mArsLIlh.jpg

The car is showing 65k miles on it. I see freeze plugs with imprints on them, along with Fel Pro head gaskets. We now know it has some type of rebuild on the engine (which is fine IMO). I am always a bit concerned with an original engine due to the nylon timing gear. I scoped the bores to have a look. I appears as though the engine retains it's original domed pistons? I did not see any sort of imprints on the tops of the pistons, and also saw hone marks (along with a few scuffs). It would be great if this had the original size bore and proper compression. They always seem to run a bit better when they have some squeeze. The plugs looked decent given the lack of activity the car has had in recent years. The valve lash was really close when I checked it all. But, while I'm here, I ran all of the valves.
https://i.imgur.com/rZcrD0ih.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2OUv8vIh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CpaoULvh.jpg

Today, I'll bench test the wiper inop wiper motor and see what needs to be done there. If I can get it going, I'll put new rubber components in the washer pump and clean everything up the best I can. One of the headlight motors is really lethargic (another item my "friend" neglected to tell me). So I'll get both of those out, clean the armatures in both, clean out the old grease in the transmission side of the motors, lube everything up and see where that takes me.
https://i.imgur.com/rEh2Jubh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lVwRIECh.jpg

[RPOLS3]

Love following along on these threads - this car checks all the right boxes too.......

[67since67]

Yet ANOTHER reason for a visit to the Boulder Beer Bar!! :beers:

You are having too much fun Tim!

[dykstra]

What a great car! Love this!!

[Steve Shauger]

Tim you are amazing and when this has had your touch it will be perfect! Look forward to this "Light Refresh" progress.

[napa68]

I got into the wiper motor yesterday, and that endeavor was a bust. I'll need some professional help there. FWIW, that has been suggested to me more than a few times prior:smile:

Here is what I did rebuilding one of the headlight motors. More often than not, the grease in them gets so gummed up, electrically they are fine. Just a good cleaning and reassembly is all that is needed. I keep the gears in stock, as sometimes they have a section that gets worn and can bind up a little bit.
https://i.imgur.com/hTEHgJBh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SSHUMcSh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KuL8Rqbh.jpg

Some time in the ultrasonic cleaner with Purple Power (I left the field housing alone to preserve the ink stamp). Here is the old gear (left) compared to the new gear
https://i.imgur.com/Z3DgIBwh.jpg

Perfect date for a January 66 car
https://i.imgur.com/NUzY0tVh.jpg

And reassemble with white lithium grease
https://i.imgur.com/sABHUFSh.jpg

As mentioned before, the car is a New York car. What history I can put together this far, the car was in NY until 1995. The car had received a Bloomington Survivor Award in 1993 on all parts of the car with the exception of the chassis. Certainly, that program has become much more stringent since then. Regardless, I busted out the Go-Jo to start soaking, degreasing and cleaning the chassis.

A few before pics. The chassis is VERY solid, just not a California car.
https://i.imgur.com/wUovqYTh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/O1YfwILh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4B7J2frh.jpg

And the first soak......
https://i.imgur.com/oH1TPkkh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rzG7iJDh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OwLzWvzh.jpg

[TimG]

The car is looking good, Tim. I want to see chassis pictures as you progress. If there is a '66 worthy of this type of mechanical rebuild, this is the car.

[60sStuff]

Tim,

Your endless energy spent on refining top of the line Corvettes that you seek out and bring to BMC is exciting to watch.

And yet “another” gauge cluster, soon with eyes closed.

Thanks for sharing the preservation of such awesome cars!

Chris.

[TimG]

Tim, I know we talk often and I could ask you in one of our conversations, but what type of Go-Jo do you use? Do you just apply it and steam clean it off? I thought others may want to know, also.

[Z282NV]

Beautiful Vette. I always enjoy watching you work out the gremlins on the cars coming into your shop.

[olredalert]

----Tim,,,I see a bunch of NCRS wonks looking at the bottom of that oil pan and then running to their garage to remove the multiple layers of Chevy orange on the bottom of theirs. Not every engine is lacking that much orange, but many did. Did I say that it's very, very cool!!!. One cool 66....Bill S

[napa68]

Tim, I know we talk often and I could ask you in one of our conversations, but what type of Go-Jo do you use? Do you just apply it and steam clean it off? I thought others may want to know, also.

It is the old white hand cleaner that has been around since George Washington chopped down the cherry tree. Having said that, the product has been discontinued. NAPA has what looks to be the same product # MAC5005

[napa68]

Tim,

Your endless energy spent on refining top of the line Corvettes that you seek out and bring to BMC is exciting to watch.

And yet “another” gauge cluster, soon with eyes closed.

