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-   -   Installing headers (https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=149671)

mockingbird812 07-01-2018 10:57 PM

Installing headers
 
So I have the distinct honor of having to remove, recoat, and reinstall my Super Scavenger headers in my ‘69 Chevelle SS :no: ! The original coating was not applied/cured properly and started to fail almost immediately. So, I am looking for the best way to reinstall these headers with the engine already installed. When I installed them the 1st time, I lifted the driver’s side of the engine (after removing the engine mount bolt) to try and gain a bit of room, but had a heck of a time reinstalling the driver’s side engine mount bolt as the headers leave little room in that area and the bolt has to come from the rear of the engine. Has anyone put their car on a lift and inserted Super Scavengers from below. They are a tight fit!:crazy:

thanks!

bbbentley 07-02-2018 02:36 AM

Just an idea Sam, find some cheap, unhardened, 3 in. or close length hex head bolts the same size thread as the header (3/8-16? Or 5/16 can’t remember) you only need 2 per side. Most bb Chev s are just tight enough that the engine needs to be raised off the mounts whether put in from top or bottom. I have only installed from the bottom. You need to do this on a lift as the header has to be tilted down and angled up into position. I would 1st unbolt eng. mounts. Raise engine and put a block of 2X4 under each mount. Once header is in position, put one of your long bolts in a hole near the front of header and one in one of the rear end (just find an easy hole to start bolt) leave both finger tight. You are just wanting to have the headers positioned. Now, you are ready to remove blocks and lower engine back down in position. At this point the header is not bolted up rigid, so there is some give to move enough to get bolt eng. mount bolts started. Now, try to put the motor mount bolt in the easiest way 1st. This way you can be assured it will go in the hard way and everything will line up. The way I adjust the engine up and down to align holes of frame stand with mount, I find that a bottle jack positioned directly under a oil pan bolt on the same side as the side that bolt is started gives the most control of incremental movement to align holes. A bottle cap off a plastic water bottle can be placed between oil pan bolt and jack to prevent marring. Once engine is signed & bolted back in stands, you can move to the top side and start your regular header bolts, eventually removing the 2 Long alignment bolts.

big gear head 07-02-2018 03:26 AM

I've never installed headers from the top. I actually didn't know that it could be done. I know that my Camaro is different from your Chevelle, but I have to remove the oil filter before I can get mine in on the driver's side. The clutch Z bar also has to be removed, which is probably the hardest part because it goes through the header tubes. I remove the carburetor and put a lift plate on the intake manifold and use my engine hoist to lift the engine. This does take 2 people.

mockingbird812 07-02-2018 02:45 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I will place the car on my lift (4 post) to remove the headers and just do the opposite when I reinstall - great in theory at least!


I guess I wont' be able to elevate the car too far up as I have to accommodate the boom of the engine hoist (hood is off of the car). Will i be able to get the car high enough in the air to manipulate the headers to insert from below? In other words is it necessary to lift the engine off of one or both mounts a bit in order to get the headers to be inserted from below?

big gear head 07-02-2018 03:29 PM

I do this with my car on jack stands. I've done a few Chevelles too, but it's been a long time, so I don't remember how much room was required with them. I would think that you will have more room in the Chevelle because the steering box won't be in the way.

NorCam 07-02-2018 04:45 PM

That sucks hearing about the finish not holding up Sam. Can't say I have any experience with M/T's on a Big Block Chevelle, but I do know where you're at since having two motors in and out twice in the past year. I've always lifted motors and wired them up to hold the headers out of the way until the block was high enough. Only success I've ever had with putting them in from the bottom was on the passenger side which I did again last month. I've pulled the drivers side up a couple times to pull one out although much harder on some cars with steering boxes.

I'll be fitting the MT tubes in the green Camaro very soon and do hope to keep the orange ceramic coating from getting beat up. I trust these will be hung by wires before the motor is lowered into place.

Cars is really looking super sweet Sam. So envious :)


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