L78 Carb fuel lines?

[DarrenX33]

I need to put together the correct carb to pump lines for my Camaro. Anyone have any recommendations? I know the trick is finding the correct T block... Chevelle L78 use the same thing?

[Postsedan]

Darren,

Call the boys at D & R......
http://www.drclassic.com/index.html

They sell a complete kit.

If they are out of stock, try....... http://www.ss396.com/

Dan.

[GM-26]

Just tonight, I changed the carb.fuel lines for my LS-6 for the second time and they still aren't right. They are leaking very badly. These are the second set that have been sent to me by "The Right Stuff". The flaring has some flaws and they won't seat. I purchased the stainless kit. Tomorrow, I will call Jason from "The Right Stuff". I spoke with him the first time around and he was a gentleman on the phone.

[VintageMusclecar]

Nick;

The stainless lines can be a serious p.i.t.a. to get to seal up. You might try loosening/tightening them several times using a high quality line wrench to "burnish" the flares a bit. Sometimes this will get them to dry up.

Also, you may have to crank them down pretty hard, as stainless doesn't give (read: "conform") as easily as mild steel does.

Lastly, do not use any teflon tape or thread sealer, the fittings must go together dry.

Eric

[GM-26]

-I installed them exactly how you just explained and both carb. fittings wouldn't stop leaking. I think I am going to get the O.E.M. lines instead of the stainless. This should solve this problem. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thank you for the advice..

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Also, you might try to run a flat file across the ends of the flares to true them up. The SS stuff is difficult to work with, which is why I only used it for the front to back lines which connect with rubber hoses. I used the carbon steel lines from the pump to the carb, no problems - ever!

[GM-26]

Thank you for the tip.

[GM-26]

I called "The Right Stuff" this morning. Without hesitation they will be sending me an O.E.M. carb.to pump set-up. This is how transactions go, when you are dealing with professionals.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I too have had good experiences with them.

[GM-26]

Did you use teflon tape with the O.E.M. style lines?

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

No. These fittings are NPT, so they are tapered and designed to seal without tape &/or dope.

[ORIGLS6]

Probably not highly recommended by the purists but I've also used neoprene O rings inside the carb fittings. Just don't over tighten the fuel line when you put everything back together. I did this when I was playing with jetting and had the bowls on and off a lot. Left it that way for two or three years with no issues,...... and no leaks. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[nuch_ss396]

I have been told by others that blazed this trail before that
the only way to get stainless steel lines to stop leaking is
to use a flaring tool and re-dress the flares to make sure
they are perfect. I haven't tried this myself, but I will
be doing so soon ( with my SS L/78 lines ) http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Nuch

[GM-26]

Thank you Marlin...

[Keith Tedford]

When we bought our L78 car it had a cobbled up fuel pump to Carb setup. I bought the stock reproduction replacement lines. I had to tweak the two 90 degree pieces to get the centre to centre distances right. Other than that, they went together fine. The flare nuts have a straight thread and sealing is done by the inside taper on the double flared ends. The threads aren't meant to seal the fuel in, just to tighten the flare against the taper in the "Y" block or carb inlets. The stainless is single flared. Doubt you could double flare it anyway. When getting flared, the end of the tube has to be square or the flare will certainly be skewed off to one side enough that it isn't going to seal. Some cheap flare tools are just plain useless on steel and wouldn't even begin to do stainless. I've screwed up enough brake line flares to have some idea of what I'm talking about. It does take a little care and practice. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

[WILMASBOYL78]

The stock OEM style "soft steel" lines are the way to go..the stainless is a sweet pain in the you know what!! I sometimes put double gaskets on the carb inlet nuts...seems to give it more crush for sealing...

wilma

[RamAirDave]

[ QUOTE ]
I had to tweak the two 90 degree pieces to get the centre to centre distances right.

[/ QUOTE ]

Another thing to take into account is that the 2 90* lines aren't symmetrical. If not in the right configuration, they'll be way off.

[DarrenX33]

FWIW. I picked up a full set up from D&R. Fit pretty nice.

[Unreal]

My stainless from Right Stuff never leaked. But getting the fittings on the Y lock started was another matter. I ended up starting them before installing the bracket. Then with everything loose, got the bracket over the stud. Then tightened up everything starting with the carb, I think.

[nuch_ss396]

Does anyone have the specifics as to the angle of the flares
on the fuel lines to promote proper sealing with the receiving part?

Steve

[m22mike]

unless something has changed, automotive 45 degrees , aircraft 37 Degrees.

Mike

[nuch_ss396]

Thanks Mike!

Got another question for you. As I mentioned earlier in this thread,
I have been told numerous times that the SS lines need to be re-flared
to make sure they seat properly. I was also told that the SS alloy is
very hard on flaring tools - hence the reason for my question about
the flare angle(s). I have seen some heavy duty flaring tools from Ridgid
and I was contemplating getting one to stand up to the abuse
of re-flaring the SS lines. What do you think?

Steve

[VintageMusclecar]

Steve;

Since the stainless lines do not need double-flared, you should be OK with just a decent standard-duty flaring tool.

Eric

[nuch_ss396]

Thanks Eric!

Steve

[VintageMusclecar]

Glad to help. http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beers.gif