Thanks for sharing the preservation of such awesome cars!

Chris.

Thanks Chris. One item I have learned from pulling all of these clusters, the speedo heads and tach units need love. In this case, both units had bushings that were out of them, as well as the magnets. I was told by Roger today, the odometer while it worked, would have taken out the speedo cable sooner than later. The tach was wandering ALL over above 2500 rpm. It would have not been long before that shit the bed.

With shipping both ways, I'll have about 750 invested in that alone. It's not cheap nor easy to do these things correctly. It's the right thing to do. I'll have an update tomorrow on the chassis. So far, I'm happy with the results.

[napa68]

Yesterday was a long and dirty day of cleaning / preserving the chassis on the car. Considering the history of the car and where it spent a good amount of it's life, I'm happy with the results. You'll see the non OEM shocks in the pics.....those are old school Koni's:grin: As I have mentioned before, I have more history to seek, prior to 1995.

There is some evidence the car was used for it's intended purpose. The car is not documented to be an F41 suspension in the car, yet there is an F41 front sway bar, F41 rear spring (aftermarket bolts securing it to the trailering arms) and the aforementioned Koni's. The lips on the rear wheel wells were shaved assumingly for larger rear tires.

https://i.imgur.com/hCe4LVSh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GPSQ95Gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c9L3tHJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LtSlHrhh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Diu6PjPh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Khbxb3Kh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Xg2N7Snh.jpg

I had ordered up a set of tires for the car right after it landed. When purchasing the car, I was told the tires were new back in 2022. He wasn't lying, they were new TO THIS car. They were reproductions from (what I figure) back in the 90's. Made in Argentina. They were just about as hard as some of the original non DOT's I've mounted and dismounted. The spare is the original Firestone Deluxe Champion, so I followed suit with the new skins. Another little surprise, was none of the wheels were original to the car. They were all 15x6 (should be 15x5.5). One of them was not even a GM wheel. Luckily, I had a nice survivor set of 65-66 wheels at the shop.

https://i.imgur.com/2Ixw3HOh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HMSTkLIh.jpg

Today's task, get this installed.......
https://i.imgur.com/mghwYyxh.jpg

[TimG]

I wish I was there to help with the harness, but it would take an extra day if I offered a hand.

The chassis is looking VERY good. I hope to see this car at a judging event in 2025.

[cheveslakr]

Love your '66 Tim. You're killin' it, and imo, you really had no choice on a cherry like this to approach it's preservation in way you are. I'll be following very closely, we have similar cars, but mine is an AOSmith body, so some differences. My car is getting close to finish and I just got my gauges shipped back, still in mail. Right now I'm fumbling around with the dash wiring.......if there's one thing that rings true on a C2 is EVERYTHING has it's place, every wire and cable needs to be exactly the way chevy engineered or it just won't fit or work right. I took plenty of pics, which helped, but still scroll through archives of other builds and completed cars. I'll be watching. Again, thanx for bringing us along.

[olredalert]

----Under carriage is my kind of spectacular, Tim. Neither Jan's or mine are original unrestored. Wish they were just like what I'm looking at....Bill S

[napa68]

Parts are continuing to roll in. The dash harness is installed and the circuits of concern have tested out. They never fit quite as well as what was original, but that is just the way it is.
https://i.imgur.com/ajoX2UMh.jpg

I removed the bad / incorrect water pump. Then proceeded to clean the fan shroud and other areas that would be much less accessible. The car has it's original lower radiator hose and clamps. Looks like I'll be able to preserve them and reuse. Fingers crossed.
https://i.imgur.com/SeBmNOjh.jpg

While waiting, I cleaned up the ignition shielding and installed a D308 non "R" distributor cap that I had in stock
https://i.imgur.com/O8bLln7h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5LP3y29h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tZSXueDh.jpg

I found a perfectly dated water pump. I sparingly painted the unit. Once everything else is installed and I get a couple of heat cycles on it, I'll see how it looks. I may wipe it down with some thinner just to kill the color and gloss some some.
https://i.imgur.com/RSb4z6wh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6JrwyXzh.jpg

Lastly, the speedo and tach came in. I was able to get the cluster reassembled with the exception of the gauges on the left. The fuel gauge was kind of wonky in bench testing. I have found one and that is on the way in.
https://i.imgur.com/mo9XZcGh.jpg

[olredalert]

----Tim,,,Just take a look at the lower hose internal spring, and make sure it isn't compromised. Don't want it to collapse! I have a very, real connection to all 66 425/427 Corvettes. Would have to stretch the memory to count how many I have had and that's worse a little bit every day, LOL!....Bill S

[napa68]

----Tim,,,Just take a look at the lower hose internal spring, and make sure it isn't compromised.

