Since I haven't done anything to the car in a while, other than drive it, and I was itching to fiddle with something, I thought I'd try and figure out why it was running hot (allegedly).
When driving around, the factory gauge was hanging in the middle of the gauge around 200 degrees (or so I thought) Even the fancy, shmancy Stewart Warner electrical temp gauge that I installed a few pages ago in this thread was saying a similar temperature, so me, being the trusting type, believed them.
The problem was, that the car never really seemed hot.
So like a good husband, I waited til wifey-poo was out shopping (which usually takes up about 8 hours a day). I went into the kitchen and borrowed (stole) her most expensive Food Channel autographed Emeril Legasse meat thermometer and popped the radiator cap and stuck it in the radiator opening. It read 160 degrees compared to the 200 on the two gauges.
So, it turns out the Charger wasn't running hot after all. It's the standard, multi-voltage Chrysler electrical system.
Just for giggles I pulled the radiator and brought it to the guy that recored it 12 years ago. He said it was already spotless inside and he didnt believe there was a temp problem but said he'd reverse flush it out anyway. He only charged me $20 for his time.
The reason I never installed a mechanical temp gauge for all these years was that I could never get that damn steel 3/4" pipe plug out of the water pump housing to install it. So I pulled the water pump housing and we tried to get the thing out. It had molecularly fused to the cast iron housing and basically stripped out the housing upon removal. Wonderful!
So I decided to buy the Mopar Performance alumimum housing from Mancini racing and a real Stewart Warner mechanical temp gauge with the 96" long capillary tube. I also bought a new 160 thermostat just for the hell of it.
I had dreaded trying to find a large enough, factory stamped hole in the firewall to run the capillary tube and nut through, but I was able to find one and it just eeked through.
Got it all installed and guess what? The car runs at about 155 degrees.
Turns out that the damn thing has been running cold all the time but the standard schizo dash and electrical system in this old Mopar has been throwing off the gauges for all these years.
Anyone who has ever had a mid-60's Mopar knows exactly what Im talking about. At night, the faster you drive, the brighter the headlights get. The readings on the dash gauges (as well as any device connected to the fuse box) all depend on what RPM you're running. It's like their readings are all an extrapolation based on the alternator's speed and engine's RPM. These cars use a non-adjustable, sealed, electronic voltage regulator. The only problem is that is regulates the voltage to a somewhat liberal range...oh, like between 1 and 14 volts.
So in the end, it's running fine. I celebrated by going to the local airport and buying 11 gallons of 100 octane leaded, avgas for about $41 (about $3.75 a gallon).
Here's the new aluminum water pump housing installed. The mechanical temp gauge fitting is in between the two heater hoses. The one other difference between the Mopar aluminum housing and the original cast iron one is the location of the factory temp gauge sender at the top right of the photo, near the power steering pump. On the cast iron housing it's below the alternator triangle bracket.
And here is the new, accurate mechanical gauge. Too bad I don't really need about 1/2 of the numbers on the right side:
