![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#1
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OK, after trying the search function for a half hour
![]() ALbert
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1969 9566AA COPO Chevelle M-22 1969 Malibu 489 ZL-1 T-56/4.56 1969 Beaumont 540 th400 3.70 1969 Chevelle 300 Deluxe 427 ZL-1 M 22W 1970 Olds 442 W 30 2 door post 1969 Ply. GTX 426 hemi auto. Blue. 1940 Dodge pick up Durango 4X4 1968 Camaro ragtop LSA ZL1 |
#2
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Here you go, MK Insurance, one of our fine sponsers.
<font color="red"> Tamra L Perto MK Insurance Agency Inc. 453 W Fullerton Avenue Elmhurst, IL 60126 (630) 617-9970 * Fax (630) 617-9777 Toll free: (866) 695-2774 </font>
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Tom Clary |
#3
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I've used State Farm. I lost a low mile '69 Pace Car car in 1992 and was prepared for a battle. They settled fairly with me, used a price guide and spoke with a local Classic Car dealer that verified the value. When you loose a car the responsibility to prove the value is on the owner.
The adjuster told me that this was a very easy claim to settle, he let me keep all of the paperwork on the car as they didn't want the window sticker, POP, build sheet, ect. He said the hard ones to settle are with the owners that have put $50,000 in a car and it is worth only $18,000. Just because you insure a car for $80,000 doesn't mean that you get this if it burns up, you must prove its value after the loss. I saved adds for similar vehicles, had magazine articles about my car, had a bill of sale from when I bought it 11 years before the loss stating the miles from the dealer that owned the car from new. All of this and more made my arguement for the value I declared at the time of loss. The insurance company is also responsible for paying taxes, title fees, and license fees to bring you back to whole. These fees should be paid on top of the value of the vehicle (may vary by State). This is something you may have to remind them of at the time of loss. |
#4
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The best way to insure a classic car is Agreed or Stated Value, done before hand. An appraisal of the car is done, the two parties agree on a value, and the insurance is written. Then, if the car is totalled, no hassle. Doing business with a company such as MK, that understands classic cars and their values, makes it a lot easier.
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Tom Clary |
#5
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Call Tammy....she knows her stuff....
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#6
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I'll give her a yell...thanks
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1969 9566AA COPO Chevelle M-22 1969 Malibu 489 ZL-1 T-56/4.56 1969 Beaumont 540 th400 3.70 1969 Chevelle 300 Deluxe 427 ZL-1 M 22W 1970 Olds 442 W 30 2 door post 1969 Ply. GTX 426 hemi auto. Blue. 1940 Dodge pick up Durango 4X4 1968 Camaro ragtop LSA ZL1 |
#7
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American Collectors
for over 17 yrs. |
#8
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I took all my car away from American Collectors. They would not provide coverage close to the appraised value. I had with them 13 years never a claim and they did not even attempt to reconcile the issue.
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Steve Shauger The Supercar Registry www.yenko.net Vintage Certification™ , Providing Recognition to Unrestored Muscle Cars. Website: www.vintagecertification.com |
#9
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Tim G - Did you have your car insured for it's actual collector car value or just as a 69 Camaro? I e-mailed Hargerty, or one of those you see advertised on Barrett-Jackson, and they qouted me $1,800 a year for a car (02 C5R ZL1) that would not be driven 250 miles a year, if that. Meanwhile the car would be sitting in a new house, gated neighborhood and on a lift. Seemed a litte high to me even though the stated value would be $125k (at least $25k less than it cost to build).
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#10
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I had a stated value policy with no prior apprasial. At the time of the loss I was very concerned, they agreed with the value after I presented my documentation. They settled quickly. They allowed me to keep all of the paperwork on the car. I still have it, but no car.
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