[Too Many Projects]

I remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joints. Turn the nuts out 3 turns and then use a pickle fork with a really big hammer to break the taper seal on the stud. OR just use the really big hammer and strike the spindle about center of the stud and it will break free. Striking directly with the hammer will cause dents, so if that isn't desirable, use the pickle fork.
Once you have the ball studs loose, remove the shock, you can do this before breaking the studs free too... and insert 36" of 1/2" diameter all thread rod thru the shock mount hole at the top and thru the bottom of the lower control arm. You'll need a thick plate on the bottom... 1/2" would be safe. Double nut the rod on the bottom, so it can't turn and then tighten a nut on top of a heavy washer on the top side of the all thread until the bottom stud nut can be easily removed. Once you have the nut off, start turning the top nut out, so the spring extends, until it is loose in the lower control arm. You'll need to have 18-24" of space under the car for the spring to extend before it will relax. Once that happens, remove the all thread and the spring and remove the top stud nut and the spindle is free. Observe how the spring rests in the lower control arm for re-assembly. The top of the spring will be wound and ground flat, while the bottom has a pig tail that needs to be clocked into the recess in the lower control arm. Not a big deal to do, but I've seen many people not pay attention to that and have the spring bound up and curved against the shock.

Also, upon reassembly of the control arms, do NOT tighten the mounting bolts with the suspension hanging. The bolts can be snug, but the arms need to move free, as they get tightened with the full weight of the car on the suspension, with rubber bushings. If installing urethane, they can be tightened hanging.