X2 you will be taking it home in a Dixie cup . Clutch management will help but?

As far as the driveshaft the aluminum is easier to accelerate as its rotating mass, my T/S car was faster with aluminum

I have a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my 67 Camaro and it has taken everything my 525 hp 406 has thrown at it with no problem. Lifetime warranty on U-joints as well.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c2_...iveshafts.html

I concur

Been looking into driveshafts for this and the length is an issue with critical rotational rpm. The shaft, itself, will be about 58" and at that length and a 6500 rpm speed, Denny's is the only one who will touch this. All the others drop out at about 52-4" for that rpm.

I just talked with their phone rep and I will, most likely, be ordering their 3.5" nitrous ready pro package with Mark Williams yokes on both ends. Their 4" aluminum isn't all that much more, but since I need new rear gears and stronger axles too, I'll stay with the steel. Thinking about Mark Williams for the gears and axles too. The Strange gears for street/strip warn they are susceptible to teeth breaking under heavy shock loads and not really suitable for drag racing with slicks...hmmm. I don't need to break them next, so will be talking with Mark Williams about their street/strip gears and axles soon.
Need to decide if I want to modify the axle tubes for bolt in axles first... :hmmm:

Don’t forget that MW & Strange use different pressure angles on their splines so the differential (or spool) and axles must be both from the same manufacturer.

BTW, a Carbon Fiber driveshaft is expensive but is supposed to be worth a solid tenth. You may get to a point where the car is extremely close to breaking an ET barrier and wished you’d spent a little more money!

Diff carrier is original Eaton, and no, I'm not into this seriously, just don't need to break anything else when I do play.

Breaking the tail housing off at SCR was the least expensive part to replace.

They are the strongest and have infinite shaft speed, but are not at all abrasion resistant and not recommended for street car applications for that reason.

You have to be sure that you have clearance for a larger diameter shaft. You don't want it rubbing on something like exhaust pipes or floor braces.

I doubt that you would need to go with c clip eliminators if you buy quality axles. C clip eliminators have their own set of problems when used on the street. For one thing they tend to leak oil on your brakes. Once you install c clip eliminators it's very hard to go back to original.

The nice thing about carbon is if you brake a U joint and the shaft hits the ground. It will not beat the bottom of the car up. I have a carbon shaft on a 4k lb car that makes 800 at the tires cutting a 1.39 60 with a carbon shaft.