Camaro firewall insulation
 

Does anyone have any tips for installing the rubber retainers for the firewall insulation? The retainers seem to be a bear to get in without ruining them.

I am sure there are a few ways of doing it, but this is how I do it. Get a Phillips screwdriver, and push that into the retainer to stretch it. Also put a smear of grease or silicone on the rubber part going through the firewall. Don't push too hard with screwdriver or it will poke through. Guess if you have an old Phillips you could round off the tip.

- Warren

I've had good luck with Dawn dish soap to make them slippery....Joe

I ground down the end of an old cheap phillips screwdriver to make it a smooth dome, so there was no point.

One of the most important things to remember is the need to push in two planes; push inside the tip and at the flange at the same time.

Fashion a Tool as fancy as this brass custom tool or even machine or grind down a screwdriver so it performs in the same manner.

Use: Isopropyl alcohol, Silicone Spray lube or Dish-soap, something to lubricate the installation.

I think it also 'depends' which version of the fastener you have, I have seen very brittle plastic version -vs- a more rubbery flexible style,,,,

Factory used dish soap, fwiw.

Each worker in the trim shop had a tool box and an apron with front pockets for tools also.

firewall fasteners
 

I have the good rubber fasteners. will grind down an old philips today and give it a try with the dish soap. Thx for the help. Tom

If you bought one of those cheep insulations they are a pain and don't line up the molded ones fit great and easy to install

firewall insulation
 

I do have the molded insulation. Tried to put fasteners in today and broke 2 even using the soap screwdriver method . Have to order more fasteners.

If I remember correctly JOHNZ stated that on the assembly line that in addition to the dish soap they kept the push plugs near a heat source like a lamp or something so they would stretch and go through the hole...

Norwood Trim line guy says they used an air operated punch. Punch was a heavy suspended reciprocating two stroke punch that was suspended on a spring tether.

No lubricant was required.
No heat was required.

Pinch was inserted through the center hole.

Line the fastener up and push the button and the weight of the tool took away the recoil.

When I replaced the rubber ones in my car...I put the rubber in hot water to soften them up and then they were much easier to push in. And also the grease or what ever lube you may want to use will help.

That is my .002

Dave
67 Nova Boy

Phil, that's pretty tight quarters up under the dash to install the plugs. I'm curious how a heavy suspended punch gets in there to do something like that. Did he elaborate? If you're installing them from the engine bay side of the firewall I can see something like that but inside the car does not makes sense to me.

Jon,

Installing the insulator of one of the very first things you do to the shell before you begin reassembly and you are smart you are starting with and working with an empty Instrument Panel (dash shell).

So I am trying to understand what does not make sense? Over the years I have done several of these without any issues -all by myself and while it is not particularly pleasant I had no problems.

Please clairify your question and accordingly I will ask for additional information pertaining to the tools, ergonomics and the ODS specification for this element performed at Norwood Fisher Body.

Phil, I will send you a PM as maybe I'm not envisioning the process correctly. Thanks.

Aside from Jon's question.... the reason I asked about the process used was the issues with trim fitment on restoration work.

The initial reply provided was "haven't you fella's been bitching about needing to slam doors on cars for years all due to hard reproduction weatherstripping? "My Kid complains all the time on his 57 chevy and I tell him to go find NOS GM".

We both laughed for a minute but that's how the conversation started.

Jon,

Excellent point. A couple of pictures are helpful for others who may have the same kind of questions concerning the typical tool arrangements within Fisher Body.

Suspended air operated tool showing air hose held in hand and the typical hanging tool in position and ready to work next to the moving body truck.

Good one Phil as we’ve all heard that one. Luckily I had nos pieces for our doors. Lol
When installing our nos insulation pad purchased in 1979 I used the original plugs or several of them and I did puncture one thru using a Phillips screwdriver. As aforementioned it’s much better imo to use a tool blunted at the end and I like using Dawn for a little lubricant.

Here is a photo of the same element of assembly in Gen 3 production. The worker had to momentarily lay down to get the fasteners installed.

My trick has been to locate and re use original fasteners (plugs)
:beers:

Thanks for the pics and info, Phil.

You are welcome Jon.