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#1
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I was sold on U-Coat-It but I have heard the Lowes Rustoleum epoxy and prep does a great job too. And the Lowes system cost about 50% less than the U-Coat-It. Anybody had any experience with either? Got to do a work room to for a total of about 1,000 sq. ft.
I will prep it right!
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99 HOSS HT 02 SS Blk 1LE A4 02 **** ZL1 Phase II+ 02 SS 23mi. 500 ci |
#2
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10 years ago I did my floor in Rustoleum 2 part epoxy...prep is the key...it still looks decent...tires or grease or ...nothing seems to affect it except for carbide snow mobile studs !!! Got rid of those long ago....you may gaet a small chip if you drop a heavy tool on it ....its as tough as steel though...
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#3
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any additional suggestions on prep? besides instrutions on rustoleum booklet. thanks johnny katt
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#4
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That was the worst part...make sure it is very very clean and degreased...especially an old floor...I had to use Muriatic acid...careful....and rinse the living crap out of it and let it gas off a few days or a week...any pores with acid in them will create a small bubble during epoxy cure...I put mine on real smooth with a squeegee...don't get trapped in a corner !
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#5
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NEW FLOOR,HADN'T HAD A CHANCE TO EVEN FINISH WIRING THE BUILDING
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#6
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Let the concrete CURE and keep it CLEAN for a good while and you should wind up with a perfect floor...but let the concrete cook itself out...
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#7
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![]() I had a problem with a floor that was pored in the winter. They added Calcium to keep the concrete from freezing. The finish started blistering a few months later. If your floor was poured in the winter it will have to sealed before coating it. I am finding this out the Hard Way….
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Kentucky Gold 70 SS/RS L78. 81 Z/28 Silver/Silver Int 09 G8/GXP #992 98 Pontiac GTP Daytona Pace Car #605 90 Olds Touring Sedan SUPRCHRGD L32 83 El Camino |
#8
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I think Rustoleum makes a sealer. I was planning on using it just in case. I'm thinking about a fairly light color and putting some of the colored flecks in it. I would like to do a dark color but they just don't reflect enough like when you are under a car. Do they?
My garage floor has been poured for about two months and I won't have it painted until May. I'll give it plenty of time before putting a car on it. I'm putting in two lifts and I'm thinking about painting it before installing the lifts. Or maybe I should put the lifts in first??
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99 HOSS HT 02 SS Blk 1LE A4 02 **** ZL1 Phase II+ 02 SS 23mi. 500 ci |
#9
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Just be careful slididn the lifts around or throwing around the steel when it gets installed. Did you happen to use the fiber re-inforced concrete ?? That would stop the problems with spalling that 70 L78 is having...
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#10
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[ QUOTE ]
I'm putting in two lifts and I'm thinking about painting it before installing the lifts. Or maybe I should put the lifts in first?? [/ QUOTE ] If you are getting your basic four post lifts, most come with wheels to roll them around for positioning. As long as your driveway is level, you can assemble them in the driveway and then roll them into position. I would finish the floor before putting in the lifts, and roll them in over some cardboard to their final resting place.
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