![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#1
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I have finally got to the point where I am making forward progress and not just going in reverse correcting things. In defense of the previous owner, he started restoring it as a driver and wasn't too concerned about correctness. As his project stalled and the price of Z's went up he decided to stop and do it right. He never got past this point other than gathering up parts over the last few years. When I bought it off him the car had sat in the back of his shop for about 5 years. The engine had been rebuilt adn installed, the car painted, vinyl top installed. I took it back down to the firewall and started over. Here are a few shots to start with. I plan to show the whole process from here on. I hope for lots of constructive input from the experts as I don't consider myself to be one. I am learning as I go. My background was owning a 69 Chevelle SS 396 in high school and not having two nickles to rub together doing all the work to keep it running myself as every dime I had went in the gastank. I have also done a frame off on a 69 RS Covertible, a 66 Mustang and two joint projects with Sam Griffith (Mockingbird) a 70 442 and a 69 SS Chevelle Ragtop. This Z28 is a low mile 33,000 Phoenix car, I am the 4th owner, it is Daytona Yellow, White Vinyl Top, White Houndstooth Int, 4:10 rear, original engine, date code correct (3 months early) transmission, a deteriorating build sheet, found above the fuel tank, LA built car, no X code. Unfortunately the paint is already done, average paint with improper white stripes. I plan to leave the stripes white for the present time and possibly correct them down the road. It will be slow going the next month or two as I am working a LOT of overtime, but need the money for parts. Hopefully what I post will inspire someone to get on their project because if I can do it with my mediocre mechanical skills in my garage so can you.
![]() ![]() ![]() Eng Stamp Pad ![]() ![]() ![]() More to follow
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Dave ![]() |
#2
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I stripped down the upper half of the firewall due to the large number of runs, looking for the hidden vin, there is none below the heaterbox (comments on that?) and the fact that the trim tag had been sanded down to bare metal. There are a few more holes in the firewall than I like, I almost had them repaired but left them as is, there is a large hole drilled approx 4-5 inches below the heater box, a couple of drill holes above the heater box, I assume from the a mallory ignition box or equivillant. There are a couple other drilled out holes over on the drivers side as well for lines to the various guages. According to what I was told this car sat on the lot for nearly a year, possibly due to the white top/black stipes. The 1st owner bought it and painted it black and raced it. I have some leads on the first owner and hope to track him down as soon as possible. Second owner drove the car until he was sent to prison and the third owner bought it about 12 years ago. I have know of the car for about 6 years. Here is the area where the hidden vin should be not the inch in diameter hole at the lower right:
![]() Engine Casting Number: ![]() Eng cast date: Mar 18 1969 ![]() 186 Heads: Mar 13 1969 ![]() Mar 14 1969, the heads are one day apart and 4 and 5 days prior to the eng respectively: ![]() Don't have the right distributor so.... if anyone has one let me know!
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Dave ![]() |
#3
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Can anyone breakdown the radiator tag. I plan on having it pressure checked, straighten the fins and thats all I think it needs. Oh, and get all the dog hair out of it, the radiator was just a mat of dog hair. Does anyone have a good radiator repair shop in the east valley, or Phoenix if no-one knows any good shops in the east valley.
![]() ![]() BV rear, supposedly the original born with 4:10, 28 Mar Detroit and I can't read the last letter/number(does anyone know what it might be.. E below the date code designates a Eaton Poistraction diferential. I will try and get some better pics of the rear stamping when I get a chance. ![]() Note the Chambered Exhaust: ![]() 69 Camaro 12 Bolt: ![]()
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Dave ![]() |
#4
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Look to see if the vin is @ the cowl location,can you show a pic of the trim tag?
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#5
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The partial vin is up on the cowl area, I will post a pic of that and the TT, when I get a chance.
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Dave ![]() |
#6
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Can anyone breakdown the radiator tag.
UH is the Std. radiator used on 302cid Z/28 Camaro & 350/260HP L-65 AC equipped Camaro during 69. IH & CB are the tanks codes. 59 is a quality control # I believe. That looks like a service tag from a shop called Burtons Rad.Not a Harrison or Ass.line item. |
#7
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Thanks Rick,
Here is a crappy pic of the TT, I will post a better one when I can get some daylight lighting in a couple days. ![]() Here is the partial vin on the cowl area: ![]()
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Dave ![]() |
#8
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Great work so far! Thanks for posting up your pics!
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible ![]() |
#9
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[ QUOTE ]
I stripped down the upper half of the firewall due to the large number of runs, looking for the hidden vin, there is none below the heaterbox (comments on that?) FYI: Currently working on a 05A LOS 69 Camaro, also no 2nd. vin# @ blower motor hole. I think this is somewhat common on LOS Camaro's ![]() Nice work ![]() ![]() Cold Mike ![]() |
#10
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My JL8 car is an 04A Van Nuys car and I don't recall finding the VIN by the heater either so I wouldn't worry about it.
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69 Z28 JL8, #'s match - being restored |
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