L88 cam in L78?

[Seattle Sam]

I'm planning on pulling the engine out of my '70 L78 Camaro this winter, tearing it down and building it back up to original spec (cc'd heads, 11-1 pistons, balanced and "blueprinted").
I am thinking of installing an L88 spec cam, which has more lift and I believe more duration than the original L72/L78 spec cam, simply because I am a fan of "more power". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

Do you think I will see any power gains from this cam change, since I am running cast iron exhaust manifolds? What if I port-match and extrude-hone the exhaust manifolds, would the engine benefit from it? What about port-matching the intake to the heads?
What if I decide to port the heads, would that make the engine "non-original"? (I know it would not be pure stock anymore, but that's not my question).

On the flip side, what would be hurt by going to the big cam?

I would like this motor to make a healthy amount of power, but I don't want to throw money away on changes that have no benefit..

Please share your thoughts and opinions!

Thanks,
-Sam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[budnate]

Sam , best to give the motor to me and install a 307 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif

give me a buzz when you get a second.

Bud

[Chevy454]

[ QUOTE ]
Do you think I will see any power gains from this cam change, since I am running cast iron exhaust manifolds?

[/ QUOTE ]

I know most people won't believe this, but you'll actually be HURTING power by running the L-88 cam. The L-78/L-72 cam is a pretty healthy cam in it's own right, and is the ONLY way to go with manifolds. Don't believe me, call Crane Cams. Pete preached and preached at me about how good of a unit the "143" cam was, but I had to see for myself. One call to Crane changed my mind.

It's got plenty of duration and lift to work with manifolds. Here's a tip that most people overlook: if you do a true blueprint and cc the heads to where they need to be (106cc) and get a set of pistons with the correct dome (read: not TRW replacements), and you get some compression in that puppy, then RETARD THE CAM 6 degrees. Do a search for "compression mapping" on this forum and you'll see why. Plus, it's ground 6 degrees advanced from the factory, so you're basically putting it back to straight up.

Anyway, I've run across a lot of articles in SS&DI and old racer mags where several of the L-88 guys ran the L-72 cam. In Pete's Pure Stock ZL-1 (same cam?) he has to run a HUGE amount of lash (around .035") to get any kind of vacuum (like 5") and he still has to do a little dance to get staged.

Pick up the phone, call your local Chevy dealer, order it, and pick it up the next day. A cam/lifter kit is around $130 if you get it at cost, but retails around $150. Break it in on the outer springs and then you're good to go.

Pete and Lerum, please feel free to chime in and confirm/deny anything I've posted...

[Schonyenko2]

Not Pete, or Lerum, but I agree with Rob. An L88 cam is not a user friendly piece for the street. Schonye

[Chevy454]

Well, I guess you'll do! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif

[COPO PETE]

What Rob said is right on the money. L72 cam, reatrded is great... and it's even funner telling people your running the original cam from GM. They won't beleive you!!!! Your breaks with the L88 cam are marginal at best. Trust me, I've run both!
Peter

[MotownMadman]

We have to remember that the enginneers at GM spent millions figuring all this stuff out, over and above their mathematical geeky equations they went through a great amount of money, trial, and error before coming up with the right combination. Other then tuning for the track it would be a project to out do the enginneers, the only way that is possible is to tune and do away with whatever they HAD to install to make the engines less obnoxious for the street, namely giving the car more exhaust flow. Over the years I have seen a great deal of over camming, over carbing, and neglect in the flow department. HP is made in proper tuned exhaust, no matter how much power your engine is making it doesnt do any good if it remains in the engine holding itself back. The L88 was always pushing crossing the line as far as being a practical street engine, get caught in traffic for a few hours on a hot day and it becomes easy to see why this entire engine, cam, compression, etc, etc, was just a bit overdone for a daily driver. Had it not been for the ordering paperwork showing the 435HP engine as having five more HP, a great deal more of the L88 engines with it's honest over 500HP would have made it to the street and probebly ruined the whole project for Chevrolet.
Motown /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

[Kim_Howie]

I work on a STOCK B/S Nova which has to run the STOCK spec> from the factory and we dyno 650 H.P. this is with the same STOCK 143 Cam Kim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif

[Jeff H]

I had a 67 Camaro with a 454 that had the L88 cam in it and it was horrible to deal with. Especially with the stock exhaust manifolds.

