Need a "BE"?
 

Courtesy of Ebay & HBC:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Cama...616332740QQrdZ1

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Doesn't mention if the special COPO posi unit is included.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

I would be willing to bet that it's a fake .....

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Fresh from the BE assembly plant! This is an example of why Eric J. regrets posting the BE dates. Too easy to fake.
Mark

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

How are you guys so sure it is a fake ?

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

CONSIDER THE SOURCE ?????

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

That is a BS answer. Heartbeat probably has more real rare Camaro parts than anyone in the country so calling it a fake seems out of line without a better answer. If he had a "Buy it now" of 1500.00 I might be inclined to believe it was a stamped piece but his price is up there.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

*just for the record*

There are 2 "Eric J's" here.

Carry on.

Eric

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

OK, Where's the popcorn!!! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Look at the smoothness of the axle tubes. They look NOS !

Wish mine looked that that, instead of all the pitting....

Steve

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Hey Eric,
Which one am I Eric J.#1 or Eric J.#2.
Does it go by age???
If so, you're #1 https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif
Later,
The Other Eric

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Eric;

Well, since I have the earlier registered date, I guess I'll be "Eric J. #1" https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Eric

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

[ QUOTE ]
That is a BS answer. Heartbeat probably has more real rare Camaro parts than anyone in the country so calling it a fake seems out of line without a better answer. If he had a "Buy it now" of 1500.00 I might be inclined to believe it was a stamped piece but his price is up there.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would have to agree. Jim's prices are usually up there, and he isn't much for giving "deals", but I have dealt with him several times, and find him to be an honest guy. He does have some parts that are very difficult to find elsewhere.

I also remember him stating in one auction that he would not stamp a date code on an undated part, because it was agains "Heartbeat Ciy policy". Have to respect that.

Just my 02 cents.

Lynn

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

I would love to know how he got them tubes looking so good when he restored this rear? They look great…

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/hmmm.gif Yeah, that's what I said! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/hmmm.gif

I wonder if it was a southwest car. Anyone else ever
seen axle tubes this pristine? Could it me NOS? Does
such a thing exist?

Steve

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Most Camaros that had BE rears weren't exactly daily driver's if you know what I mean. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif I would think a lot of BE rears spent time on race cars that were stored in garages. But the date on that rear seems pretty early doesn't it? I can't read it so well but looks like BE0116? Wouldn't that most likely make it a rear off a Yenko or ZL1?

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

There car I'm looking at that the seller says has an original BE rear end. The numbers stamped on it are
BE 1025G1 with an E stamped underneath. Is that within the range of production?

The car is being sold as a Yenko clone.

Paul

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Paul,
I know this is off the main thread topic, but here is my answer to your question.
The rears that I have seen date from mid Nov 68 to late Sept 69.
IMO the rear is too early and late for a 69 rear.
I believe the first ZL1 rears were mid-late Nov to early Dec 68 and the last COPO cars were early October 69.
Kurt S. should be able to give a more accurate opinion on this.

If the car is a clone, I wouldn't worry about it unless the seller is using the rear to boost the price of the car.
If so, ask to inspect/verify that the posi and r&p set are really correct COPO parts. If it has the wrong internals, the rear is at best 75% incorrect, assuming the housing is authentic (again just my opinion).

Hope this helps and wasn't too long winded,
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif
Eric

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Here is what a real BE ring gear looks like.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../RingGear2.jpg

Since Jim clearly says in the ad that he has a correct R&P set for sale, not included in this ad, a buyer would have to check with him about a price for the whole assembly. He may be willing to deal.
Money talks, and this is not an auction, but an advertisment with a price.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

When I spoke to Jim about the rear he did mention having a correct r&p set that was available. I think he said it was a 1970 dated set. At that time, he did not know if the carrier was the correct original 3916234 unit.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Charlie,
Its never described as "original", only "re-manufactured". Another "correct", "numbers matching", "appears original" part!
Mark

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

How do you get the tubes so nice? Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand, Sanding primer, sand... Well I think you get the point. It takes a little TLC but it can be done and will look awesome when done right. My BU rear looked like an alligator after I sandblasted it. Now it looks NOS.

Tommy M.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Tommy,

Care to share how many hours went with all of that painting
& sanding? BTW, what did you do in the area where the
codes are stamped? That much paint would probably fill in
the stampings - no?

Steve

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

First you will want to lay down a coat of epoxy primer to cover all bare metal, then spray the pitted area with sanding primer (also called filler primer). I used a combination of a DA sander and manual sanding to take the entire surface of the tubes back down to bare metal. You will see the sanding primer starting to build up in those pitts. Then repeat. I ended up with about 5 or 6 coats of sanding primer and sanding to build up the pitting to the original axle surface. (When you are done with the sanding primer, it should look a bunch of specks of grey scattered in The bare metal tubes. That is the sanding primer filling in all those pits.) Epoxy prime the entire rear and inspect the tubes to your liking. Repeat as many times and you would like because you are not actually building up primer on the tubes, just in the pitts. After I am satisfied, I use an awl to scrape out all the stampings and then paint the entire rear in your finishing coat. It really will pay off and trust me, looks awesome when you are done. I really thought my rear had no chance but wow, it really looks great.

Tommy M.

Re: Need a "BE"?
 

Tommy,

That's great! Got any before & after images to share? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/worship.gif

Steve