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Looks like fun to refurbish the shop and get it ready for some new projects. The high ceilings are a big plus. Enjoy.
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You can see the plates for ramps to be installed. Drive them up there.
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I had a new pad, so I'm unsure about prepping the old one, but I acid etched mine and used a product from Sherwin Williams called Armor seal. I've had it on there almost two years now and the only places where it has come up is where a piece of steel or heavy tool hit the floor hard enough to chip the concrete. It's easy to clean, chemical resistant, and isn't too slippery when wet. I went with a color called steel grey i think and it's light enough to brighten the shop up. Good lighting makes all the difference in working in there as well. I have 7, 21,000 lumen lights in my 40x60. They were about $100 a piece on amazon but are on sale now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1 https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pai...floor-coatings |
Any updates Tony?
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I had a security door replaced, had the inside walls pressure washed, and have been working on the floors every free moment I can get away. SLOW progress….
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Yeah, I have had no luck getting the oil stains out of my concrete. Even using acetone leaves a dark spot. I have some HC microbial stuff on the way.
https://www.covertecproducts.com/pro...r-oils-diesel/ |
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Lynn- spent four hours on a small area of my floor, with the Zep citrus cleaner and then the Zep purple degreaser, and still I’m not having much success getting these oil stains out. Did you have any luck with the microbial cleaner?
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It did not do as well as I had hoped.
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Sorry to hear that Tony. Part of the problem is that the oil wicks into the grain structure of the cement so therefore you need a something to get in and remove the oil and then the left over carbon deposits. If you cant live with that then you are looking at light surface grinding, acid etch, and finally an epoxy coating.
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Tony, rent a bush hammer and try a sample area where the staining is at it worse. You can go to any depth to see where the staining/saturation ends. As mentioned before, the concrete is porous and most likely soaked in pretty good. If this bush hammering becomes an option, you can rent a scabbler (does a larger area at a time) and do the entire floor and then skim coat it with an epoxy. Good luck.
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OK, Tony, time for an update. Been wondering where you are at with this a for a while now. Hopefully, you have done something with the floor and are now building either of your Camaros...https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...y-emoticon.gif
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I’m curious about this shop progress also.
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I decided I'm going to live with the floor as-is. I've been continuing to degrease it and it looks a little better. Replaced one of the overhead heaters that had a cracked heat exchanger, moved my lathe and mill where I wanted them, sorted out some electrical stuff and bought a decent blasting cabinet. It's functional enough now - just need a duplicate of every tool I have at home!
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Thanks for the update, Tony. Which car are you going to get started on ....https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...=15&fit=bounds...:grin:
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----Looking forward to a walk thru, Tony!.....Bill S
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Scored these today - one seems to work. I've always wanted a Sun machine.
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I believe those are very early machines, especially the 404. Pretty sure it is older than my machine. See pic.
Very nice. Paramount may have the missing parts you need. Can also help convert to solid state, eliminating all the tubes. AND, they have an adapter so you can check HEI distributors. |
Very cool! Yes, I will be calling them for sure.
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First car related project underway in the machine shop! Swapping out the fuel tank supports and shocks in my son's 98 Jeep. What a rust bucket....
I got the compressed air system leak free (ish) and functional yesterday. Was pretty impressed that the system was 140psi yesterday and still 120psi when I came back the next day (after turning the compressor off). |
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