Good point Bill! It seems to have integrity when I was moving things around to disassemble / reassemble.

[cheveslakr]

Ha! After drooling a bit over your gauge pod, I looked at the gauges I just received in the mail today.....I beat you by over 2000 miles!!

[Canuck]

Nice!!!!!

[dykstra]

Super cool! Looks fantastic Tim!

[napa68]

Slowly creeping to a finish on this stage. This car has proven to be a fighter. The gas gauge is now working. The replacement I received was NFG, so that had me double and triple checking all of the continuity and resistances again. Luckily, a friend over in Eagle River had an NOS gauge in his stash.

Furthermore, the wiper motor that came in tested good on the bench. It was acting all sort of funny in the car. The major sign, it would not park. So that came apart to only find the small spring was missing for the park solenoid. There was not even any evidence it was in there (like to broke). So, I dug through a spring assortment I have here, and was able to "engineer" it to work. Shazam! Works just like it should now.

Lastly, USPS managed to lose a couple of items on mine in the last couple of weeks:bs: Of course, one of those items is preventing me from finally securing the gauge cluster into the dash. The other item they lost for a week was all of the paperwork and images I sent in to Al Grenning for his CCAS Validation's on the engine deck, trim tag, and POP. Luckily, that surfaced and was delivered on Friday.
https://i.imgur.com/v9VyAeMh.jpg

Just killing some time today, I decided to play around with a light steam on the carpets to see if I could get any sort of improvement. Nothing notable to report there. Still really nice original carpets in this car nonetheless, and don't want to risk going backwards using any sort of carpet cleaner.
https://i.imgur.com/R16jk2yh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XcmWcuDh.jpg

[TimG]

I had the same issue with a wiper motor rebuild, Tim. The park spring came off in transit and the motor had to come out for a quick fix. I'll never install another without checking to be sure the spring is in place.

[MosportGreen66]

Tim and I had a nice convo about this '66 L72. This seems to be a very nice original car! Congrats to Tim for a gentle clean to preserve that chassis and original educational value.

[napa68]

Moving closer to the finish line........an inch at a time.

The cluster is secured in, and thus got the steering column installed. To only find out I must have tweaked the main shaft and thus the directional switch. Horn was stuck on. Took it apart and yeah, the switch was boogered. So, I am waiting for that to come in. I did get the clock back and installed. At least that worked out to plan!
https://i.imgur.com/FWzJBOih.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cSPDnjqh.jpg

Here is an ink stamp on the fan clutch. This decodes to December 2nd of 65.
L=December
2=2nd day of month
F=1965
https://i.imgur.com/BW9i55Sh.jpg

The car has 1 pair of original keys that came with it. Ironically, Marsh Hallman made an error on entering the ignition key codes of the dealer invoice.
https://i.imgur.com/tMZ1Swah.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yds17DXh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/i18T8glh.jpg

I am tickled with the body (among other obvious items). The paint has some checking here and there, but overall is really nice. Great detectible bonding seams and of course the original dealer emblem
https://i.imgur.com/QuLLvxNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ApCs6OCh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OBD9H1rh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/aONF643h.jpg

Last but not least, the affirmations came back from Al Grenning for the engine block, trim tag, and POP.
https://i.imgur.com/UhXPmuth.jpg

Of course all of this progress cannot go unpunished:scholar: I fired the car up and the carb was not happy once again. I said piss on it. Pulled it off and sent it out to Phil. While rebuilding a carb is certainly in my skill sets, I have concluded in these parts that are 50-60 years old need to pulled down to nothing, machined back to be square, and be the focal point of a seasoned pro. In short, I feel like I should do that with most any carb that comes through the shop.

[scuncio]

Man! Nice work as always. I agree with your take on carb rebuilding. Mine seem to have a countdown timer and I start having problems in a few months, whereas Eric Jackson’s rebuilds are still 100% years later.

[Tuna Joe]

Slowly creeping to a finish on this stage. This car has proven to be a fighter. The gas gauge is now working. The replacement I received was NFG, so that had me double and triple checking all of the continuity and resistances again. Luckily, a friend over in Eagle River had an NOS gauge in his stash.

Furthermore, the wiper motor that came in tested good on the bench. It was acting all sort of funny in the car. The major sign, it would not park. So that came apart to only find the small spring was missing for the park solenoid. There was not even any evidence it was in there (like to broke). So, I dug through a spring assortment I have here, and was able to "engineer" it to work. Shazam! Works just like it should now.

