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#11
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I took an old parts distributor and removed all the guts so I had nothing but a housing and shaft. Take the gear off as well. Insert into the block and attach a 1/2" drill. You have to mill the top of the shaft but that was easy and it works great!
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#12
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If engine was mechanically sound when you shut it down -- remove PWR wire from distributor, crank engine for about 10 seconds, reconnect PWR to distributor ... should be all you need to do.
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
#13
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Yea, I buttoned everything up, charged the battery, made sure the radiator was full, put fresh 110 in it - and hit the key. It took a little bit to build oil pressure, but it fired right off! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
I have a pesky oil leak at the oil sending unit. The original one leaked, so I put an NOS one on - it leaks too. Are you guys teflon taping these things to death or what? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif[/img] Spent days cleaning, and a short jaunt around the block later - oil drips... frustrating. ![]() ![]()
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#14
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Marlin -- I've seen this before ... may not be leaking at the threads. Seeping may occur at the crimp toward the top of sending unit. This may be hard to see, but clean the sending unit, start engine, bring up to a high idle and observe the top of sending unit where wire is attached. Oil starts oozing out ... The TAZ
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
#15
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Ok, will check it out tonight. There is a little puddle on the rear flange of the block from this thing, [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif[/img] I should just put some Dixco gauges in it eh Jason? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#16
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Dixcos are pretty nice. The NOS 3 gauge set is sold to a member though. I may have a used set here for you :-).
Jason |
#17
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Oil pressure gauges have two different ends. One type is a wedge. One type is kind of round. I had an issue like you are describing and changed the block fitting.
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1967 Camaro conv (first car) 1969 Camaro street car 1967 Super Stock SS/JA Joe Scott car |
#18
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There is a long discussion on the oil pressure fittings on the CRG and the Team Camaro for 69 Z28's if this is similar you may want to check it out.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#19
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Thanks, I'm just hoping it's not the intake gasket.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/frown.gif[/img]
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
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