Leaky fuel line
I sent my qjet to Eric for rebuild and needed to replace the fuel pump to carb after I got it back. I installed the new line and is leaking at the fuel pump fitting. I refitted it two more times and it is still leaking. I lifted the front of the car to try to get the fuel from flowing to the fuel pump for now. I have not started the engine yet with the new line (for obvious reasons) so I don’t know if it will be leaking at the carb. It was leaking at carb with the prior line and that is why I bought a new line.
What is the best way to solve this issue? I have considered getting a stainless flex line with AN fittings if that will fix this problem. This is on my 70 Monte Carlo with LS5 454. |
Original fuel pump or aftermarket ? Many aftermarket needed an adapter for the flare on the hard line. A flare line will thread into an iron pipe thread, but obviously not seal.
I've run across over the counter A/C pumps that needed that adapter also. |
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I started using the AC copper flair gaskets about 10 years ago and EVERY engine I work on gets them.The are a life saver .Tom
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Cool !! I never knew of these either ! What a great source of information. I avoid adding to Bozos' considerable fortune, so found them on FASPARTS website for $2.50 each. I ordered 6 and even with shipping the cost comes out to $21.69. About half the cost of 6 with free shipping on Amazon...:cool2: https://fasparts.com/store/sae45-59-6.html |
Just add a little grease around the threads of the new line, that should do it. Had the same problem with a new line, but at the carb end. So far, not a leak in four years. I used wheel bearing grease.
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Mr. Nickey Nova has suggested a easy solution that I tried out. I had a fuel leak issue at the fuel pump and asked for tips/solutions on this forum. A member at that time suggested the grease on the threads technique. Such a simple fix and I wasn't expecting miracles, but that's what it turned out to be. At least a year later and I am not experiencing leaks !
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Thanks. I ordered 6 of the copper washers but will try the wheel bearing grease first. I would have never known about either of these solutions. That is why I posted this dilemma here first for the knowledge of the people here.
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I find that the double flares done by a hydraulic flaring tool are not as consistent in the mating surface as the ones using a tool that spins the end into the flare.
SO I have found that lightly snugging the nut and then spinning the tube around a few times (lapping the flares together) then light tightening and repeating the spinning of the flare will lap the two together and alleviate leaks- it works especially well on problem stainless flares. |
I used a small piece of copper sheet and made my own washer and it worked fine. Also, the alignment has to be perfect and tighten 5 or 6 times to work the flare :)
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