Lastly, USPS managed to lose a couple of items on mine in the last couple of weeks:bs: Of course, one of those items is preventing me from finally securing the gauge cluster into the dash. The other item they lost for a week was all of the paperwork and images I sent in to Al Grenning for his CCAS Validation's on the engine deck, trim tag, and POP. Luckily, that surfaced and was delivered on Friday.
https://i.imgur.com/v9VyAeMh.jpg

Just killing some time today, I decided to play around with a light steam on the carpets to see if I could get any sort of improvement. Nothing notable to report there. Still really nice original carpets in this car nonetheless, and don't want to risk going backwards using any sort of carpet cleaner.
https://i.imgur.com/R16jk2yh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XcmWcuDh.jpg

Great car! Trying to learn here.
What would/could happen to the carpet if you were to shampoo it?
Thanks

[napa68]

Great car! Trying to learn here.
What would/could happen to the carpet if you were to shampoo it?
Thanks

I've had mixed results, and feel I have damaged the rugs in previous cars. I gotta admit, I have become a bit of a connoisseur about certain original items, carpets being one of them. I can thank Tim G for causing this disorder:laugh: I have not given up on improving the rugs, but I can live with them the way they are.

As a side note, Tim G is also responsible for my fetish revolving around non DOT tires, original shocks, the aforementioned carpets, fasteners, and a gaggle of other items that defy common sense to a reasonable adult. Seriously though, Tim is a wheelhouse of knowledge and certainly has upped my game. Most importantly, just a great guy and a genuine friend:biggthumpup:

[TimG]

The feeling is mutual, Tim.

[olredalert]

----Tim,,,Just noticed your addiction to non DOT. Did you see my perfect untouched US Royal spare at MCACN? Of course finding any more 66 only US Royal's may ware out your patience, but I'm ready to get off of this tire-wheel combo and will be very friendly price wise if it helps!....Bill S

[napa68]

----Tim,,,Just noticed your addiction to non DOT. Did you see my perfect untouched US Royal spare at MCACN? Of course finding any more 66 only US Royal's may ware out your patience, but I'm ready to get off of this tire-wheel combo and will be very friendly price wise if it helps!....Bill S

I did. It's like trying to keep the gambling addict out of the casino. This car does have it's original Firestone spare. But damn..........:naughty:

[67since67]

I did. It's like trying to keep the gambling addict out of the casino. This car does have it's original Firestone spare. But damn..........:naughty:

Tim,,,you and I both know you own another suitable '66 eventually.

There's just something about OEM tires, and exhaust, and shocks, and carpet, and seat covers, and, and, and.....

[napa68]

Yesterday had it's high and lows for certain. The heat riser gasket was leaking. I had been soaking the nuts on the manifold studs for a couple of weeks. 2 of the nuts on the passenger were cooperative (with heat). 1 of them was not.........
https://i.imgur.com/qd81jmnh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uCOppbth.jpg

I have had luck with welding a nut onto the remaining stud.
https://i.imgur.com/vq5XZKzh.jpg
That was not the case here. Soooo.....pull the manifold and sharpen up the bits. This only killed half of the day yesterday. A victory was had though!
https://i.imgur.com/KP8U3Luh.jpg

The directional switch came in, and that all went to plan. Now I could button up the interior:biggthumpup:
https://i.imgur.com/y87CgwPh.jpg

[Z282NV]

It's looking great Tim. :beers:

[TimG]

That's lots of work, Tim. I'm glad all of the manifold bolts came off without breaking.

[Too Many Projects]

Can't believe you don't have an electric torch... this tool has saved me many yours of frustration with frozen fasteners over the years. Guarantee, it would have heated that nut in under 60 seconds and broken the rust lock to spin off.

[napa68]

Can't believe you don't have an electric torch... this tool has saved me many yours of frustration with frozen fasteners over the years. Guarantee, it would have heated that nut in under 60 seconds and broken the rust lock to spin off.

That's exactly what I have. I gave up on a conventional torch long ago after I discovered the inductive units.

[Too Many Projects]

That's exactly what I have. I gave up on a conventional torch long ago after I discovered the inductive units.
Seems odd that the heater wouldn't loosen the nut, leaving the stud in the manifold. When it didn't turn with moderate force, did you heat cycle it 3-4 times more ? With a stud like that, I never use a power tool until I can get it to move by hand with a ratchet. I'm not as good as you with drilling out broken fasteners and will test my patience level with attempting to remove without breakage.

[napa68]

Seems odd that the heater wouldn't loosen the nut, leaving the stud in the manifold. When it didn't turn with moderate force, did you heat cycle it 3-4 times more ? With a stud like that, I never use a power tool until I can get it to move by hand with a ratchet. I'm not as good as you with drilling out broken fasteners and will test my patience level with attempting to remove without breakage.