[SMGCO]

Both ( L88 & l72 cams ) are very outdated and lazy compared to current cams. If you want to rebuild your motor to exact factory specs then purchase a blueprint series factory replacement cam from crane or comp. If your want to get a lot more performance and not go with a roller consider another modern grind from someone like Comp Cams. ( They have a section in their catalog titled something like " Modern Muscle " that will give you an extended power band and the same or better sound.

Another way is to rebuild your original engine to exact factory specs and put it onan engine stand in your garage for safe keeping. Then build yourself another engine to put in the car which can look stock on the outside ( sleeper ) or youcan go the other route with a modern style single plane etc.

[Chevy454]

Not to be argumentative, but...

I had this very discussion with both Crane and Comp. Know what they told me? Stick with the "143". The guy at Comp told me he *might* up the lift to around .530", but that it had plenty of duration. This was after I filled out both companies' forms for a blueprinted L-72 running through manifolds and faxed them back. They both said it had PLENTY of duration (.316"/.302" advertised, and .240"/.240" @ .050"), and Comp said the only thing they *might* do is bump the lift to .530". Comp's "Magnum Muscle" cams have almost the exact same duration (242/250), but have quite a bit more lift and a tighter LSA (110 vs. 114), which is gonna bring a pretty hefty lope with it. Any more duration/lift gets into their "drag race" section of cams, with power bands starting at 3500, and you know what that's gonna do to your drivability.

You have to remember, though, that the exhaust manifolds change the entire equation, and require a little different mode of thinking. They will only flow so much. And, like I said above, I'm not being argumentative, just passing on what I've had to learn the hard way (but I'm not alone!). Like Steve said, all of the cam manufacturers can offer you a respectible cam, but I'd just about bet that when it gets down to "brass tacks" that you'll be back where you started: good 'ole "143".

In a slight bit of irony, I was reading the tech section of SS&DI and someone asked about changing cams in a '66 L-72, and the reply was to stick with the "143" cam. They also ended with these words of wisdom: "an engine will run better with too little a cam than it will with too much". Just curious...what kind of power you looking to get out of this L-78?

[Salvatore]

Sam, I remember those cars running mid 11's with headers and a pair of 9' slicks back in the 70's. I don't feel that any porting or anything of that nature hurts originality. All parts and numbers will still be correct. If you can find an NOS camshaft of the 375hp variety than I would use it. They are better than todays GM stock ground cams. They just where! Too much cam with little else wouldn't make it run any better. It is the combo that you need. Kim is correct about the stock specs of their B/S Nova, the lift has to be the same BUT..... ask him about the duration. Also the Schubeck lifters help. If you build your camaro to basically stock 1970 specs with a little clean up of the distributor add a set of headers and traction bars with 9" tires ,some good gas, at least a 4:10 rear that car will probably run 11.80's with practice. That to me would really be considered stock.Remember, No matter what these guys tell you here, small tires and the smog equipment was off the car before the first tank of gas was empty. No body kept that stuff on! Good luck! I would think by basically using Rob's set up and adding headers and slicks you would be right there. Good luck! Sam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[JLerum]

Sam,

Let me say that almost everything that I can think of has all ready been said except this!

The L-88 cam is marginal at best in a 427 in the street and you're running 31 cubic inches less.

The cam was designed for headers.....no doubt about it! Wayne Nelsons L-88 corvette that just went 11.99 at Stanton 2 weeks ago dynoed the motor at 571 hp at 6700RPM with headers.

With the manifolds it pulled down 505 hp @5800 RPM with 480+ lbs. Wayne shifts at 6100 RPM because he is going slower and wasting motor if he goes more with the manifolds.

Are you ready to have the neatest sounding car but get beat by an average Joe because it wont run strong except the last 2000RPM before redline? What you have read on the above posts are the truth. Do you want to go fast or have a neat sounding car?

Jim /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

As far as running some of the really fast ramp lobed cams, the valve train must be in good working order. Lots of spring pressure must be used to keep the valve train stable at high RPM. Find a good machinist if you go that way.

