Sound-deadening undercoat material in rear wheelhouses
 

Is there a technically correct material being used for sound-deadening undercoat material just as the factory sprayed in the rear wheelhouses? Most painters I know are using the typical rubberized undercoat which gives you a thin pebbly coating and is nothing like the thicker factory applied material?

1.) I'm wondering if anyone has a good source for the thicker stuff like the factory used and if they used a shutz gun and a pressure pot to apply it?

2.) Also wondering if that was the same material sprayed inside of the rear quarter panels and inside the doors & quarter window openings?

Thanks for any good info on materials used to replicate the stock products.

I'm also interested to know what the "professional" restoration shops/painters are using.

Having said that if if werent for authenticity I like the appearance of UPOL RAPTOR but it likely doesnt do squat for sound deadening ?????

I would try the Body Shutz undercoating with the Shutz gun. Should go on thick.

I asked this question years ago and never got a good reponse. Im pretty sure ithe factory stuff was asphalt based. It sure catches fire if you use a torch to heat it. Id like to try Techtyl 8140. The website says its asphalt and solvent based. Its 140 a gallon so I wish they had quart to try out befote commiting to it.

I watched a 3M video today on their Shutz applied 08864 rubberized undercoating and it goes on nice. From what I saw it can easily be built up in layers if desired and can go on at 30 PSI up to 60 PSI. I'm sure that if I played around with this and got it on thick I could create those waves with higher pressure that are often seen on inside quarter panels and doors. I think the flat color appears very close to the original stuff and it might be a great choice. Pretty sure I'll buy a few cans and do the rear wheel houses and inside the rear quarters if I don't find something better?

Have you ever tried Wurth products? I use Wurth’s high body underseal all the time and it’s awesome. It does not remain tacky and it’s thick, depending on how you apply it. One spray can goes a long way. You may be able to buy it in bulk, but it can’t hurt to try a can first to see if you like it. I love the stuff!

I use 3M's 08804 Shutz and gun and by manipulating the air pressure you can get it to spray fairly heavy (albeit messy). Then using an air gun I can make it very wavy like original. Of all the products I have used over the years I have had the best luck with this one.

I went mad scientist a few years back - and now I use evercoat mixed approx 50/50 with tar roofing patch sprayed from a modified internal mix popcorn ceiling gun... The only thing which will give a build like original.

Here are some spray tests... the thicker coating results from LESS AIR PRESSURE.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

Wow...betcha that took some time to sort out. So which of the ones on the test panel did you end up going with. I'm thinking top row...maybe the middle? In any case, your wheel openings are looking spot on.

Tell me about the mods to the popcorn gun?

The hopper on top is too large to make it useful in and around wheel arches trunks etc. - so I took an ever coat undercoat can lid cut the top out soldered it to a short length of tube which I could then affix to the gun using a hose clamp/ this is the same way the original hopper is attached. A short length of rubber hose may work as well..
A HF popcorn gun was $25 so I figured whats the worst that can happen?

With this you are able to screw an evercoat can inverted onto the top... makes it gravity fed, if not you would have to pressurize the pot, it dries harder than the OEM however looks as close as I can find.

The final thing I did was getting picky with the spray pattern and on the the smallest tip I slotted the hole and ground a taper to the slot on the rear so it would shoot less of a round pattern and more of a bar pattern - I have a new sample sheet with those tests and air pressures noted, but I don't have any photos yet.
BTW top row middle was correct...