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#1
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So I finally got Ribbon COPO out to the strip this past weekend (first time I've ever drove a stick down the strip), and was disappointed with 4 passes all around 13.70. I was running slicks, and it has a pretty nasty bog when launching, even with the RPM's up in the mid 3000's. Tires didn't break loose at all.
I know we jetted the secondaries up at one point, and at that throttle position, the secondary accelerator pump is probably out of the picture. Timing is around 17, almost 40 at 3500 RPM. It runs fine on the street. Its got a built 396 (11.5:1), 4 speed and 4.10 rear. My buddy did have a high 12 pass with it, and he didn't shift it too well. I assume it just needs more RPM's at the line... but how high is safe? I'm not looking to break anything. I'd hate to damage its KQ rear. Also, any chance of hurting anything since it has ladder bars, or do those actually help? Thanks! |
#2
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I've got a 65 Malibu SS with a 327 and a 4 speed. It has been quite a while since I've had it at the track, but I was always of the opinion if you've got slicks- You leave at the smae RPM you shift at.
If the car is in good enough mechanical shape to race, you shouldn't break anything other than breaking into the 12's. |
#3
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Hey, I just wanna say, is that a blast driving that 4-speed down the strip or what?! I've raced 9-second Drag Radial cars in competition but they always 'Glides or Turbo 400's. When I blasted down the strip in my 11-second '55 Chevy with the stick shift, I couldn't believe how much fun it was! It made me realize that this.......is what I've been missing from my life. A clutch pedal at the drags!
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1962 Biscayne O-21669 MKIV/M-22 1962 Bel Air Sport Coupe 409/1,000 |
#4
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My 67 Camaro, basically stock 350 with 3.42's on slicks with a 4 speed M20. I launch the car at 5,000-5,500 rpm. Dead hooks.
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Day 2 is Life. |
#5
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Put a little more air in the slicks and come out higher. 3000 rpm with slicks is a little low.
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#6
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If worried about hurting the original rear, which is very possible leaving at 5000 or so, with slicks and a stick, I would put a set of street tires on it, which will spin when leaving, making it much easier on the RE, will allow your motor to rev (making power) and as you get used to it, you will still be able to turn some very respectable times.
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Tom Clary |
#7
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There is a chance your rims are spinning on the tires. I used to have that happen before I screwed the slicks to the rims.
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#8
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After I trip the 2nd staging light I put my heel on the brake pedal and using my toes I begin to bring my rpms up to where I want to launch... then I pay attention to the tree...
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#9
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I've never tried the "heel-toe" method, but maybe I should have because I've rolled out of the lights many times..........ESPECIALLY at Broadway Bob's in Union Grove where the starting line is on a HILL. I know that track has a lot of history and people love it, but for me, it's the worst place I've ever run. I rolled back out of the staging lights THREE times before I finally kept my foot on the brake until the yellows came down, then had to HURRY back to the gas, set my launch rpm, then forget about timing the launch on the lights. By the time I was ready, the green was already on. They should have a sign in the pits saying, "line-lock required"!
I know I'll get flamed for my opinion and people will testify that they ran there with no problems, but my experience was terrible in '83. Verne ![]() |
#10
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My first vote would be to throw on a historically correct Hurst Link Lok, but the other option is set the e-brake just enough to prevent the roll and creep through the prestage lights to light the stagine ones.
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