[Chevy454]

Jim:

Any idea what Wayne's car weighs? Or what his best MPH was?

[Seattle Sam]

Thanks for all the responses, I would pity the fool that puts an L88 cam into a 396 with cast iron exhaust! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif

At least, I will be sticking with the 143 cam. My goal is to blueprint the motor when I pull it out, and do a few things to improve air flow (like port matching the manifolds). I plan to drive this car on the street a lot, but I would also like to see 12's on bias-ply tires with it..

Seriously, I started looking at the specs as listed in the Chevrolet by the numbers book, and the L88 and ZL1 have tons more duration than the L72/L78 cam, as well as more lift.

Lift and duration, per Chevrolet by the numbers 1965-69 These must be at 0.000" lift..

L72/78 cam, pn 3863143, lift .520 intake and exhaust, duration 316 degrees intake 302 degrees exhaust.
L88 cam, pn 3928909, lift .562 intake, .584 exhaust, duration 354 degr intake, 360 degr exhaust
ZL1 cam, pn 3959180, lift .579 intake, .620 exhaust, duration 354 degr intake, 360 degr exhaust

I do have a question about the duration of the 143 cam, Chev by the numbers lists duration (from .000 lift I assume) as 316 / 302, the aftermarket cam sellers list their "143" cams as having 240 deg of duration for both intake and exhaust(I assume this time at .050" lift). Does this mean that the 'ramp" in the factory cam for the exhaust side is steeper than the intake side? What do you think the intended effect was for this steeper ramp?

The other two (bigger) cams have more lift and more duration for exhaust over intake (at least at the baseline), what is the benefit of this configuration?

I think I have read that at high RPMs the open exhaust valve can create a low pressure zone within the cylinder, helping to draw in the intake charge before the piston starts the down stroke - is that it?

Thanks again,
-Sam

[JoeG]

You could lighten up your valve train with stainless valves and push rods.Or you could put the larger valves of the L-89 in your cast iron heads.--- JoeG----good choice 143 cam.for your application.

[JLerum]

Waynes car weighs 3600lbs with driver. The car should be 160lbs lighter but because of the special drive shaft loops that he uses to protect the car their is the weight penilty.

His best MPH was 119.02! His reproduction cam is if I remember right is 6 degrees and 8 degrees less duration on the intake and the exhaust from the chevy grind and yes he is running the 12.5 compression.

JIM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[JLerum]

Sam;

The reason you find more duration on the exhaust side of the cams are because only until recently cylinder heads big restrictions were the exhaust port. Chevy has a really good one for a stock head compaired to the other manufacturers. On a flow bench they would flow about 70% of the intake which for their time of design was really good. You will find that alot of the after market manufacturers are around 80%. To compensate for the lesser design you would hold the exhaust valve open longer to help it out. The kicker again is the longer you hold the valves open the more compression that is required to aid in cylinder filling. Keep in mind we are talking about a cam made for all out performance for the L-88 and ZL-1 cars. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

If you look at Buick stage 1 motors their exhaust is an extra 10 or 12 degrees. The 440-6 pak motors from Mopar also have an extra 10 degrees designed in. These are just a couple off the top of my head that I know of that com from the factory with a cam to aid the exhaust port.

JIM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/headbang.gif

Yes...........those cam numbers are off the lobe not at .050 which seems to be the standard today.

[COPO PETE]

With all due respect for Waynes car, the cam is is running is a made up cam. We really don't know much about it. If he had a GM L88 cam in it, it would peek around 6800 rpm or more with his manifolds. I shift a 7000 rpm and go through the end at around 7200 with my lesser manifolds. If I shift at a lesser rpm, the car slows down a lot. His lobe separation and ramp speeds must be quite different than a GM L88 shaft. He has obviously done his homework, but it would be real interesting to see what the car does with the GM shaft!
Peter

[Casey Marks]

[ QUOTE ]
...The car should be 160lbs lighter but because of the special drive shaft loops that he uses to protect the car their is the weight penilty....