Oh yeah......lots of patience. I tried to sneak up on it. As you can see, there is another stud that is shaped like a Coke bottle. Very fragile. I suspect someone could have been here before and elected to kick the can down the road......to me!

FWIW, I'm not all that great at broken fastener removal myself. This one worked out well. Even looks like I was straight:crazy:

[napa68]

I had a package(s) arrive today in the form of some nice survivor knock offs. Mike Vercheak and I were talking L72's, and he proceeded to tell me about the set of 5 he had. Mike was VERY fair with me, and check out these crates he made to ship them!!!!!

[TimG]

That car is going to be DYNAMITE with those wheels on it.

[67since67]

Mike Vercheak


Would that be Mike Vranek?? If so I'd swear I told you he had those, and they are Nice!

[Too Many Projects]

Would that be Mike Vranek?? If so I'd swear I told you he had those, and they are Nice!
Yeah, but how many barley pops had Tim consumed when this was discussed...:naughty:

[luzl78]

Stop making the car so much nicer. You’re making it harder to buy it when you move on to the next project.

[napa68]

Would that be Mike Vranek?? If so I'd swear I told you he had those, and they are Nice!

You did. These are different wheels

[69M22Z]

Nice wheels!!

[RPOLS3]

So what are you going to put on those for shoes?

[luzl78]

goldlines!

[napa68]

So what are you going to put on those for shoes?

I'll swap the white wall's on there. Me personally, like the way they play off of the interior

[TimG]

Whitewalls work with the white interior.

[napa68]

Today, I got the carb back from Phil. Wasting no time, that got installed. Great day for a road test!

https://i.imgur.com/OA6Yi1jh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VqkI1d1h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j6Gyh2th.jpg

[Z282NV]

Don't leave us hanging......how was the road test?

[Too Many Projects]

Don't leave us hanging......how was the road test?
He's trying to figure out how to explain to Tracey that he needs a another new set of tires already... :wink:

[napa68]

Don't leave us hanging......how was the road test?

Sweet😁

Looks like I need to rebuild the master cylinder. I'll have a good pedal, then just okay, to only be good again. Kinda screwy. It needs plug wires. I have a set, so I'll get those installed. In all, I'm happy with it

[TimG]

Nice cool day up North for a test drive. You can check the heater.

[napa68]

The plug wires made a noticeable improvement. The engine picked up 100 RPM with that change alone. Of course, the difference in the product is detectable. When I'm bored, I'll install new plug wires inside the braided sheath. That requires some time and patience. The original is the wire on the top......
https://i.imgur.com/sMXBsyKh.jpg

And there she is.....just about finished. Ignition timing is set @12 degrees advanced @750rpm. That gives me 38 degrees all in. Topped is off with an NOS A212CW I had acquired recently
https://i.imgur.com/IECEm56h.jpg

Next, I'll rebuild the master cylinder and put some more miles on before I switch to the knock off's. I want to get real familiar with the car before switching over to a wheel like the factory KO's. That way I have a real solid baseline in order to detect if there is not something right with the KO installation. I had one of those come off when I was about 21 years old. You could say that gets a little rough on the bodywork.

[Z282NV]

Such a beautiful Vette. Can't wait to see it with original KO's. Keep the pictures coming. Thx.

[67since67]

When I'm bored, I'll install new plug wires inside the braided sheath. That requires some time and patience.

So...tomorrow???

[big gear head]

I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

[napa68]

I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

Yeah......there are plenty of stories as such. Having said that, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about these wheels. IMO a big part is finding wheels and adapters that have not suffered any trauma. The pins on the adapters and holes on the wheels, can get wallowed out. The large holes are for the lug nuts to secure the adapter to the rotor (drum) and the small holes are for the pins. I looked at 4 different sets, before buying the wheels from Mike. These were a really nice set.
https://i.imgur.com/pZ6DvNJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4WG9DLLh.jpg

Furthermore, the wheel needs to sit flush to the adapter (like any wheel should). It is also key that the adapters are on the correct way. There is a left and right side and it makes a difference.
https://i.imgur.com/Ih7sUL1h.jpg

Lastly, I was given the advice years ago to use the "Mutha Thumpr" lead hammer. This is what all of the Cobra guys use.
https://performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_tools/hammer.html


Many people try with a dead blow, but it just does not yield the same results. I'll also utilize my lovely assistant (Tracey) to sit in the car, with the brakes applied and car in the air, when delivering the final blows. Often swinging like Babe Ruth. The tone of the contact changes when the wheel is properly seated. I'll then make a discreet mark with a Sharpie on the spinner / cone so I can easily peek at the wheel.
https://i.imgur.com/0SSJdsQh.jpg

Since adopting these practices, I have had no issues with these wheels. Regardless of everything I just laid out, I have the luxury these days of extra wheels and tires, as well as a tire changer to go about all of this. As I mentioned, I'm going to get familiar with the nuances of the car before changing to the KO's.

