Building a modern ZL-1

[69SSRSL89]

I'm looking into building a modern ZL-1 engine for a future project. I have the new ZL-1 block at home in the crate and I'm looking into using GM performance parts aluminum heads does anyone have any advice on which heads to go with. I'd like to use a solid roller lifter and build something with some decent hp. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I was also going to ask if there is a big difference between the 7115 crank and the 6223 crank. I have a lead on a 7115, but wanted to know if there was any real big plus to get a 7115 over a 6223 when building this engine. They both seem to have the same stroke. So, I didn't know it there was much else to make it work while to hold out for the 7115. I apprecaite any help I can get with this. Thanks in advance. This site is the greatest Jesse

[Alss]

Built one a cople of years ago as a 454 and it made some decent HP..ask John Platania ..getting ready to do another..have a new block and some good old 074 heads,may try making a 496 out of it if there is enough room in the block. I used a solid roller in the previous one and it was a stormer...dammit why did I sell that car !!!

ALbert

note: block uses bowtie block components for the lifters and timing chain

[DarrenX33]

I think everyone who as owned that car has said the same thing. I myself say "why didn't I buy that car?"

[69SSRSL89]

Thanks for the info on the car that you built with the solid rollers it's good to know that someone else has done it and it worked well for them. I think I remember a thread about that car or it being mentioned in a thread a while back. Was it a hugger orange RS car with cragers on it? If it was it looked very nice. Does anyone know what the differnce was between the two cranks (6223 and the 7115) and if there is any advantage to spending more money for the 7115 crank? I'd like to built 500hp plus at the flywheel with this engine if things work out the way I want them too. By the way Al and Darren I wanted to say you guys had some nice looking cars at the SCR9. I enjoyed checking them out. Jesse

[Kim_Howie]

The 6223 crank is a 396 crank & the 7115 is a 427 crank. The only difference is the balance. The 7115 the width on the counter weight is 7/8 thick vs 7/16 on the 396 crank. The reason was because the 396 pistons were lighter. Since your going to balance the motor both cranks will work.

[VintageMusclecar]

Jesse;

If your target is 500+ HP at the flywheel, there's no real need for the more expensive 7115 crank, nor the roller cam. You can make 500+ easily with a mild flat tappet cam and the 6223 crank, and the engine should be about as reliable as an anvil.

FWIW, solid rollers can be a somewhat risky proposition on a street build. Most solid rollers are predominantly oiled by splash lubrication, and the normal sustained low-rpm operation of a street engine doesn't provide much in the way of splash oiling.

If you have your heart set on a roller cam, there are a couple of options which can give you a little "insurance", namely either Crower roller lifters with the "HPPO" option ("high pressure pin oiling"), or the Isky "Red Zone" lifters, both of which have pressurized oiling to the roller wheels & needle bearings. The main difference between the 2 is the Iskys can be sent back and rebuilt, while the Crowers can not.

While some people may shy away from a flat tappet cam in light of so many recent cam failures, that issue can basically be eliminated by using EDM lifters, removing the inner valve springs for cam break-in, and using an engine oil that still has a decent zinc content such as Rotella.

Just throwing a few options out to consider.

Eric