Brakes on my 87 El Camino

[enio45]

I have an original low mileage 87 el camino - 20K miles.

pads, rotors, and all the brake system is orig to the car. I feel like the brakes are spongey - like if i wanted to, I cannot LOCK them up if needed. It will stop, but to a slow roll, not lock up.

I bled the system and flushed out the fluid and installed new fluid. No real change - so im trying to figure out where the issue may be - booster, master, calipers and rear wheel cylinders need cleaned out and redone. Not sure best way to separate the diagnostics to pin point he issue, or am I at a trail and error?

Any advise? I have no leaks in the system, just a soft feel to the brake pressure.

thanks in advance.

[RPOLS3]

When you bled the system did you get a good stream of fluid? If the proportioning valve has failed or is not working properly you may not be getting enough fluid to the front or rear.

[enio45]

yep we had an issue with the rear - had to force some fluid thru when we opened the bleeder - i was using a suction tool to bleed the brakers thru the calipers. at first nothing then applied some brake pressure and a big stream came out........i can't say it was nice solid stream.......maybe look into the prop valve? R&R clean, rebuild - they rebuildable?

[RPOLS3]

Originally Posted by enio45

yep we had an issue with the rear - had to force some fluid thru when we opened the bleeder - i was using a suction tool to bleed the brakers thru the calipers. at first nothing then applied some brake pressure and a big stream came out........i can't say it was nice solid stream.......maybe look into the prop valve? R&R clean, rebuild - they rebuildable?

I think the 1987's were similar/same to the earlier 1970's GM cast iron units and yes they are rebuildable by any of the typical places for calipers/wheel cylinders. The valve may be stuck due to rusty fluid/varnishing and not allowing enough fluid through.

[enio45]

ok will look into this today! appreciate the thoughts and guidance.

[olredalert]

----Along with what Jake said, I would replace the pads. They may be glazed and certainly are old. Possibly have the rotors fly cut to give the new pads a good brake in surface.....Bill S

[PeteLeathersac]

‘

All above plus pull frt. calipers and service slide systems also remove drums and confirm rear wheel cylinders Ok both directions + adjusters free and wound out as far as possible but you can still get drums on/off.
Next, elevate rear and bleed system, RR first on to LR and RF w/ LF last also if weak pressure bleeding, consider flex lines may be internally collapsed whether they look good externally including rear flex if low/no pressure @ wh. cyls.
Best of luck!

~ Pete

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[67since67]

Originally Posted by PeteLeathersac

‘

All above plus pull frt. calipers and service slide systems also remove drums and confirm rear wheel cylinders Ok both directions + adjusters free and wound out as far as possible but you can still get drums on/off.
Next, elevate rear and bleed system, RR first on to LR and RF w/ LF last also if weak pressure bleeding, consider flex lines may be internally collapsed whether they look good externally including rear flex if low/no pressure @ wh. cyls.
Best of luck!

~ Pete

.

This is great advise!! - Bill W

[John Brown]

Originally Posted by enio45

yep we had an issue with the rear - had to force some fluid thru when we opened the bleeder - i was using a suction tool to bleed the brakers thru the calipers. at first nothing then applied some brake pressure and a big stream came out........i can't say it was nice solid stream.......maybe look into the prop valve? R&R clean, rebuild - they rebuildable?

Rebuild kits. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/

[enio45]

Sounds like a good brake overhaul would be best approach......one can spend alot of time on one item or another, hoping to identify the issue etc.

Comprehensive brake overall might be in order - new rubber lines all the way around - new proportioning valve, pull and rebuild all brake calipers - fit and rears......

flush and clean system - see what we have.

i was trying to avail this level of effort, but all the points / suggestions above drive me to think this is the best approach. related to the booster and master cylinder - maybe a rebuild of the master is in order - i have good boost from the booster - so that will be the only think i dont touch.

sounds??????????