67 Z small journal crank

[69RSZ]

looking for the small journal steel crank for a 67MO block.
Also need pink rods and wristpins or whatever you have to complete a shortblock.

[Rixls6]

I have a few small block cranks here I can check for you. Is there a casting number that I should look for?
Rick

[Salvatore]

[ QUOTE ]
looking for the small journal steel crank for a 67MO block.
Also need pink rods and wristpins or whatever you have to complete a shortblock.

[/ QUOTE ] A clean steel 283 crank will do the trick. A little easier to obtain and a little cheaper. Pretty much the same. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[Jeff H]

Ok Ron, so which 67 Z28 did you end up buying? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
Ok Ron, so which 67 Z28 did you end up buying? http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Jeff,I got my old Z back! It was deliverd tues.Its been 20 yrs and the paint still looks the same except for a few stone chips in front.Now the fun begins,looking for some parts to complete a spare 302 block that was given with the purchase.im going to clean it up a bit,engine compartment needs attention and drivetrain needs detailing before the big 40th anniversary at carlisle.So im looking for some parts to clean her up a little. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Jeff H]

I figured you would wear him down eventually. That's cool you got back your old 67 Z28! Car still looks pretty sweet from the pictures you sent.

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
I figured you would wear him down eventually. That's cool you got back your old 67 Z28! Car still looks pretty sweet from the pictures you sent.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks jeff,im takeing the engine out tomorrow,got it ready to pull today and should be easy to do.looking foreward to getting it looking good!

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
I have a few small block cranks here I can check for you. Is there a casting number that I should look for?
Rick

[/ QUOTE ]
Rick im looking for a small journal steel crank,part #3917265.lmk thanks Ron

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
I figured you would wear him down eventually. That's cool you got back your old 67 Z28! Car still looks pretty sweet from the pictures you sent.

[/ QUOTE ]here is a pic,wouldnt be nice not to share some pics with everyone
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/P9290012.jpg

[69RSZ]

another,other side.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/P9290011.jpg

[69RSZ]

engine,check out the overflow bottle http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/P9290006.jpg

[69RSZ]

This car is missing a few parts that I would like to locate,A correct date coded alt part#1100693 37 amps, pre 03B build date of car.deep groove power steering pulley cast iron part# 3873847.also both stock exhaust manifolds for a 67 Z/28.Thanks for any help.Ron

[Zedder]

Looks good Ron. Congrats! I could hear the excitement in your voice the other night when you called me http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif You need an 822 (last 3 digits of the casting number) crank for the car.

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
Looks good Ron. Congrats! I could hear the excitement in your voice the other night when you called me http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif You need an 822 (last 3 digits of the casting number) crank for the car.

[/ QUOTE ]Thanks Mark,cant wait to get it detailed.do you have any parts?lmk thanks Ron

[Zedder]

Sorry Ron, nothing extra.

[1967Z28]

The cranks I have seen come out of the 3917265 box have all been cast with "6764" on them, not "822". These had the tufftride coating on them.

-Jon

[Zedder]

Just to be clear, the "6764" crank appears to be a later casting number and is found in over the counter parts and CE blocks from what I can tell. The 3 original 302's that I have opened up all had the "822" casting number including my current July built 302. I don't know if the "6764" ever made it into an original 302 delivered in a car, but I would use either if it were my car.

[Denis]

nice car.

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
Sorry Ron, nothing extra.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks Mark http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[Salvatore]

Use the steel 283 crank. Besides tufftride wears off in time on used cranks if they are cut. Doesn't really mean that much anyways. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/burnout.gif

[427king]

I took a 20K mile 67z motor with original bearings apart 3 /4 years ago and it had a 6467 crank. Ive always been under the assumption that everyone used the 283 crank because there are 20000 of them for each 6467 you will find? I dont usually go solely by what is printed in a book ,but ive always seen 6467 listed as the true Z crank for 67 in most publications. I guess its like using a 6223 crank in an L88 instead of a 7115. Why spend 1700.00 when you can get the 6223 for 250.00,and some people will argue both are correct ??

[Denis]

I think the reason people want the 822 crank is that that's what Colvin's book says you need to have. So everyone building a 67Z wants the 822 crank with the telltale notch. This isn't something that even the diamond judges are looking at so Colvin's book is what we're using as a guide.

When I rebuilt the engine in my 67 Z, I replaced the 6467 crank with an 822 because that's what I believed was correct. Picture below isn't great but the 822 has a single pie-shaped cutout on the rear flange:

http://67z28.net/gallery/albums/67%20Z28%20Restoration%20Photo%20Chronicle/Engine%20and%20Drivetrain/DCP_1516.jpg

Now, after some years have passed, I'm also starting to think Colvin was wrong and that the 6467 is the correct crank. Convincing arguments are from the chaps who've taken apart original engines (Zedder and 427King earlier in this thread), plus the fact that my engine still was standard bore and had the factory unique dome-shaped pistons and connecting rods in it. Why would somebody swap the crank only?

What did I do with that old 6467 crank you ask? I think I sold it to "budnate" at the last swap meet I was at and sharing a booth with him.

[69RSZ]

interesting. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif But didnt that require a different balancer and not the fat 302 harmonic balancer?

[Salvatore]

67 and 68's used the L79 balancer. Same size as the 69 balancer. Difference was the timing marks. On the L79's and 67-68 Z's the marks lined up with the key way and the 69's on up didn't.

[1967Z28]

The "822" cranks aren't the only ones with the pie cut on the flywheel flange. The "6764" cranks also have it. My two in the garage are that way.

-Jon

[budnate]

it gets better..I threw it on ebay and it sold for like 20 bucks........ http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

[Zedder]

There are some pics of "822" cranks on my old web site from 5 or 6 years ago...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/67z28owner/partsidentifier.html

[Salvatore]

I think all the steel 283 cranks look like my 69 Z crank on the back. At least the ones I saw.

[Salvatore]

You can use the 283 rods. Same thing just not hand picked and shotpened from the factory. (pink rods) Your machine shop can paint them pink if you want. You will NEVER break them especially in a street car. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif A 283 crank (steel) and a set of rods will probably cost you $150.00 at the most. Have the machine shop check everything and balance the whole assembly. Its not rocket science. Sam http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/3gears.gif

[Denis]

I went back and checked my notes. Geez, my memory is getting as bad as my eyesight.

For the record, I pulled a 3876768 ("64-67 283 Forged" per Colvin) crank out and replaced it with the 3815822 ("67 302 Forged" per Colvin).

The 6768 crank did not have any cutouts in the otherwise circular flange whereas the 822 had the single pie-shaped cutout.

Colvin lists both the 6764 and the 6768 as 283 cranks. The 6764 crank is available either forged or cast. A 1964-dated service bulletin outlines the difference in harmonic balancer applications as follows:

[ QUOTE ]

The 283" engine with a nodular iron crankshaft uses a harmonic balancer #3861968, whereas, the 283" engine with a forged steel crankshaft is produced with only a harmonic balancer hub #3795272.

In the event a forged crankshaft is used to replace a nodular iron crankshaft, the original equipment harmonic balancer #3861968 may be used as it is compatible with the forged crankshaft.


[/ QUOTE ]

[Salvatore]

Hey Dennis.....good info. Those little motors screamed!! The crank with the hub only needed the hub to mount the pulley to. Jenkins gave us a lesson on the harmonics of all that stuff a long time ago. I remember the old days when everybody took the 283 and made them into 301's. After that GM decided that was a good idea so they did it in 67. If I remember correctly wasn't that a 125 over bore on the 283 block. Don't feel bad, I just ordered my first pair of glasses. Can't see to read. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif And my wife said I must be hard of hearing also! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

[kwhizz]

Can't see to read. And my wife said I must be hard of hearing also! Sam

And "What" http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif else...........

Ken http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flag.gif

[Salvatore]

You are being http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif naughty Ken!!!

[69RSZ]

this is the casting number of my CE 302 engine 512,jerrys book says it should be a 657 block?
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100011.jpg

[69RSZ]

pic of the notched crank.http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100013.jpg

[69RSZ]

correct heads thoughhttp://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100020.jpg

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
this is the casting number of my CE 302 engine 512,jerrys book says it should be a 657 block?
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100011.jpg

[/ QUOTE ]
the block is dated Aug 68,any thoughts? its definitly not a 4 bolt its 2 bolt main small journal. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[69RSZ]

pic of the datehttp://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100012.jpg

[69RSZ]

top of motor with crankcase venthttp://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l188/Budbrewer1/PA100014.jpgIt also has the o stamping on the rocker arms.

[Denis]

decodes as early 69-73 small journal 2-barrel 327 block, consistent with the J-10-8 (12/10/8) casting date.

and now for something completely different:

for all you other blind 40-somethings out there, the latest issue of hemmings muscle machines mentions a new product which is safety glasses with built-in reading magnification at all the popular levels: 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, etc. cost is 15.00/pr -- i called and ordered a coupl'a pair (need the second pair to find the first). will be indispensable in the shop. available from usa weld 1-800-USA-WELD.

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
The "822" cranks aren't the only ones with the pie cut on the flywheel flange. The "6764" cranks also have it. My two in the garage are that way.

-Jon

[/ QUOTE ]Jon do you want to sell one of those cranks?Im still looking for a nice one.Ron

[1967Z28]

Ron,

Sorry, I don't want to part with them but I will let you know if I run across another one.

-Jon

[69RSZ]

Ok Jon,Thanks and if you find a air cleaner lid lmk.Ron. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flag.gif

[69RSZ]

Thanks everyone for the replys,I found my crank#3917265(6764),balancer #3817173,and rods. All NOS !! http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worship.gif http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif

[1967Z28]

Nice score on those parts, Ron. Congratulations!

-Jon

[69RSZ]

[ QUOTE ]
Nice score on those parts, Ron. Congratulations!

-Jon

[/ QUOTE ]Thanks Jon,I couldnt believe that they were just listed 3 hrs before my search http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif