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Old 03-26-2019, 04:05 PM
Locker537 Locker537 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCam View Post
I've had it bolted before and that was great in my old shop, but in the current home shop I like being able to move it around from time to time and it's been inside, outside and back and forth between shops. I don't do much serious work while it's up high and always keep the locks set right with a little tension on the cables which keeps it steady. My floors are also quite level and the pads have never moved. Even still I am very careful and always walk around the lift to ensure all is sound and locks are on before ever venturing under a car while also ensuring the cables are taught. Safety is always of concern around my place and even when using jack stands, there is always redundancy in place.

If I was really going to be reefing or swaying the lift, I'd again add a couple Hilti anchors at each corner. I am told that they use dozens these lifts on the grass at Carlisle and change exhaust on Corvettes. I was further told that as long as there's weight on the cables, they are quite stable. I use this one for work only and don't store cars on it at height too often, but have at times used it for storage.

In terms of the 1/4" steel jack tray, I sometimes use a center point motorcycle jack that I bought for the tray, and when I need to support outer axle points or spring locations, I have a 1/4 steel plate that sits atop the jack tray to give me a stable base to use a bottle jack from...or to place jack stands. You have to be creative to use a 4 post for working on cars as it would seem. That's why I plan to add a two post lift in the next bay over.

A guy can never have too many lifts I am told.
Thanks Graeme! The motorcycle jack or one of those cross beam adapter accessories is an interesting idea!
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