Construction Question???

[Zedder]

We have made a deal on a new house and are having it constructed over the next year. It has an attached 3-car garage (we're in the city) and I am going to have them build a wall with a door between the two-car garage and the third bay to keep the bikes, garden stuff and garbage cans away from my cars (when I get some again one day after paying for this darn house ). The builder was going to build the framed/drywall wall rght on the slab but I don't think that is a good idea for fear of mold and rot from any potential moisture. I have suggested that they build a cement curb between the two bays and build the wall on top of that given that it is not a load bearing wall. Does this make sense??? Any better suggestions out there? Thanks in advance

[TDW]

Mabey lay 1 row of block to build the wall on.

[Zedder]

Good idea Tony...hey, glad to see you posting. I hope you are doing well. I've been thinking of you and saying a few words before bed time on your behalf

[LVCamaro]

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Mabey lay 1 row of block to build the wall on.

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...staple construction plastic sheathing to the studs then sheat the wall with that green colored 5/8" water barrier gypsum board commonly used in bathroom/kitchen areas.

[Zedder]

Thanks Steve...that's another good idea! The reason behind concern is that I have seen what moisture can do to frame construction. We had a sprinkler pipe breat at work and the office had 2 inches of water on the floor when we came in the next morning. Believe it or not, when we had moisture tests done, they found that the water had wicked up the drywall 4 ft!!! So maybe a combination of a block base with the green drywall will put my mind at ease given that the garden hose and my kids might be out there together

[BBIGG BLOCK 396]

You can also put a layer of tar paper(THE THICK ONE I BELIEVE IT IS RATED 30#) the same width under the bottom plate of the wall,also use ground contact treated 2X4 for the bottom plate of the wall.That will limit any moisture from coming in contact with the 2X4 bottom Plate!Then use the plastic sheating If you wish on the lower part of the wall but I do not think it would be necessary.It would be a good idea to use the green sheetrock in that area due to possible contact of water.I used to frame homes years and years ago and that was a requirement to use the 30# felt or tar paper on FHA homes.We did not use the treated lumber because it was not readily availiable back then but it is now so I would use that. The contractor should use a heavy plastic put over the dirt before he pours the concrete.This is also a moisture barrier and will prevent moisture from coming up through the cement.If you just want to spend the extra $$$ for the concrete curb or stub wall to lay the bottom plate on.I would think it is going to be just like a curb if layed directly on top of your existing slab,it is going to crack and move with much contact.Although if your contractor sets the forms for it during the initial pour you could make it to where it is a part of your regular slab which would be much stronger and they a can also install some 1/2" bolts to hold the bottom plate for the wall down also.

[71-LS6]

Mark, if your builder's concrete man is any good, a 4" curb is a no brainer. My guys would charge maybe $200 at most and that would be all labor. You're right about water wicking up framed walls with sheetrock. If you are worried about rot, simply use treated lumber and water-board for the wall, stay away from any plastic vapor barrier behind the rock, you want it to be able to dry out after you've soaked it down with your garden hose.

[LVCamaro]

Tyvek

[JoeG]

Murphy's Law--You worry about the water at the floor and the ceiling leaks--If you decide to go with a cement curb and it's not part of the intial slab pour--Make sure you put 1/2 threaded rods into the cement floor to run up thru your cement curb so it doesn't walk.--IMO green board on a vapor barrier sheetunder the floor plate with treated wood will probably outlast you......