[/ QUOTE ]

WHAT ? 160#'s in driveshaft loops ? The HEAVIEST loop that I have ever made was 11 lbs. That was a 5" diameter loop, with 1/4" thick plate, and gussets. What is he doing, running the shafts thru black pipe ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[JLerum]

Casey,


Because the car has independent rear suspension it is some what complex. He has 3 drave shaft loops. 1 for the drive shaft and 1 for each axle shaft(mini drive shafts). Than he has some kind of support on each side that would keep the tire (wheel assemble) from colapsing just falling over if their was a failure of the wheel bracing. When I asked how much it all weighs he said about 160 lbs.

Pete,

I saw the cam card and I thought I remembered 112 lobe seperation. The lifts were the same and the duration as noted above. I know that it was not a rapid lift cam by the lash that was recommended, .026 intake and .028 exhaust. The cam came from Bullet cams.

JIM

[Fhakya]

What!? Wow, this I need to see pictures of. What indep. rear was employed?

[Chevy454]

Since it's Pure Stock, I'm gonna guess it's the stock '68 rear. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[John Brown]

Sam,

Just to reinforce Rob, Pete, and Jim's explanations of the effects of cam timing, lift and duration vs. streetability, let me say there are times when at work I have too much time on my hands (like today). I also have Desktop Dyno and Desktop Dragstrip. A couple of years ago I ran computer simulations of a friends car combination using factory big block cams and found that the less radical cams would make more usable power and give better E.T.s. After taking lots of grief from his "engine guru", he finally tried the lowly 375 horse 396 factory cam. Result, more power, lower E.T. and plenty of vacuum to run the power brakes. So if you have access, build your combination on the computer first, then buy the parts. You won't be dissapointed.

[JoeG]

Hello John,
Is that the DESK TOP DRAG & DYNO 2000 program ?---How do you like it?----------JoeG

[John Brown]

Yes, 2000. It's a good tool, not 100% accurate predicting E.T.s since we race on Repo Polys, but it does show trends. Makes it easier to see which direction to go on changes. I understand there are newer versions that are more accurate, but we are only looking for trends for predicting results.

[JoeG]

Thanks John--I just wanted to tinker with some different engine modifications and set up a cyber track car.--always wanted to pick it up ,just keep putting it off for one reason or another-----JoeG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[GMH454]

Sam lots of good advice here. Don't use the L88.
Drove a A/Prod Vette car around a track once. Memorable experience. Car weighed 2700lbs blueprinted crate L-88 1974 vintage (cost around $540 for the short block in 1974 )Holley 850 factory intake 074 alloy heads, sewer sized side pipes and big 10" racing wheels and tyres.
Going around the track under 4000 rpm was very disappointing. Start pulling in the hi 5000s and all hell broke loose.
Very peaky. NO torque down low.
At around 5400 rpm it would break the tires loose in 3rd gear at around 120 mph.
A great racing legend best left on race tracks
Have fun.

[Born30YrsLate]

I'm still trying to figure out all this camshaft stuff...the question I have at this point is that the powerband for the 396/375 cam is 4000 rpm (2500-6500) but the powerband on the L88 cam is 2600 rpm (4400-7000)...what makes the powerband so short in the L88 cam? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Also - the next motor that I build is going to be an L88...I will be using the 074 heads and 198 intake as well as all the other correct parts for this motor, now after reading about the L88 cam I'm thinking that I don't want to use factory cam!.....What is a good cam that I can use instead of the factory L88 cam for a good powerband up to 7000 rpm?....this car will be driven on the street mostly and that won't be very often and maybe a couple passes at the track. This motor is coming with the car I'm buying which is why I'm building this L88 and I'm looking to get at least 525 peak hp between 6500 and 7000 rpm out of it.
As a side note the motor will be backed up by an M22 and 4.56 posi and will have either 255/60R15 or 275/60R15 rear tires if that helps any?...... As always everyone's input is greatly appreciated...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[Chevy454]

Are you gonna run headers, Fred? Back in the day the hot ticket was to run the 143 cam (L-78/L-72) in the L-88s. 525hp shouldn't be too tough for an L-88.

[Born30YrsLate]

Rob - yup I'll be running headers that go into mid year corvette side pipes with the capability of running the headers open.
Another quick question - will the L78/L72 cam perform just as well as let's say a Comp Cams Magnum mechanical camshaft which has the same powerband range? I noticed that that Comp Cam has a significantly higher lift for the same rpm range?
Thanks again....... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[Chevy454]

Fred:

Some quick guestions on the engine combo. What intake/carb are you gonna run (L-88 stuff?)? And this car will mainly be a street car, with a trip to the track once in a while?

