Need advice and info on a 1969 Camaro z10

[garycharlton1960]

Hi everyone I am new to this forum. I am needing some advice and information on the 1969 Camaro z10. For the last several years I have been working for a gentleman maintaining his cars and motorcycles. He has a collection of about 30 cars and 15 motorcycles. Well he passed away recently and his wife has asked me to help her with the shop and to sell some of the cars. One of these cars is a 1969 z10. As far as I know everything is original except someone put headers, an Edelbrock intake and carb. on it. It has the wrong valve covers and wrong air cleaner. Other then that it is all pretty much original. I am wanting first is to find some pictures of a correct OEM engine bay. Before I put the car on the market I want to replace the engine components that are incorrect. I am also wanting to find online someone to appraise the car. Also if any of you happen have any OEM parts I need I will buy theme. Here are a few photos of the car.

[69VN]

Hi Gary and welcome to the forum. There are many people here that can assist you with proper knowledge and everything you need as far as parts to put that engine compartment back the way it was when it left the factory. Have you located any paperwork or build sheets for the car? It would be a plus!

Sal [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[garycharlton1960]

Thanks for the input and the welcome. I have always used the forums for what ever car or bike I'm building at the time. I am surprised that I didn't come across this forum sooner. You can bet that I will be on here quite a bit for a long time.

[William]

It’s had at least some restoration work. Front fenders have likely been replaced; ‘Camaro’ ‘SS’ and ‘350’ badging is missing. The D96 fender striping is missing and the rear striping was done incorrectly. Outside rear view mirrors are incorrect. Radio antenna appears to be aftermarket.

In the engine bay photos the car appears to have factory A/C but the seal is missing from the top of the core support. The holes for the seal are not present so it was likely also replaced. The washer bottle and fan are not original. Virtually everything visible on the engine is not original. The engine may not be original.

The interior photo shows special instrumentation but no clock indicating the gauges were added or the dash cluster was replaced. There appears to be some aftermarket button added to the left side of the dash. Console is broken in front of the rear ash tray cover.

All Z10s were built at the Norwood, Ohio plant. There will not be any assembly documentation concealed in the car.

With the possible exception of the engine the deficiencies can be corrected. It is an interesting, nicely optioned Z10.

[garycharlton1960]

Thanks for the input. I don't know when he acquired the car, what condition it was in or what he may have done to it. I did find an inspection receipt with his name and the mileage from 1994. I would like to come across some photos of a correct engine bay. He wasn't too concerned about accuracy because he had no plans of ever selling any of his cars or bikes. He also wouldn't accept that he was dying so he would not discuss with me or his wife about the cars. I'm trying to sort out his '69 Chevelle 2 dr. post SS car to see if it is real or a clone. I don't want to misrepresent anything and I don't want to get clone price for an authentic car. The Z10 is no doubt a Z10, I just want to put it the way it is supposed to be. Then engine should have a partial vin.# I know where they put them on the BBC's but not the SBC's. But that is easy info to find. You seem to have a lot of knowledge on the Z10. I'm sure I will be asking a lot of questions. I am currently on the tail end on restoring a 1958 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham. When I get that out of the shop I will have more time to focus on these cars. Thanks again.

[William]

The partial VIN was stamped into the vertical flange on the side of the block by the oil filter. It's as cast, not machined smooth. The stamping can be very faint and difficult to read.

The engine code will be on the machined pad under the alternator; much easier to read. Code for a 350/Turbo is HB; HE for a 350/Powerglide.

[Kurt S]

Bill has an eye for details.
Post up the engine code. That tells a lot.
Originally that was a 729 white houndstooth interior. Changed to black houndstooth.

As I told you via email, I don't see the originality - it's been mucked with. But the bones look good. Prove that it's original drivetrain and that strengthens the value.
http://www.camaros.org/drivetrain.shtml

[garycharlton1960]

Ok I got a good photo of the Tonawanda stamp. T0414HB. The partial vin I can make out 3 of the numbers. The actual vin is 124379n631752. I can make out some but not all of the numbers. I do believe it is numbers matching. I will try to get it to show up better sometime today. Next to the Tonawanda stamp is 020 that half is under the head. I'm assuming that someone stamped that later indicating .020 over size bore.

[Lynn]

You might want to consider just selling all the cars as is. Takes a lot to get one perfect. Special interest cars will bring decent money even when they aren't perfect. Making it perfect will be a labor of love for the new owner. Even with all the things William mentioned, that Z10 is already very close to the point of diminishing returns when it comes to making it better just to be able to sell at a higher price. Someone aching to buy a Z10 will want the car. Like Kurt said, if it has the original drive train, that is what is going to drive the price up more than anything else. If it doesn't have the original engine, you would be throwing money away making it look more original.

[garycharlton1960]

Lynn, you're absolutely right. This car needs a frame up restoration. Its numbers matching and the car well deserves to be done right. I can do that but someone with the passion to build and keep the car will want it just like it sets. It's all there except for a few parts that are fairly easy to obtain. Personally I would love to do this car but I got too much to do as it is.
Now, where does a person start on what to ask? I have been using NADA to get an idea of the value of the cars and motorcycles I work with because their site is easier to navigate through. But they are higher than giraffe ears on most classics.
Also, if you put 1997 Chevrolet Camaro Z10 and go directly to the NADA value from the search engine you get a quote of around $61,000.00. If you go into NADA from their home page and navigate through their site to the value. When you factor in the RS/SS options A/C etc. etc. they throw out a value of $112,000.00.
So where does one start? If I list it in the classifieds here I have to list a price. I don't want to start too high and I don't want to start too low.
I already have one strike against me. Two weeks ago I sold the 2000 Ford Lightning pick-up that my boss had. It had 17,000.0 actual miles on it and was like new. NADA listed high retail at $13,300.00 based on the low miles. I sold the truck for $16,000.00. Two days later someone contacts the bosses wife to buy the truck and when they were told it sold they tell her they would have given $20,000.00 for it. A couple days later an identical truck with 1700.0 miles sells on eBay for $28,500.00 I shot myself in the foot. Anyway so much for my flying finger of fate. I am a mechanic with a passion for old cars and bikes. I'm helping my boss and close friend that is no longer here to see over this stuff. He wasn't gone one day and the vultures were already there. So now, besides turning wrenches I'm playing salesman. Thanks guys for all your input, sorry about the whining and rambling. I'll be posting here on the classifieds and give eBay a shot.