Big Block Chev Starter Heat Shield Gm no. 3943647

[3macs1]

Were big block Camaro's fitted with the 3943647 stainless steel heat shield or was this a vet only item 68-74.What price range can one expect to pay for one nos
Thanks for the help

[Woj]

I'm pretty sure all big blocks used that heat shield. I believe Heartbeat City actually repops the stainless heat shield for about $200. NOS ones are very rare. Expect to pay dearly.

Phil Woj.

[3macs1]

Thanks for the info

[Rixls6]

There were more than one version. I believe the later NOS ones are made of galvanized steel which look dull.
The originals are a fairly shiny stainless.
I have 3 different ones. 2 are stainless with slight differences in their shape, the 3rd being the same shape as one of the others, but a galvanized steel finish.

[bertfam]

The heat shield didn't start for the Camaro until the 1969 model year.

There's no reason to go to Heartbeat city and pay $200.00 for a repop when you can get the exact same thing from Paragon for $25.00! And you can get the special nut as well.

Starter Heat Shield

Special Nut

Ed

[nuch_ss396]

Many years ago, this was the first topic I posted here

I dug into this as deeply as I could. I too have both
stainless & galvanized steel versions of the heat shield.
My findings seemed to indicate that the SS version came on
the Corvettes only. Though I can't imagine why.

As I recall, it was one of the first "useless" items us
know-it-all's tossed once we pulled the starter.

They show up on ePay all the time.

Steve

[bertfam]

Steve,

There are actually two different part numbers for the shield. The Camaro is listed as using 3954224 and the Corvette as using 3943647. The P&A 34 (Camaro) doesn't list the material, but the P&A 30b (Corvette) states "SHIELD, solenoid (stainless steel)".

The paragon shield is the Corvette stainless version, so if the Camaro (Chevelle, Nova, etc...) shield is galvanized, then it would be incorrect for that usage. However, if someone's just wanting one for heat purposes, it would work just fine.

Ed

[PeteLeathersac]

Reminds me of that goofy extra support starter bracket that appeared on some Chevys around late '72...I hated that thing and always felt good tossing them too! .

~ Pete

[CamarosRus]

My 69 Big Block has Hooker Headers. After engine is hot, when I shut down engine (say to buy fuel) starter will not work. Does anybody know if the above Paragon shield will FIT with headers ........and if in fact it helps prevent the problem??????

Thanks,

[bertfam]

Chuck,

I was in the same boat as you with my 68. Wouldn't start after turning it off. I had to wait around 20 minutes or so before it would start again.

I bought the paragon shield, but it really didn't help that much. The original shielding is not for the starter, but for the solenoid, and most of the heat related problems stem from the starter itself. I ended up taking back several starters until I finally found one that would work when hot. I also have a 396 and Hooker Headers, so yes, it will fit if you decide to go that route.

A few suggestions I can pass along:

1. Don't have too much initial timing. This makes the starter have to push against a lot of compression and when the engine heats up, it's even more of a problem.

2. Use the shims that come with the starter. I found that just by adding or removing these, it really does make a difference. You may have to "play" before you get the right combination and it's not unusual to have to cut a shim in half for only one bolt hole.

3. Go with a name brand. I used an Auto ZOne remanufactured starter and had to go through several before I found one that would work when hot. Guys tell me that the NAPA starters are much better.

4. Better yet, go with a new "mini" starter unless you absolutely have to have original. These end the hot soak problems for good.

5. Go with the correct gauge battery cables or larger. Smaller gauge cables don't work very well.

6. Get the shortest cable you can for your application. Less resistance in short cables than long ones.

7. Not all batteries are alike. Cold Cranking Amps is not the same a Hot Cranking Amps and most batteries are rated at Cold Carnking Amps.

8. Keep all connections clean and tight.

Good luck
Ed