The thing with the magnum muscle cam is there is just a tad more duration (242 vs. 250) on the exhaust side, but is identical on the intake, but it's got a TON more lift and a LOT tighter LSA (110). That LSA worries me, as that's a borderline race car spec. That means it's gonna have a choppy idle, and may have a vacuum problem. But, I'd give Comp a call and ask. Also something to consider is the more RPM you wanna run, the better your valvetrain has to be, and the more wear and tear on the engine. Just food for thought.

[JoeG]

Born30YRSLate, Just some seat of the pants info that was tried aways back,
With the 143 cam you get very good street response with a 456/410 of course the steeper the gear the better the low end response with the 143 cam. The higher the lift and close LSA ,you are going to have to stay with 456/488 to give you that acceptable low end response.Bottomline as everyone has more or less agreed the 143 is an excellent compromise between street and strip.Listen to what the fellas are saying you won't be dissappointed,-----if you are only going to make an occasional trip to the track and mainly street drive it. .Just some input,-----JoeG /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[VintageMusclecar]

If I may chime in;

FWIW, the 2 smallest solid grinds Crane makes work extremely well on mild BBC applications.

P/N: 133841
3000-6500 rpm
238*-248* @ .050
304*-314* adv. dur
114* LSA
.544-.567 lift (gross)
.022-.022 lash

P/N: 134781
3800-7000 rpm
248*-258* @ .050
314*-324* adv. dur.
110* LSA
.567-.590 lift (gross)
.022-.022 lash

The first of these 2 cams provides a nice flat power curve and a fairly mild idle. The 2nd cam is a bit "peaky" with a noticeable midrange charge, and a somewhat more noticeable idle.

I ran cam #2 in a well-worn LS6 "clone" motor (it did have a Dart intake and 2" Hooker headers) in my `67 Chevelle years ago, and it's 1 of the best street/strip cams I've ever used. Blowing through a "way-too-small" 2 1/2" exhaust, with only a 2500 converter and 4.10 gears, this was an easy low-12-high-11 second combination. In a 396 with OEM manifolds, I'd opt for the smaller cam.

Re: The advertised rpm ranges Crane recommends... I've found that these cams often come in sooner than Crane advises; perhaps this is an attempt on Crane's part to keep people from "over-camming" their engines, I don't know.

Just throwing my .02 in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

Eric

[Born30YrsLate]

Rob - the car will have the 198 L-88 intake and a Holley 950 cfm 3-barrel. Because of the kind of car the motor will be going in to, I feel it needs to be feared/respected on the street as well as the track. The car will be driven no more than a couple times during the year....local shows and local cruises.
I appreciate everyones input so far....... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

JoeG - what size cam do you have in your 396 Phase III Chevelle?...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[JoeG]

Born30YrsLate,
Everybody is right with these different cam combinations, it just depends on how much cam you are willing to live with on the street. I had installed a PHASE III cam from Motion 535/555 lift, and the extra lift with the open plenum and three bbl really came alive mid -range ,kept it in for about a year. I went back to the 143 because with the auto there was less creep and loping in traffic.It sounds like you want to step up a little with your cam selection,go ahead ,with the setup your talking about your engine would welcome the extra air., you can always change, at least you can say you tried it--Just my opinion--JoeG

[Chevy454]

Some things to consider...

The L-88 intake is gonna be a single plane (open plenum), as opposed to the 163 dual plane of the L-78/L-72. The open plenum is geared towards the upper RPM range, and is gonna hurt anything geared towards the low end or lower-mid range. Also, I'm gonna *guess* the 950 is a double pumper? If so, it's not exactly the optimum street carb...I myself favor a vacuum secondary carb. The 4.56 gears will help keep the revs up for the big intake/carb combo, so the rest of the combo is geared towards revs. That means you'd better have a good valvetrain, and you're almost gonna have to have a fairly healthy cam to make best use of the other components. Now, being in a relatively light car and being a 4-speed will help.

