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#1
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Pulled the front seat out of my survivor 80 Z28 yesterday.
I knew the buildsheet was there because the previous owner pulled a piece out on accident when checking for valuables before shipping me the car. the sheet is in 3 major pieces, a few key small ones and five or six scraps. I puzzled together most of it and its all there. I usually take these to a document restorer to have them taken care of. I plan on doing the same with this one. Here is the question. Normally i have a one or two piece sheet. After this is restored should i have them try to attach the puzzles back? I have always been told to avoid lamination so i am looking for suggestions. thanks in advance. JOHN |
#2
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don't laminate... put it in an acid free photo mount and keep it out of the light...
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#3
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[ QUOTE ]
don't laminate... put it in an acid free photo mount and keep it out of the light... [/ QUOTE ] I know not to laminate, but do i place the pieces in an acid free photo mount, or have them profesionally piece it back together? that is the question. Thanks, JOHN PS do you have a shot of a BS in the described photo mount? |
#4
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John:
I would not have it put back together. What I have been using are two-sided glass frames for tank stickers and buildsheets. They are relatively inexpensive ($12.00) and you can buy them at Walmart. The beauty is they are the ultimate in acid-free enclosure and they allow you to position the pieces while easily seeing through the glass back side. In addition, they look very trick and usually come with a black wood frame. Also, the paperwork is easily removed. Ed
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... some old Chevrolets and Pontiacs. |
#5
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Ed, thanks for the reply. I would go that route, but because it is in at least 15 pieces and has multiple folds, yet all there with big chunks for the options etc I went ahead and had the pro i use give it the "gold" treatment. While this is going to cost over $250 on a car that only currently is worth in the low 20's I love the cars to much to quibble over the return on my investment in this process.
So here is what the restoration expert is doing. "Humidify, flatten, and mount on Japanese tissue in correct registration. De acidify." I am confident that it will come out better than i could have ever done. Thanks again for the tip, and if i ever have one that is just a few flat pieces, that will be the route I take. Regards, JOHN ![]() |
#6
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OK, so i got the build sheet back after restoration. It is missing a segment,which I am going to double check for, but i also have the original dealer order form. I think i have what came on the car covered.
He did a great job! He mounted it to Japanese rice paper with archival starch paste, leaving the face exposed. It has been humidified, and deacidified. Cost.............expensive $250 but I like the cars more than i like the money and since this is a cool survivor I cut no corners.(not that i ever do ![]() JOHN I will have bruce post a before and after. Remember this was crispy and in a lot of pieces. |
#7
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I think i have what came on the car covered. [/ QUOTE ] John, GM Vintage Services should have a copy of your build sheet on file. |
#8
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Thanks, Bimbi I was reading about that on the site last week. i guess since i already spent the $ I might as well get the copy of it.
Thanks Gusto |
#9
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[ QUOTE ]
OK, so i got the build sheet back after restoration. It is missing a segment,which I am going to double check for, but i also have the original dealer order form. I think i have what came on the car covered. He did a great job! He mounted it to Japanese rice paper with archival starch paste, leaving the face exposed. It has been humidified, and deacidified. Cost.............expensive $250 but I like the cars more than i like the money and since this is a cool survivor I cut no corners.(not that i ever do ![]() JOHN I will have bruce post a before and after. Remember this was crispy and in a lot of pieces. [/ QUOTE ] Here are the pics that John wanted me to post... ![]() Before: ![]() After: ![]()
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
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