![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#31
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Can I dip upper and lower control arms into evaporust even though the new bushings and ball joints have been installed?
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yes. It doesn't hurt rubber. Make sure there is no grease or oil residue on them, otherwise it contaminates the liquid and also acts as a barrier preventing the liquid from doing its job on the metal.
|
#33
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Ok, thanks. So, I assume it's best to clean the control arms with some lacquer thinner first to remove oil and dirt before submerging them into the evaporust - sounds like a nice project that can be done at home during the cold winter months...
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yup. Clean them nicely to get rid of all the grease. And heat the liquid. The warmer it is, the faster it works.
|
#35
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Be careful of the hardened steel components such as the ball joint studs. I've had the Evaporust type products eat into the high carbon steel hardened shaft end of a pitman arm. It may have been in too long, I didn't expect the steel to erode away like it did.
|
#36
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I dug out the rust remover product I bought about 10 years ago but never opened; Safest Rust Remover?? I poured it into a tin pan and laid the end of a sway bar into it, let it sit over night - no change. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/mad.gif[/img]
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The stuff does degrade with time. If you used a metal pan it could have used itself up attacking the metal in the pan. I always used a plastic container. For really large or irregular shaped objects I would use plastic sheeting inside a kiddie pool so the object makes its own snug-fit recepticle from weighing down the sheeting.
|
#38
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I let it sit for a few days, it works - just VERY slowly! It turns the metal black, almost like a film, that comes off on your hands. I need to get Benjamin's Nova running by June, so I'm putting a blast cabinet together - I don't have time for this.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/eek.gif[/img]
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Marlin, hit Carlisle and get a Skat blasting cabinet, they go cheap there
__________________
70 L78 Nova Fathom Blue,Bench, 4spd, F41, 3:55 71 Porsche 911 Targa |
#40
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
That black film is a carbon layer formed from sitting in the fluid. Wash it off and start again. FYI: You really need to filter the fluid through some clean rags before storing it. Any iron residue left in the fluid will cause it to keep working on that residue forever and will eventually reduce the effectiveness of the fluid to zero.
|
![]() |
|
|