Trim resto..input wanted

[SuperNovaSS]

Just to be clear, you are referring to the EBay seller not the poster of this thread. Correct?


Jason

[The Dude]

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Just to be clear, you are referring to the EBay seller not the poster of this thread. Correct?


Jason

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Correct, Bob Runte is the ebay guy.

[CamarosRus]

Are the above Mopar Caps Anodized Aluminum (as are 69 Chev Dog Dish, OR are they Stainless Steel (as are 70' Camaro,Nova,Chevelle Bow Tie BAby Moons).

My polisher tried "buffing" up the anodized dog dish a little, but too much aggression burns through the Brite Dip (anodizing)

Could CMF please give us a little more education ????????

[CMF]

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What's the secret to getting the dings and blems out of the trim. i have several pieces for my 67 Chevelle that I could salvage with some paint and polish, but others with dings. Suggestions??? (besides alot of patience).

Blair

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Blair, there really isn't any secret to it, just lots of practice and patience. Knowing how hard to tap on the back side of a part to remove a dent/ding comes with practice.
It is not unlike body work but on a much smaller scale, but the use of filler isn't allowed. Practice on some pieces that have little or no value.

[CMF]

[ QUOTE ]
Are the above Mopar Caps Anodized Aluminum (as are 69 Chev Dog Dish, OR are they Stainless Steel (as are 70' Camaro,Nova,Chevelle Bow Tie BAby Moons).

My polisher tried "buffing" up the anodized dog dish a little, but too much aggression burns through the Brite Dip (anodizing)

Could CMF please give us a little more education ????????

[/ QUOTE ]
Well, I'll give it my best shot-
99% of the time trying to 'buff up' an anodized surface is futile. The reason it doesn't work is that the anodic coating is very thin and hard, almost as hard as diamond. By the time the blemish begins to disappear, we are through the anodic coating and now cutting on bare aluminum (much softer than diamond.)Now we are creating bright spots in the part that do not match the original finish appearance(anodizing) and, depending on how aggressive the person doing the buffing is, making the surface uneven. The rate of cut is much faster on the bare aluminum (where the anodizing was buffed through) than that the surrounding areas that still have some degree of anodizing on them.
This is why the anodizing has to come off in order to properly restore a part, even NOS parts that have shelf wear/scratches/dings (unless you can live with them)
-anodizing removal.
This step is more important than most realize. Any and all paint MUST be removed along with any and all paint stripper residue for an even strip and to insure there are no contaminates on the part when it goes in to brite dip (I will explain this more in a bit). Any steel bracket/rivets must also be removed.
Have the anodizing stripped by an anodizing shop. Do not be tempted to strip the anodizing with oven cleaner, lye or a chrome plate stripper. These methods/products will cause surface defects that may not be apparent but will cause problems/more work in the surface finishing steps.
After anodize stripping the part is ready for repairs, sanding and buffing. After the part is finished to the satisfaction of the person buffing, its off to the anodize shop.
-brite dip/anodizing basic overview-
At the beginning of the line, the part is attached to a rack that will take the part through all the chemical processes in the anodizing proceedure. The first several steps include cleaning/desmutting. I am not real familliar with all the step as the local anodize shop doesnt want to give away any proprietary info. After the rack has been through all the nesessary tanks for prep, it goes into the brite dip tank.
Brite dip is a propietary mixture of acids and other chemicals used to remove aluminum from the surface of the part. This removal helps smooth the microscopic peaks and valleys (but does not eliminate them) making the part appear brighter. (hence the term 'brite dip')
Aluminum brite dip is not compatible with paint or ferrous materials. Paint will 'burn' and leave pits and pock marks on your part or any others racked in close proximity. (this is why all paint has to be removed)
anodizing-after all the previous steps, including brite dip, the part is placed in a tank of acid (sulfuric for our application) and an electrical current is passed through the rack/part. Similar to electroplating, but instead of depositing a metal (copper,nickel,chrome) the aluminum grows a porous oxide on the surface. the part then can be dyed a color, or in our case, the part then gets dipped into a sealer tank to seal off the pores in the oxide.
Part is unracked and ready for detail painting or installation. Hope this helped!

The mopar caps are stainless steel.

[Donnie]

Mark,
where in Indiana are you?

[Charley Lillard]

Damn.....First we have a smart carb guy, now we have you...Welcome to the site. Don't go away.

[rubbinisracing]

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Damn.....First we have a smart carb guy, now we have you...Welcome to the site. Don't go away.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ditto!

[CMF]

Thanks everyone for the welcome here and the PM inquiries about having some work done. I would like to add that I will be going through a (hopefully short) transitional period if all goes as planned in the next 3-4 weeks. (real estate closing, some backlogged trim to take care of, misc. shop prep) Just a heads up that I may not be as available as I would like for a short time.
Thanks again,
Mark

[CMF]

Update- Real estate closing is a done deal. Still have some backlogged trim to restore, BUT I turned in a two week notice at work. Only a few days left and I will be self-employed. Feeling anxious, relieved and nervous all at the same time....
Thanks again!