At the risk of sounding like a know it all:scholar:, there are some principles here that should be utilized with the conventional 4/5 lug wheels as well. Throughout my career in the parts business, I saw more than my fair share of wheels becoming loose or coming off at a variety of customers. Wheel damage, corrosion, proper engagement of the lug nut to the wheel, improper use of an impact gun, torque sticks, etc. are all contributing issues for failure.

I gotta admit, I carry a bit of paranoia when installing / reinstalling wheels and tires. An accurate torque wrench is your friend. I also like to retorque the wheels after about 100 miles. I'll step off the soap box now:wink:

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby. The thread Steve started some time ago about tires dates is the first thing that comes to mind.

[TimG]

Those are all great percautions, Tim. The lead hammer and applying the final blows with the tire off the ground are important as is marking the cone and spinner. I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.

I've had lots of experience with Halibrand KO wheels and I love to wire them, but we can't do that with Corvette wheels.

[67since67]

I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.


Yes Tim, the KO's did specify longer lug nuts. I believe I sourced them from the dealer way back when. I never had any come loose but I did re-torque them periodically.

Never used it, but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

[napa68]

but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.

[SupremeDeluxe]

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.

That tool is a novelty item. You need the lead hammer and enthusiasm.

As an aside, modern Porsche center-lock wheels are a similar design and the torque spec is 440 lb-ft. A plastic-lined tool with a breaker bar/cheater pipe config isn't getting anywhere near.

[TimG]

A friend had a stuck spinner and purchased the "tool" to remove it. It wouldn't help. I just got the big lead hammer and wacked it until it came off without issue.

[napa68]

I'm killing some time today, as a sore back is keeping me out of action. The sun is out, and thought a few pics were in order.....

https://i.imgur.com/J0IPvRrh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j8zO4ASh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KCUwNpNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1jBzI1qh.jpg

[SupremeDeluxe]

White interiors are just magic.

[napa68]

Yesterday I dove into the wonky master cylinder. The back boot was loaded with brake fluid. You could say I found the smoking gun. On the bright side, it is the original unit to the car. GM sourced the master's from Bendix originally. This one being dated the 342 day (Bendix did not cast the year into the casting) which equates to December 8th of 1965. Right in line for a January built car.
https://i.imgur.com/LsL8Y1Hh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sin3jCPh.jpg


I found a decent amount of corrosion on the bottom of the cylinder back by the rear seal. I honed the hell out of it, but it will need to be sleeved. I have new master on the way, so I can get the car back on the road. I'm honestly impressed the car made it this far with it's original master. At some point, I'll get it reinstalled. Spring is in the air here in the northwoods of Wisconsin:biggthumpup:

[Keith Seymore]

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby.

I've been a fan of knockoffs for as long as I can remember - and this is the first time I've given any thought to how they are held on!

K

[cheveslakr]

Any thoughts of where you're having it rebuilt Tim? Just went through this, and just put mine on the shelf and bought a new master. I switched to Dot 5 because of the leak I saw at the rear, and I'm paranoid of getting Dot 4 on my paint. I was a step ahead though, in having all new lines and drained calipers.

[napa68]

Any thoughts of where you're having it rebuilt Tim? Just went through this, and just put mine on the shelf and bought a new master. I switched to Dot 5 because of the leak I saw at the rear, and I'm paranoid of getting Dot 4 on my paint. I was a step ahead though, in having all new lines and drained calipers.

I sent this out to White Post Restorations. I have used them several times in the past and have been happy with the results.

https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/

[60sStuff]

White Post is who I have used for decades.

I always instruct them to preserve the Original finish that I send them and Do Not paint.

[napa68]

In an effort to keep my mind busy while I am waiting on parts for a customer car, I decided to have a peek into the T.I. amplifier. As you can see, it had the original transistorized board in it. I keep a solid state board in stock, as these tend to go south with no notice (that occurred on my injected 65). I also had a back up T.I. box, so I did the install in that. I'll keep the old transistorized unit as a spare. It's a pretty straight forward installation. Of course my dumb ass neglected to take a picture of the new board, so all you are getting is a file photo:smirk: I could be kidding myself, but the car seems to idle a little smoother with the solid state board in it. Only one of the bolts for the T.I. box was original, so I'll source the correct fasteners when I run across them.

https://i.imgur.com/YY6hmznh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c3A8ctbh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hkeS59Gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2K7LwaKh.jpg

I had a new master cylinder arrive yesterday, so I could enjoy the car while White Post is sleeving the original. So much for being proactive........that one leaks at the rear, and is sucking air when bench bleeding. I guess it's a sign I should slow down and just wait for my original to come back. :dunno:

[Too Many Projects]

Well, that sucks...;) hope that "new" one has a warranty and you can send it back for a full refund.

