Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Dude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So whats your plan? Your frame will look exactly like it does now if you powdercoat it. If you paint it you can fill in the pitting, but that will involve a ton of work. If it was me Id find a nice rust free frame from out west. </div></div>

This is the decision I am pondering and researching.........I very much want to use the original frame, I want to keep the car original as much as possible, but a southern frame would be a perfect starting point to blast and powder coat......

I appreciate the feedback, I am making plans to visit another powder coater locally and will bring a control arm as an example.

Ryan

[DW31S]

I'd say take your time, finish the metal on the original frame. Time is on your side. No frames are perfect and you can do that amount of body work yourself (with the lad). A good paint can be used when you have it nice and smooth. You don't plan to powder coat the body do you? Of course not, so with what I hear you plan to do with the car, I'd say refinish, block, prime, block, prime, ..........and when your satisfied paint it. Then you can say it is the ORIGINAL FRAME AND YOU AND YOUR SON DID IT! Spend that powder coat money on some go-fast parts.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Duly noted, Dave: you have confidence in a guy who has fixed hundreds of paint robots and never painted anything with a gun:-)

I really appreciate the help guys!!!

Steve Minore called me to check in, also Dan Vasic and I had a good chat to help me keep my bearings:-)

The original frame is the only frame, the soul of this old car is staying in tact even if it's not perfect. (I have a reasonable tolerance for imperfection)

Ryan

[The Dude]

It sounds like you are going are going to keep the original frame, so Id check the integrity of the metal from the axle kickup to the rear and the kickout behind the front tires. Before going any futher Id check to see how thin the metal is in those area. In reality pitting is where the metal is thin and the worse the pitting the thinner the metal.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Dude</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It sounds like you are going are going to keep the original frame, so Id check the integrity of the metal from the axle kickup to the rear and the kickout behind the front tires. Before going any futher Id check to see how thin the metal is in those area. In reality pitting is where the metal is thin and the worse the pitting the thinner the metal. </div></div>

Will do.

Ryan

[Bill Pritchard]

Awesome work, Ryan. Between all the work on the car, photo documentation, and posting it all on this site, it seems to me like you would have no time to do anything else (such as work, sleep, eat, etc) [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif[/img]

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Pritchard</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Awesome work, Ryan. Between all the work on the car, photo documentation, and posting it all on this site, it seems to me like you would have no time to do anything else (such as work, sleep, eat, etc) [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/laugh.gif[/img] </div></div>

Hi Bill: I also work, sleep, and eat too much:-)

Ryan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Got a little time in the garage today:-)

Bought a pneumatic chisel, cut the rivets off the upper ball joints.

Made a terrible sketch to make a puller to press the bushings out of the control arms.

Ryan











Ryan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Had a great chat with another 69 Olds guy last night.

Chris Thibert, he owns the Brown, gold, green 69 W-32 Convertible:-)

He has a non finned brake drum to add to the restoration, I want to get it blasted and powdercoated now as a spare:-)

Ryan

[Postsedan]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Dan