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#1
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Rear Brake Hose Removal - Advice appreciated
Shouldn't be a difficult task - but... After cleaning off some under coating gunk I find my brake line into the rear brake hose is armored. The armored line is preventing me from getting a line wrench onto the nut. I'm not going to round off any more brake line nuts. I'd appreciate your tips or experienced solutions. Thanks!
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#2
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The armor is probably locked in due to the undercoat. If you wipe on some old traditional GO JO hand cleaner, that will break down the undercoating. You may have to let it sit and reapply multiple times. After that, you should be able to slide the armor back enough to get the line wrench on it.
Tim |
#3
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And you're going to have to remove the coating all the way around the bend to get it to retract much. I can see the inside radius of the coils is pretty much touching now.
That is CRAZY thick undercoating ! I don't know how you feel about using lacquer thinner on a rag, but it may speed up the breakdown process some.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#4
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Wow - having just gone through a similar exercise on my Chevelle I feel for you. I gave up and ended up putting a new front to rear line and hose on mine.
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#5
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If you can’t clean and pull back far enough for line wrench don’t use a standard open end wrench. You can get a better grip using a 8” or 10” handled adjustable sinched tightly on the fitting. Once loose you can used standard open end.
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#6
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The craftsman wrenches for rounded nuts WORK GREAT on rounded flare fittings. They grip on the flats.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#7
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If you do retract the armor far enough to get a line wrench on it the fitting may still be frozen to the line. Soak liberally with PB Blaster for a few days. Then put the line wrench on and then clamp across the end of the wrench with vice-grips. this will compress the end of the line wrench enough to take out any slack
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70Z28 04B Norwood Forest Green-white Stripes Black DeLuxe Interior Owned since 1978 - First Car |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BCreekDave For This Useful Post: | ||
69M22Z (03-29-2022), Too Many Projects (03-29-2022) |
#8
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Quote:
Yeah, I forgot to say that, soak the bejeezuz out of the threads while getting the coating off. Clamping the end of the wrench sounds like a reasonable idea, but there isn't much room for that. Hope it works for him.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#9
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Thanks SYC community !
Hearing how others managed similar replacements helps a lot. The PB Blaster is applied. I will try a careful turn with an adjustable wrench... you never know. Then (uughh) I'll tackle some undercoat clean off, but who knows how far back that cleaning would have to go ! If other ways fail, it may be a brake line replacement, but now I worry about how this under coat crap may conspire to cause problems with that. Ending on a positive note, the undercoat did do it's job to protect the undercarriage as shown by my floorboards ! Hahaha Wedding confetti shook out when seat was removed. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Diamond_Don For This Useful Post: | ||
69M22Z (03-29-2022), PeteLeathersac (03-29-2022) |
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