[napa68]

Well, that sucks...;) hope that "new" one has a warranty and you can send it back for a full refund.

Yep. It's already on it's way back. A Delco too boot:thumbsdown:

[napa68]

The master cylinder came back from White Post today, so I wasted no time getting that bled and installed. My goal of looking like nothing happened was achieved. I must admit, I was a bit disappointed with the experience. Originally, I was told 2-3 weeks when I shipped it in. I shipped it right away. That turned into 4-6 weeks after it arrived. Unless of course, I wanted to pay a 25% expedited fee. Given my scenario with a bad replacement M/C, the fee was the lesser of evil's. I kind of went over the edge with the $40 shipping and handling for regular ground UPS. Comparatively, it cost me $13 to ship it out there. I don't begrudge anyone of making a profit, and certainly value quality work. The experience though left me with a bit of a poor taste. I'll step off of the soap box now. Just thought I'd share........

So, I'm all set to hit the road. Naturally, I'm rewarded with a forecast containing 2-4" of snow tonight.
https://i.imgur.com/lBMKl6Wh.jpg

[Z282NV]

Looking marvelous Tim. Darn snow, we escaped with just rain showers up here on the North shore of Lake Superior but with the ground still frozen it's has no where to go. Slippery as hell.

[napa68]

The original positive battery cable looked like a beaver chewed on it. I found a nice set of original battery cables from a member over on Corvette Forum. I got that installed this morning.....
https://i.imgur.com/4PQVBdoh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vfkh6Mnh.jpg

[67since67]

Looking marvelous Tim. Darn snow, we escaped with just rain showers up here on the North shore of Lake Superior but with the ground still frozen it's has no where to go. Slippery as hell.

North shore??...are you in Thunderbay??

[Z282NV]

North shore??...are you in Thunderbay??

Yes Sir!

[67since67]

I have friends there, been there many times. The Fort William Gardens is one of my favorite old hockey barns! Do you know the Addouno family??

Sorry for the hyjack Tim...

[Z282NV]

I have friends there, been there many times. The Fort William Gardens is one of my favorite old hockey barns! Do you know the Addouno family??

Sorry for the hyjack Tim...

PM sent.

Yes sorry Tim for the sidetracking.

[napa68]

PM sent.

Yes sorry Tim for the sidetracking.

I have friends there, been there many times. The Fort William Gardens is one of my favorite old hockey barns! Do you know the Addouno family??

Sorry for the hyjack Tim...

No worries guys

[MosportGreen66]

The master cylinder came back from White Post today, so I wasted no time getting that bled and installed. My goal of looking like nothing happened was achieved. I must admit, I was a bit disappointed with the experience. Originally, I was told 2-3 weeks when I shipped it in. I shipped it right away. That turned into 4-6 weeks after it arrived. Unless of course, I wanted to pay a 25% expedited fee. Given my scenario with a bad replacement M/C, the fee was the lesser of evil's. I kind of went over the edge with the $40 shipping and handling for regular ground UPS. Comparatively, it cost me $13 to ship it out there. I don't begrudge anyone of making a profit, and certainly value quality work. The experience though left me with a bit of a poor taste. I'll step off of the soap box now. Just thought I'd share........

So, I'm all set to hit the road. Naturally, I'm rewarded with a forecast containing 2-4" of snow tonight.
https://i.imgur.com/lBMKl6Wh.jpg

We had a similar experience with the master on our former '67 L36 Convertible and won't be going back to White Post because of it. Oh and our master did not work... twice.

[67since67]

As an alternative, I've received great service from Karp's Power Brake in Chino CA, both on masters and wheel cylinders.
IIRC, Karps uses stainless sleeves while WP uses brass??
WP has done one master for me that worked out well.
FWIW - Bill W

[napa68]

Bill S (olredalert) hooked me up with this virgin US Royal Laredo spare for the car. While the car has a good spare, now it has one that is gooder:grin:

[TimG]

That is a beauty. Laredos are the best.

[67since67]

That's a great home for a great tire!

