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#1
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Well, it's time to stop for the night. Got everything installed. Still need to tighten the trans and converter bolts, install starter, radiator, fan, PS pump, etc. Got a lot done this afternoon.
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#2
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Looks like it belongs there -- good job ... TAZ
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
#3
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Nice work!! Looks great.
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#4
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Looks great.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#5
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I had to wait til the boy got home from school to start the engine. I spent the morning and afternoon tightening the underside bolts, filling the radiator, and installing the starter: always a pain since you have to lift it and hold it and then try to get a bolt started while holding it with one hand using only your forearm muscle.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img] You cant install it on the engine beforehand due to the fact that the starter harness is part of the engine compartment wiring and routes down from the top/front of the engine.
Anyway, once again, just like the 350 four years ago, I just clicked the key and she was running. No slow cranking, no backfires, no drama...I put the boy on guard duty to watch the underside for leaks, flames, gremlins, etc. I gave him a wet towel this time, instead of a fire extinguisher just so he wouldn't be tempted to start blasting away. I ran it for 15 minutes at 1500 rpm or so and then shut her down to change the oil and filter to get out all the moly stuff, additives, white lube, dog and cat hair, etc. Checked the magnetic drain plug and it was clean. Then refilled it with Rotella 15w40 and Lucas Engine Break-In Additive. I adjusted the timing and idle, and then took the car out for a test drive. Seems qute a bit peppier. It was getting dark by then, so me and the wife installed the hood and then I closed up the garage for the night. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#6
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I really need to put a real exhaust on this car. You can hear it straining to breath. Time to start shopping for some RamAir manifolds and a real system to replace the factory log manifolds and the 30 year-old Walker 2" crimped pipes and transverse muffler.
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#7
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Not to steer you one way or another but I ordered a Jones x-pipe, Pypes Race Pro Crossflow muffler then went to my local exhaust shop and had the guy fab up the pipes and made it look and work with stock brackets and clamp locations. Ran headers with 3.5" collectors that reduced down to 2.5" all the way out. Total I have less than $400 in the exhaust. Of course I already had the headers, reducers & hangers.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-mvr100 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-xp4/overview/ ![]() ![]() <object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/NJTTZjai8DA"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="https://www.youtube.com/v/NJTTZjai8DA" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object> |
#8
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Congrats! Your project is going considerably better than my '67 GTO rejuvenation. I got mine running last weekend and it overheated after a 5 minute drive around the neighborhood (I think the water pump impeller is cooked - no apparent coolant flow across the radiator when the T-stat opens).
Anyway, looks great. I'm sure it has a 'little' more power than the stock motor. |
#9
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Did you replace the two rubber o-rings that go inside the timing cover on the transfer tubes? If you leave those out you get zero water flow.
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#10
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I haven't touched the pump yet...that was just a guess. I did replace the T-stat already and I still get no obvious water flowing from the engine into the radiator. I'll definitely replace the seals, backing plate, etc once I have it out.
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