Hood Hinge Rebuilder recommendations wanted.
 

Looking for hood hinge rebuilder recommendations. It’s for 68 GTO hood hinges. They are rust free, but worn. TIA.

Phil Woj.

I have used Willie at hoodhingerepair.com for several years with great results.

Yep, Willie, several pairs done for mine and friends.
Live link for ya hoodhingerepair.com

Thanks gents. I appreciate the quick response.

Me too!

Wild Willie is the best! He had shoulder surgery last fall and warned me it might be a while, about three months, but he may be getting caught up by now.

He doesn't do phosphate plating, do it before sending or after you get them back.

Do it before, cause he greases the snot outta them rivets and it's a biotch to get things clean enough for any top coat to stick.

Any one car to comment on what i "think" is correct....the Hinge Pieces were Zinc Phosphated and then submerged in a Protective Oil, that makes them Dark...The
Rivets Holding the two Hinge Pieces were Manganese Phosphated (Almost Black) $
the Spring is Manganese Phosphate (also oiled)

I believe that Zinc Phosphate hinges that are left unoiled are restored incorrect......

Below is SURVIVOR 73 Camaro Hinge
NOS Spring on Left vs Zinc Phosphate on Right
Zinc Phosphate (NO Oil) is Too Light IN Color

Flame suit on................Fire Me Up

Maybe these are helpful here.
68 only and period NOS.
I will let the pics speak for themselves

Used Brian Henderson a while back at Supercar Workshops, did a really nice job and was very reasonable. Don't know if he's still in that game.?

I didn’t know they’re was someone rebuilding hinges these days, good info. I phosphated my hinges myself. Bought the stuff from Palmetto Enterprises and followed the instructions they sent with it. Made a square SS pan about 3 inches deep to place them in. Got to have a good heat source and keep the temp right.
I use Remington Gun Oil on my hinges n hood latch. Any light grade oil would work, probably 3 in 1 would be okay. Back in 96 I got some oil from ASL but it’s pretty dark.

Aesthetic restoration as above is very doable, I use an old SS sink welded shut, on an old bbq. A bit longer on the q will darken them up a bit more, and that's the way I like it. Where you can get in trouble is using too aggressive of a media to blast them. Where Willie comes in is resetting new rivets and getting the movement back to oem. All depends on the condition of the hinge if you need that or not.

Phosphates hinges will hold up real good if you keep them oiled but they’ll get dirty. Every dust n dirt particle that comes along will stick to the oil. Best way to clean them is remove from the car n put in hot soapy water n brush them down. Hose spray n let them dry overnight then reapply some oil. Your good to go until they get too dirty to please you.

Anyone ever try Linseed oil? Old tractor collectors use it a lot as preservative on un-restored examples.

That would probably work fine. I like the gun oil because it’s light weight and it has a clear color which maintains the phosphate look.
The ASL oil I spoke about was light weight but dark color. They sold it as recommended for phosphate parts but I prefer the lighter look. Personal preference I suppose.

Anybody have experience using FLUID FILM on hinges as I believe FF is a great Rust Inhibitor on ALL Phosphated Steel Parts................

Question for the judges on here: do you give a pass for hood hinge rivet appearance on rebuilt hinges? No rebuilder is able to match the original "cross" pattern of a GM assembly line rivet from what I have seen.

I have my Survivor 70 Camaro to look at and Survivor hinges from a 73 Camaro......and Ive seen NOS hinges on EBAY.........They are all fairly dark........I cant prove anything and no way to know if Original GM HInges were Zinc Phosphate Plated and then subjected to Rust Inhibiting Oil......

In any event, I think that many of the high dollar restored GM cars have hood
hinges that are too light in color and dont represent the correct "look"

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