[olredalert]

[QUOTE=olredalert;1671800]----Great! As usual on this great sight, this transaction between Tim and I went so smoothly. It was a pleasure finding a great home for this unbelievable spare. That's all I hoped for when I saw it at B. Gold. So hard to find any U.S.Royal 66 only whitewall in any condition. Can't wait to see the judges eyeballs when this spare tire is displayed!....Bill S

[napa68]

Just a little update, with nothing more than a "technical experience". As I have been driving the 66 as of late, I had noticed the car had become a little more temperamental to start. I had a symptom where when the car was warm, the ignition would only fire when the switch was turned to run (as opposed to firing while cranking in the start position). That symptom increased little by little. Yesterday afternoon, I cold started the car, and the problem persisted. The ground is VERY good on the T.I. amp. Previously, I had checked my voltages as the coil, was well as looking for any resistance on the ground side of the T.I. amp. All were within spec.

I remember a while back, I had read some posts over on Corvette Forum where some of the others had complained about the same symptom, and blamed it on the brand of circuit board I installed in the T.I. amp.

Having nothing else to do today as a result of the weather, I thought I'd dive in. I was being a little lazy, and just reinstalled the original T.I. amp that was in the car when I received it. The car now cold started and hot starts just like it should......while cranking.

Most of the GM cars did not utilize the T.I. ignition as widely as Corvette's. Some of you though, have cars with this buggy whip ignition system. I just thought I'd post the experience for technical reference down the road for Yenko.net.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend. I myself now feel I've earned a cold beer:cool2:

[napa68]

Over the weekend of Bloomington Gold, I was able to connect with a friend of mine who made me a smoking deal on 2 gallons of lacquer. These were tinted to a verified original Nassau Blue car. Not that I plan on restoring this car, but thought it would be smart to capitalize on the opportunity. In the event I change my mind, have an ooops, or sell the car to someone who would restore it........ then it's here

https://i.imgur.com/J59Dg20h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2dDBr5Mh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pBq8zKZh.jpg

[Z282NV]

Over the weekend of Bloomington Gold, I was able to connect with a friend of mine who made me a smoking deal on 2 gallons of lacquer. These were tinted to a verified original Nassau Blue car. Not that I plan on restoring this car, but thought it would be smart to capitalize on the opportunity. In the event I change my mind, have an ooops, or sell the car to someone who would restore it........ then it's here


You just never know if your are going to need it or not. Love the car just the way it is.

[napa68]

While waiting for a couple of new acquisitions to get delivered, I had some time to chase an item of concern on the 66. The engine had a detectable vibration above 4000 rpm. Not bad, but know it could be better. Historically, this car did have at least one clutch installed. I've had clutch / flywheel combinations that were out of balance exhibit this same trait, so I pulled the trans and clutch this week. My clutch of choice in recent years has been the McLeod Street Level Kit. They just do not chatter. I send the flywheel out to be machined and have pressure plate to be balanced together. The flywheel is the original dated unit, and had never been machined before. 2 days later, I got everything back and was pleased to find some drill marks to balance the flywheel, albeit not very much:biggthumpup:

https://i.imgur.com/zMGNjSqh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nleoNzSh.jpg

While waiting for the balancing act:smile:, I got all the fasteners and parts cleaned up for reassembly. This particular pressure plate required some weight. Sometimes they are neutral, others require some drilling along the flange to lighten it up. I could probably say that is just the current state of quality today.

https://i.imgur.com/QNc6AjJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/niVX7Ibh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7s0ZtnSh.jpg

I may show some bias here, but I think the 64-67 Corvette shifter is one of the best, OE or aftermarket. When these shifters are right, they just plain work. I cleaned all of the old grease out of the shifter, regreased it, and mocked it up on the trans. The OE Corvette shifter starting in 65 has and adjustment for a shorter throw. So, I adjusted everything on the bench.

https://i.imgur.com/Swp8Hx6h.jpg

I use a complete input shaft, as it gives me a bit more leverage when sneaking up in the pressure plate torque. I am of the opinion it can get a better feel for the disc alignment. The trans just drops in when I do that.

https://i.imgur.com/MRUr14Qh.jpg

My vibration is GREATLY diminished. Next, address the cooling system. The temp just continues to creep up to about 230 degrees now that we have summer temps. The radiator will need some love, so that is next on the docket.

[Too Many Projects]

And it just keeps on gettin' better...:grin: I only use an old input shaft for clutch install too. Those plastic plugs can be a PITA to get right. I have one for M22 also.
I'm trying hard to not like this car too much, like the L88 Camaro, but everytime I see that White interior with the Blue, I have to look away. :no: It's like trying to resist forbidden fruit.

[olredalert]

----Short throw when done on the bench is a really great shift! I did my 1st Corvette (66 427/425) after I read the Corvette news issue article. As a young punk I waded thru that adjustment while in the car. Back then it was way above my paygrade, but I managed and felt like the king of the world when I could actually go thru the gears cleanly!.....Bill S