Like everyone has stated, the 143 or something equivalent is gonna be better for the street and will have vacuum, but as you start edging towards the L-88 range of cams drivability and vacuum become concerns. And, some people can tolerate more/less than others. But, you may need to turn some RPM's to fully use the intake/carb combo. Wayne's pure stock L-88 Corvette made 571hp with a custom grind. Shoot him an email and see what cam and vacuum he's got: nelson66@REMOVE_ME_ecenet.com

Now, my recommendation. The rule of thumb on carbs and cams is that it's better to go too small as opposed to too big. I think you'd be fine to go with the 143 cam, and it would do what you want. But, a call to Comp and Crane would be your best bet, if nothing more than to get another opinion. I'm gonna guess Comp will steer you towards the Muscle Magnum cam, but be sure and ask about idle and vacuum quality.

[GMH454]

Am rebuilding the driveline of a local A/Mod car that ran LS7 074 alloy head BBC back in 1974. Car was 3700lbs usually with 4.56 (12 Bolt also ran a Hone OD ) Car track raced with dual 660s but street raced ( he was a BAAAD boy )with Weiand intake and a 780 vac.
Reason was that it produced better torque out of the hole, and with 3700 lbs it was a factor.
850DPs were made for the Vette A Prod wars with the Cobras.
Great carb but originally designed for the race track (read one with corners )
There is a school of thought, that the the bigger the carb, the better the carb, but ain't always so.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[JoeG]

Something also to consider--The L /88 manifold is completely gutted open. The edelbrock C-427x,has only a section cut out of the plenum divider,for the 3bbl sec throttle plate, giving it a little better low end response.I think you got what you wanted from everyone input---O.K. Flip a coin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif--If you call the cam doctors like to hear what they say.----JoeG.

I,m just going to add to GMH454,---He's right the 3bbl in the beginning was not a street friendly carb, but Edelbrock did make it more streetable thru some modifications and I did have to play with mine a bit to get it to work properly.--To make the car more streetable,after awhile I changed to a Tarantula man .and a 3310 Holley.The car had some manners then.Whatever you decide I would like to see photos if possible /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif---JoeG

[Chevy454]

Milling the divider down a tad on the 163 intake is supposed to be the hot ticket. Kind of a "best of both worlds" scenario.

[JoeG]

Correct /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[Pantera]

You will hate the L-88 cam. My LS6 on the street is dangerious when you get up to 5G in third it will try to go sideways with N-50's. You will kill clutches if you get caught in traffic for a short while. With the right mufflers and Idle set at the right speed it willsound good and run good. More cam is just too much maintance. I have raced a small block in SCCA B/P and all my competion would run these wild cams and unless we were on a huge track with very long straits I could run all over them. The first corner we went through I caught them and passed them. They could only pull me 2 or 3 car lengths down the straights. I had more low end power off the corners and I didn't break the valvetrain but once. I ran a chev Offroad flat tappet cam that was almost 1/2" lift. They had roller cams to get the lift they wanted. I hold the track record at Hallett Ok with this setup. All my competion broke the valve train regulary and let me win. They over engineered their cars and reliabality is the key to keeping a car alive to make it home. To finish first you have to first finish.

How would you feel about dropping a valve through your pistons and destroying your motor?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gif

[Born30YrsLate]

I'm still struggling between my "young self" where being able to rev the hell out of stuff makes me smile and what years of experience has taught you guys.....I do say that you guys are doing a very good job in getting me away from over doing my motor....I guess I'm the type of person that if I say I have a L-88 motor I want it to have all the parts to be one....I will be talking with a couple cam companies to get their input...I will keep you guys posted ---the motor will also be dyno tuned and have the distributor recurved for my specific set up....I think you guys will like where this is going... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif...
Thanks again....../ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[JLerum]

If you go after market try to find someone that really knows the cams from an engineering point of view. John Partrigde from Bullet Cams does a wonderful job. I have yet to hear something bad.

Bullet cams is the old Lunati group that left Lunati when Holley bought out the company. If you've been keeping an ear to the drag racing seen they have done very well. I know the cam card of Wayne's L-88 vette is a Bullet cam. Just a thought! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/scholar.gif

JIM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif