Just got the 10-10 '69 Z car! - Page 2

resto4u · #11 03-11-2009, 08:53 PM

I use boesheild rustfree. spray on and set a few mins. then use a gray or white scuff pad to help if needed. Then use a self-etch primer(spray can) and then a semi gloss paint. Then body shop suppliers have a blending agent in a spray can. Spray your paint, then use the blending agent to melt it into the existing finish. Makes spot in finishes almost disapear. It works good for spot blending in paints on the top side also. Roger

**njsteve** · #12 03-12-2009, 12:33 AM

By the way, after I did the SafestRustRemover process, I sprayed the areas with Boshield to keep them from re-rusting.

Tommy_Mathison · #13 03-20-2009, 07:05 AM

[ QUOTE ]
By the way, after I did the SafestRustRemover process, I sprayed the areas with Boshield to keep them from re-rusting.

[/ QUOTE ]

Everything I spray with Boeshield ends up rusting anyway. What the heck am I doing wrong?

RamAirDave · #14 03-20-2009, 08:11 AM

Boeshield is a nice product, but it's neither permanent nor bulletproof.

This was an extreme test/experiment under very harsh conditions. Both parts prepped exactly the same. One was treated with Boeshield (hint: it wasn't the distributor hold down clamp)

After one month, both held up pretty well considering:

After 5 months of rigorous winter weather:

**csx289** · #15 03-20-2009, 07:04 PM

Boeshield was designed to protect planes from moisture/humidity and the corrosion between dissimilar metals (aluminum/steel etc). It isn't meant to protect against salt spray or other corrosive materials/ harsh environments. In my use I have been quite pleased that bare metal items and even painted stuff like pinch welds and door lips never get nasty or bleed rust etc. I use it extensively on unrestored survivor type cars to protect original finishes. It isn't Rusty Jones, but I suppose since Rusty is dead he isn't really Rusty Jones any more either

Now, keep in mind that my cars rarely ever get wet, and never see a salted winter road or anything close. But living in Wisconsin the humidity is brutal and that is why I treat everything with Boeshield. Even though my building has two huge commercial dehumidifiers and was designed for car storage any time you park a car on a concrete floor (in a humid part of the country) you will have issues on bare metal and the like. For example, Boeshield does a great job on exhausts, and after they get hot I will spray them again if the car will be sitting for an extended period.

If you want the ultimate in rust protection the old British "Waxoyl" yellow snot rustproofing is tops, and Eastwood repackages it and sells it as something who's name I can't recall but it is available in gallons and aerosol spray cans. I use a similar product from Wurth that is available in tan, yellow, and now black - it is a creeping snot stuff not like an undercoating. I have a pressure pot gun with a 7' nylon tube attached that has a 360 degree nozzle on the end and can be run down Cobra frame tubes, inside GM doors and frames, etc. This is what I also use on my daily drivers, plow trucks, etc and it is simply awesome. My 2004 GMC has not a spec of rust anywhere and it sees hard winter use. My little Jeep plow truck has been sprayed with this every season and in spring the floors can be wiped clean to expose shiny paint.

It all boils down to picking the right product for the job. Boeshield is great for preserving proper finishes and the like but not for a daily driver. And, I like that it is invisible. Great for aluminum intakes, hardware, bare steel drive shafts, etc.!

Hope this helps.
Colin

Jim Ferron · #16 03-20-2009, 11:46 PM

Whatever rust you find would never amount to anything in our liftimes...I'm sure you won't be exposing the car to salt..and you tell me, you gonna drive it in the rain? Didn't think so...

One thing I've used that works really well and is easy is rust-mort.. buy a bottle and put a generic spray hed on the bottle [like off a fantastic bottle]

turns the rust black...since the frame/chassis is supposed to be black..it blends in pretty well.

Do NOT undercoat the car...

2 cents worth..

**Xplantdad** · #17 03-21-2009, 02:44 AM

Awesome information Colin!

x Baldwin Motion · #18 03-21-2009, 03:22 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Boeshield was designed to protect planes .......

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, that is correct. The Boe in Boeshield is from Boeing. I think I even have a really old can with an airplane on it, but that's for the "Rotting Stuff in the Garage" thread.

mark oliver · #19 03-22-2009, 07:31 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Whatever rust you find would never amount to anything in our liftimes...I'm sure you won't be exposing the car to salt..and you tell me, you gonna drive it in the rain? Didn't think so...

One thing I've used that works really well and is easy is rust-mort.. buy a bottle and put a generic spray hed on the bottle [like off a fantastic bottle]

turns the rust black...since the frame/chassis is supposed to be black..it blends in pretty well.

Do NOT undercoat the car...

2 cents worth..

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you , Jim and everyone. I am NOT going to undercoat the car but am going forward with the rust removal and subsequently, the boeshield!

Pics to follow.

Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars.