![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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I agree with dave. I medium grit glass bead and 000 or 0000 steel wool pulls the shine and the oil in the wool helps rtect the aluminum. Speed bead by TP tools works well too. Way faster that glass bead. I usually finish with plastic media to tone the finish a bit.
Jason |
#2
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Almost everybody but Mr "M" misses the point. Not sure if any blasting is always neccessary, but the vibrating, tumbling action in a aluminum or ceramic media with a detergent solution, does all the work, whilst the "NEW SKIN" is being formed.
Members who live in larger metropolitan areas, may be able to find machine shops or deburring vendors who have this tumbling/vibrator. Many parts rebuilders (any that are left in USA) have them to restore misc core parts........... This isnt rocket science......if you make some phone calls & google some searches!!!!!!!
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Chuck Sharin [email protected] Auburn,WA (30 miles South of Seattle) 70 Camaro R/S Z-28, L-78, R/S SS 69 Camaro COPO "recreation" |
#3
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The media used in the tumbler takes time to figure out. Dozens of different cermaic media to pick from. Also the cycle time on how long its tumbled is important or your part will come out looking like chrome. And if not carefull, you can remove the numbers and logos.
Took me about 3-4 months to break the code on doing them correctly. What's nice when the parts are done, is they won't look dirty again, dust and dirt don't stick to parts as it would when glass beading and you just wipe it down with a paper towel and brake clean. Low maintanance. Jerry |
#4
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Again thanks for all the input.That's what makes this site so good and informative.And if you 've noticed I have my Caps Lock off.Some members got their underwear in a knot over it.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkDf7PPRzJ0 |
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