Yup, gotta love that factory quality. Don't you dare improve upon it. That would be sacrilegious!

That really is weird looking at the 340 and the shaker covers it.
Good progress on the truck and the car. I would have a tough time deciding which one to do

Yeah, I hear ya’s! It’s kind of comical seeing that big sombrero on that little motor. Sort of like a Wonder Bra. All good looking from the outside, then after all that work removing it you’re left with massive disappointment while mumbling the words, “That’s it?!?!?!?!:thumbsdown::wink:

Next week all the parts start showing up, but first up will be cowl repair. NOS GE FOG bulbs, NOS Idle Solenoid, and a few other goodies are in that mix!:headbang:

More to come....

Cheers
Dave

Looking forward to sitting back and watching this thread.



https://media.giphy.com/media/9xYUC4dPOHBjG/giphy.gif

Thanks, Darrel!:tongue: Parts are coming in! Some Year One goodies (the other half is on backorder until who the heck knows when:hmmm:), brake and fuel lines, all the clutch parts, new shifter (original will get rebuilt and stored then installed after she's restored), and a complete exhaust from Accurate. I'll do ECS' system when tear her down and restore her. Crunchy will get an ECS system too.

Next week some metal work on the cowl.

Cheers:beers:
Dave

Time to start putting some of these new parts on this buggy! First up was the clutch. Brewer's supplied all my missing parts and Wayne is a great guy to deal with. :burnout: Let's get that clutch installed!

So Wayne provided me with a roller bearing for the input shaft of the transmission. That came with an instruction sheet. Seriously? Pppffllppp... I've installed about eleventy some clutches.... what's different about this one?:confused2: Well, lemme read it (paper crinkle sound) "All input shafts on Mopars may vary in length. To verify the roller bearing will not conflict with the non-tapered area A and B on the diagram, bolt the bellousing to the block and measure from the base of the [what the hell are they talking about? ] recess in the crankshaft to the bolt face of the transmission. Measure the distance between C and D on the diagram, subtract the distance from A and B [what's the bolt face of a transmission?:dunno:] and solve for distance X. If that train left Chicago at 5:00pm traveling at 45mph, then that calculation must be less then first distance, A, that was measured from the train that left Sacremento at 6:42pm":scholar:

Ok, so after four stabs of the transmission into the engine, I realized what that all meant. It basically said that the trains collide in Sasparilla, CO. :hmmm::biggthumpup:

Now, this just being a driver, I didn't go crazy with the detailing/ cleaning and such that I would if I was getting ready for a MCACN unveiling. But, never the less, I can't fight the factory marking bug!

And for the Mopar guys that removed their speedo gear to swap it out for another, then reinstalled it only to find it not working, this may be why! There are a few different notches for different speedo gears depending on the teeth. There's a corresponding single notch on the transmission case. You see where your tooth range falls and line it up to the corresponding notch on the trans! If you just installed a new gear and it's not working, check the notch. It might be too far away from the drive gear. :scholar: My gear is correct for F70x14 tires with a 3.23 gear.

Cheers:beers:
Super Dave

The shaker and pistol grip are tied for making the whole car!!

The PG wins in my books !!

Love the build!!

Ryan W31

Being close to Halloween, it's Great Pumpkin time! :smile: What's a better Jack-O-Lantern than a Mopar motor?:laugh: With everthing masked off, I sprayed 440 Orange over everything. Yes, these 340s in 1970 were not Hemi Orange... which... after spraying so many Orange things these last few years I can't tell what orange is what anymore! :frown:. That spectrum of my retna be blown out!

Now remember, this being a driver I didn't go crazy on the finer details like I will when I tear her down for the real restoration. But, me being me, I had to get some details in there. :wink: Overspray on the bellhousing and clutch fork, alternator bolts will have orange on them yet the brackets will be black, bare bottom oil pan, unpainted fuel pump and spark plug retainers. What I didn't do was attach the exhaust manifolds and spray them with the 440 Orange. This being a driver, I don't want all that burnt paint around and figured cast blast would be fine. Although I will be painting the heads of the bolts and studs to make it appear that they were on the engine, painted, and that had already burned off. So freaking fun!!!

Metal work on the cowl comes up next! :eek2:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

Looks good Dave!
Yes, everyone assumes Hemi Orange.....but that was used only on Hemi's....even with that, the Hemi's changed the shade of orange during the 69 model year. 70 340's were definitely 440 orange.
I imagine either those were spares or you will be painting the alternator brackets black.
Personally, I love the smell of burning exhaust manifold paint in the morning!

Yep, Jim. I'll paint those brackets black, don't you worry. :laugh: I think we touched on this in email, but the vacuum fitting on the rear of the intake: painted or unpainted? From what I have seen, they are unpainted. What makes sense to me is that this fitting would be installed and painted, then if power brakes were optioned, that was removed and the proper fitting installed. But then again, was no fitting installed since it was a small port like the temp and oil sender holes which are unpainted? :confused2:

Love the details!

Cheers:beers:
Dave