Plating question

MikeA · #1 10-02-2005, 06:03 PM

Are there any recommendations on the methods that I should use to dark phosphate plate bolts, etc? Should I paint them with Eastwood products or use Eastwood’s at home “plating” kit or should I try to find a vendor that does this plating locally? What do you guys do?

**SS427** · #2 10-02-2005, 06:16 PM

Mike,
Depending on the car/customer, I use either the Eastwood kit which I am very happy with or I send them to Steve Gregori. Both have excellent results. Since Steve does all my yellow cad, zinc and grey phosphate, it is easiest just to send him the black phosphate as well. Small items like bolts are best if I do them so they don't get lost and I know where they originally came from. Hard to keep track when you send hundreds of bolts to a plater.
Rick

Bruce · #3 10-02-2005, 07:49 PM

Mike
Another method is to use gun blueing solution, bead blast your bolts, and then dip them for 10-15 seconds in the solution,( they will turn black) rinse with water, I then use a heat gun to dry them and then spray with WD-40,or any light oil. Then let them set for a bit.
Have had good results.

**firstgenaddict** · #4 10-03-2005, 05:23 AM

Palmetto Enterprises... Vernon Owens dells the phosphating kits... I have seen his name mentioned on here before.
If no one has his number ... I will find it tomorrow.

MikeA · #5 10-03-2005, 05:07 PM

Thanks guys for the information. I have Vernon Owens phone number somewhere.

NCGuy68 · #6 10-04-2005, 12:42 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Palmetto Enterprises... Vernon Owens dells the phosphating kits...

[/ QUOTE ]

I've been using their Parkerizing solution for years when I restore Muncie/Saginaw OEM shifters. Works quite well.

Keep in mind that its a "Hot" process. The solution is added to water and then heated to 185F and maintained there. You then 'cook' the parts in it until most of the bubbling stops. Its not a simple 'cold dip' as in gun blueing. It actualy etches the surface of the metal.

The key to long lasting results is to skip the water rinse and apply a high quality gun oil immediately after removing the parts from the bath. If you rinse in water and apply WD-40, you'll have rusted parts in a couple of months.

Feel free to ask questions - I've been doing it for over 15 years.

Palmetto Enterprises. (864)246-3836 for the Zinc Phosphate solution.

**copo69** · #7 10-04-2005, 05:12 AM

I've used Palmetto stuff too and it works fine. The different colors, gray, black, etc. are a result of the metal being used. Hood latches come out gray, bolts black. I use some stuff I got from ASL for oil. Just drop in, pull out and let dry.

P.J. · #8 10-08-2005, 07:30 AM

AMK inc. products sells origional bolts and kits
www.amkproducts.com
check it out
suprss70

MikeA · #9 10-08-2005, 11:18 PM

Pete,

Have purchased kits from them? If so, were you satisfied?

CamarosRus · #10 10-09-2005, 01:14 AM

I'm a proponent of Palmetto's chemicals. Using their MANGANESE Phosphate solution, I feel its dead on correct for fasteners, shift rods, and misc other parts. The ZINC Phosphate is applicable for Hood hinges, hood latch and the like.
I use Colman Camp fuel (bought at Walmart) in the one gallon can for a rinse. Can says it contains a rust inhibitor as well. After drying off on shop towel, I then spray and "massage" with BoeShield T-9 (order from www.BoatersDiscountWorld.com). Boesheild has been tested by Yachting Magazine for salt spray corrosion and is FAR, FAR superior to WD-40 and the others...........
I can go on and on with MANGANESE Phosphate coating for the two of you left reading, but who cares????????????

I Love ya man,

Chuck S

Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars.