Updated pics of my project

[Lynn]

Upper control arms are going back on for hopefully the last time.

There was zero wear in my upper ball joints, so I just cleaned them up and replaced the boots. Went a little nuts detailing the rivets and ball joint, but at least they shouldn't rust! I actually did the control arms about 14 years ago. Shot some synthetic grease in them (that's why it is red).

Installed NOS snubbers. I believe they are maybe 1/8 too long, but that is OK with me. Using some springs that are stiffer than stock and bring the front down about 3/4 of an inch overall, so distance from snubber to frame should be just about right. My old snubbers were hard as rocks.

As I said, I am using quite a few aftermarket bolt ons. Went with the graphite impregnated poly bushings up front. These and the springs (and the Koni adjustables) would be very easy to change out if I decide I need it 100% stock. Still have some original Z springs.

If all goes well, I will drive it to the shop this weekend to install the rest of the exhaust. I need a lift man; tired of crawling around on the floor.

[Lynn]

Brakes are working. Sheet metal is all fitted. Not perfect, but I am certain my gaps etc. are better than when it left the factory.

Put the front wire harness in tonight. Hmmm... getting to be a recurring theme, but I can't find the capacitor that goes on the Voltage Reg.

Anyone have one of these laying around?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-C...#ht_1003wt_1043

[Lynn]

Now have 50 miles on the car!!!!

Guess I should put headlight in it. All the rest of the lights are in. Tail lights are old and crappy, but I will have to pull them out to paint the trunk anyway.

Other than a few glitches like stuck posi clutches(see here: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/ubbt...hes#Post525372) and a stuck horn relay (runs the batt down pretty fast), I am very pleased overall.

Took my camera to the shop yesterday in anticipation of taking some good detail shots, but ended up sidetracked (buddy brought his just finished 68 Z by and we went for a ride, etc.) and spent all the rest of the day getting the exhaust on. Had to hurry home before dark (see above).

Will get some shots this week. Sits great. Stock rear springs, with a about a 3/4 inch drop in the front. Maybe a little less. Have the adjustable Koni's set about 80 to 90% firm so it is nice and stiff.

I had also planned on tuning it yesterday, but ran out of time. I had just eyeballed the points, set the timing by ear, and haven't even set float leves yet!!!! I don't even have a dwell meter or timing light at the house. Still it runs very well. Punched it while rolling in 2nd gear and the rear tires went up in smoke. Will get things dialed in this week.

Then all I need is stripes, a day or two wet sanding and a good buffer. Oh, and playing with wheel combinations, restoring the YH ralleys, ..... on and on and on I guess.

[Lynn]

Think I have the mechanicals all worked out, other than the posi clutches still being stuck. But, waiting on some big tires to put on the rear and will go do some figure 8's. Not sure if these E70 15 bias ply tires can overcome the stuck clutches.

Set it up to sit 5/8 inch lower in the front. I used 1970 big block Chevelle springs with one or two coils (can't remember which) cut off and a 3/8 hard rubber spacer under each spring. I still have my original Z springs in very good condition. They haven't been in the car since 1977. The extra firm springs along with the Koni's adjusted 80% firm make for pretty stiff, but still tolerable ride.

I have the ability to lower the rear by 1 inch in about 15 minutes without lowering blocks. I may have to when I put the 275 60 15 tires on the rear just to keep the stance the same.

Gonna start prepping for stripes today. Ordered a quart of trunk paint Fri. and am hoping for next weekend.

Then, I still need to paint the front bumper. After that, it is just cut and buff and final assy of the grill, emblems etc.

These wheels are FW's, but I have a set of YH wheels for it that still need blasted and painted. Also have a set of old school staggered Centerline auto drags to put the big tires on.

Any recs on wheel paint? I have a couple of OLD cans from Eastwood, but generally have found their products pretty much dime store quality. I know the wheels were enamal fromt the factory. Just don't know who makes the best match.

[Xplantdad]

Looking good Lynn!

[x Baldwin Motion]

very cool [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img]

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I'll take the 6 series, [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[Lynn]

Marlin. That is actually a 7. It is a Euro version, so it doesn't look as stodgy as the ones sold here with the giant bumpers.

I lowered it an inch with M tech springs, cutting off one coil. Also installed Bilstein HD struts, so it is nice and stiff for a big car. Converted it from an auto to a 5 speed, and used an M5 clutch.

It is a factory turbo car. I modified it to run 15 psi (factory is a whopping 6 psi).

I have over 306,000 miles on that car now. Cheap fun (but only if you can work on it yourself).

BTW, got stripes painted on the Z. I mean really, it isn't a Z without stripes (yes, I know you could buy them stripe delete).

[69VN]

Lynn, I pulled up a few threads on the correct wheel paint on different forums and found that Argent Silver by Ditzler PPG DQE 8568 or DuPont 9296L. If I read it right, some people said that the lacquer paint used way back then didn't hold up properly on their wheels. Maybe with todays waterborne paints might be a better choice but don't forget to properly prime your wheels and take care of any rust issues first if you have them.

SAL

[Lynn]

Sal. I think the wheels were the same color as the grill, except the grill was painted with lacquer and the wheels with enamel.

I have some of the PPG DQE 8568 which I used on the grill. Probably just need to go by the paint store and see what they have in an enamel equivilant.