Construction Question???

[Zedder]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all of the suggestions! I know very little about this sort of stuff and don't want to leave it up to the builder alone to determine the best solution. Thanks again

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I've got dibbs that Zedd sells this house and buys another before this one is completed!

[SamLBInj]

Your in my area of expertise now and we build walls on slabs on an Island every day. I have done the same thing in my garage as you are doing. You dont need a curb. Here is what you do, Bottom plate is ACQ (You will need to use ACQ for anything that is below flood level). Then frame the wall with doug fir. Use termite sheild. On the Island here we use MR (Moisture resistent drywall) on anything that may get wet otherwise we use 5/8" Fire Code drywall. (if there is living space above garage you need two layers of fire code drywall). Did they put bolts in the floor before hand? If not, you also have to glue the wall down.
Insulate if you want, other than that your done, use a good anti-molding primer like Kilz. You can also use wood looking plastic base trim if your afraid of water damage.
We always install radiant floor heat in any garage slab we do and if you have ever experianced it you would want it. It can be a little pricey if your home isnt using a boiler but smaller garages can be run off a water heater type unit. Just make sure they size the piping right or it won't work right and take forever to circulate through. When done right you don't mind laying on the 80 degree cement If you have a question just ask and I'll help you out.
Sam
PS Steve, we are seeing many problems with tyvek on Ocean or near water front homes where it was installed behind cedar siding as the homes are rotting due to being "too tight" We only use it behind vinyl now. We are also finding many homes completely rotted from ground to ceiling that used EIFS siding. The studs are actually disintegrated and only the paint and drywall are holding everything together. We just rebuilt a 5 million dollar ocean front house that was completely gone that was only 6 years old.

[LVCamaro]

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PS Steve, we are seeing many problems with tyvek on Ocean or near water front homes where it was installed behind cedar siding as the homes are rotting due to being "too tight" We only use it behind vinyl now. We are also finding many homes completely rotted from ground to ceiling that used EIFS siding. The studs are actually disintegrated and only the paint and drywall are holding everything together. We just rebuilt a 5 million dollar ocean front house that was completely gone that was only 6 years old.

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Interesting...I've built a dozen homes on the Kenai Peninsula [along the shoreline of the Kenai River and Cook Inlet, AK] and we've NEVER had mold/rot issues behind the exterior siding. Average fare for the day up there is blowing rain or snow, and EVERY home is wrapped in Tyvek for the last 6-8 years that I'm aware of. Bluwood is probably the newest innovation in anti-mold wood treatment and we've had tremendous success with it in places like Hawaii and the Pacific Rim areas.

SS

[SamLBInj]

We have run into it alot, Only when cedar is over the tyvek and then over CDX ply and it dosent matter clap or T&G. Zero problems with good old tar paper. We didn't build them, only repairing so we are still trying to figure out why. Lots of moisture here as were on an Island 6 miles out into the north Atlantic.

[LVCamaro]

any experience with the Bluwood or Ark Oil wood preservative treatments back there? We've had very good luck with both out here on the left coast.

Ark Oil

Bluwood

if moisture gets past the exterior siding, either product will save the day from the standpoint of rot or mold issues on the plywood, sheetrock or framing lumber/trusses. Some of the local architects and construction permit regs specify one, or the other, on near coastal projects out here.

[71-LS6]

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Sam
PS Steve, we are seeing many problems with tyvek on Ocean or near water front homes where it was installed behind cedar siding as the homes are rotting due to being "too tight" We only use it behind vinyl now. We are also finding many homes completely rotted from ground to ceiling that used EIFS siding. The studs are actually disintegrated and only the paint and drywall are holding everything together. We just rebuilt a 5 million dollar ocean front house that was completely gone that was only 6 years old.

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Sam, I'm having a "discussion" about TYVEK right now with an inspector. The guy pulled my framer off the job, citing a local requirement for TYVEK installation on all framed walls. I'm concerned about moisture retention at this location due to extremely high humidity levels in the spring, summer, and fall. I think TYVEK works well in colder climates where the ambient air doesn't hold as much moisture. TYVEK, SILT FENCE... the same stuff? Don't get me worried about EIFS wall covering, my whole house is built with it, but then I'm not living on the coast either.

[Zedder]

Thanks Sam and Steve...I met with the builder tonight and they are going to get back with a plan later this week.

Marlin, That actually made me laugh out loud!!! Thanks for the chuckle Nope, we've been in our current house for 11 years and it was supposed to be a 3 - 5 year house. So we are doing this one just the way we want it and hope to stay there for a long time. I dread the thought of going through a building project and then a move, so I have no desire to sell it once it's done. Now, if it were a car, I'd be looking forward to finding another to replace it...but you already know that

[LVCamaro]

EIFS are among the most water resistant exterior surfaces you can put on a house. But as with all claddings, EIFS must be correctly installed and properly detailed if they are to perform properly. Otherwise, moisture can get behind the systems and cause damage, just as it can with wood siding, brick or any other exterior.

Water intrusion is seldom a problem on commercial structures with EIFS. Water intrusion damage to homes is uncommon, but when it does occur, the moisture typically affects only small areas which can be easily and inexpensively repaired.

In cases where homes have been damaged, the problems have been traced to the use of poor quality (even leaky and/or non code-compliant) windows and/or improper flashing and sealing. As a result, when building with EIFS, it is wise to use quality windows (such as those with AAMA certification) which are code-compliant, and to make sure there is proper flashing and sealing around windows, doors, roofs, deck-to-house attachments, and all other exterior wall penetrations.

Periodic maintenance should include thorough checking of the flashing and sealing to ensure that the building envelope remains watertight. Damaged or missing flashing should be repaired or replaced immediately; likewise, cracked or deteriorated sealants should immediately be repaired, or removed and replaced.

Good luck, Sam, Steve and Mark...my job here is done...lol

[Xplantdad]

Wow...this is like watching "Ask This Old House".

Steve, you sure know your vapor barriers!