Big shout out for Tim Schuetz who posted some info on his engine thread a few weeks back regarding the use of the Macs Pivot Tool for installing engines. I bought one from Summit and used it to install the new motor into the 68, and man this thing is an absolute godsend! A simple adjustment and you can spot the engine onto the mounts and level it up in seconds. Spot on so the mounting bolts drop right through and align with absolutely zero effort. I don't think I've ever had an easier time installing an engine?

Thanks Tim...:biggthumpup:

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Pulled the engine back out after test fitting the headers and sent them off to be ceramic coated. Got them back Friday and spent the better part of today tidying the engine bay with some wiring re-wraps and installed the MSD up in the glove box. Also wired a relay for a new Aeromotive fuel pump being installed tomorrow. Yesterday I got the subframe connectors installed and should have things wrapped up in a few days so it can go for a new exhaust. Getting closer to having it all finished up now.

Can someone tell me what that 2 prong jack is that's located just left of the booster and right by the ground strap? I forgot what connects to it?

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Reverse light switch.

Thanks Darrell

I always liked '68s and I like the Grotto Blue. My '69 was originally a two-tone;5350 Glacier Blue with a White painted roof. The Grotto & Glacier Blues are similar and, in my opinion, underappreciated....(kinda like '68s are in general). Anyway, you have a killer ride there Bro.! Nothing like a rockin' SBC screaming in front of a stick, with plenty of gear!

After finishing up a new fuel system and a host of other mods, I had hoped to be rolling it today but hit a couple snags tonight. Mew motor and transmission are in but the Lakewood Bell/Clutch Fork has presented some clearance issues at the firewall which are going to take some figuring. Going to need to do the heater core now too as it starting leaking today after the valve cover pressed back against that 30 year old core outlet while we were installing the block. That ones a real bummer as I recall they are a PITA to change out. Anyways...here are some pictures to update the days work.


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Lakewood clutch forks are very bulky, plus wrong length bell
Housing pivot ball can position fork to far rearward in bellhousing aggravating the problem. If you use a original GM clutch fork and trim the back ribs slightly it clears the floor, I also used to leave the block plate out because it gives you extra 3/16" clearance , sometimes a 2x4 and a 90832B helps.

Lookin forward to seeing you and your little '68 driver out and about this summer!

3729000 is the pivot ball that usually works with that Hays pressure plate

Thanks Mike. I looked at the 15501 ball that was in the bell housing and thought it looked good compared to the stock 403 housing sitting beside it, but didn't actually measure them. I installed the Lakewood 15500 Fork assuming it would fit but it does have a beefier web along the top and that's where it's striking the firewall.

No getting around the mid plate being installed now so I'll take your advice and try switching the ball and the fork to see what difference that makes. FWIW, I called High River and they have the ball in stock so I'll pull the bell later on today and work on that this weekend to see if I can gain some clearance in there.

If not it'll be a BFH moment. :mad:

Cheers