Safest Rust Remover or Evapo-rust or ??

[Kurt S]

I got some at Harbor Freight.
I did some tools/wood planes with it. I liked the results. Did it in the kitchen to keep the temp up. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img]

How do you know when the solution is done? By color?

Thanks!

[70 copo]

Kurt

The key is not to raise the ph.

Here is everything you want to know: www.evaporust.com/Evapo-Rustppt_files/Evapo-Rustppt.ppt

[Kurt S]

The ppt didn't actually mention it. But I found it on their homepage:
One gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of steel, so a little bit goes a long way. Evapo-Rust® will turn black once it is spent.

[70 copo]

That's right. In my experience it is way easier to screw up the PH first without a color change. Either way it will quit working.

[Kurt S]

How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it.

[Verne_Frantz]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>

I'd be interested in knowing that too because I've used it a lot and it turns brown, then black in no time for me. My parts are all degreased when I dunk them. It gets expensive! I've also noticed that if you leave a part in it too long, it will re-deposit a dark gary oxide back ONTO the part. IT washes right off with something like Spray-9 though.

Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif[/img]

[68camaroz28]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Verne_Frantz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>

I'd be interested in knowing that too because I've used it a lot and it turns brown, then black in no time for me. My parts are all degreased when I dunk them. It gets expensive! I've also noticed that if you leave a part in it too long, it will re-deposit a dark gary oxide back ONTO the part. IT washes right off with something like Spray-9 though.

Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/flag.gif[/img] </div></div>
I've been using evapo-rust for several years and agree the solution after several uses eventually turns black. When new or lightly used it seems to leave no film (darkening) but once it starts to turn a darker color if parts are left in too long especially castings it has a tendency to darken the material. Cannot beat it for ease of working. Back several years ago I placed my driveshaft in a capped 5' length of 4&quot; PVC plastic pipe and added 2 gallons which completed engulfed the driveshaft. After a day I could clearly see paint stripes and painted yokes not noticed prior.

[70 copo]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kurt S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How can you mess up the pH? Had some chemical/coating on a part?

I have a small container with the solution that I keep using. It's just getting browner. I'll have to look for the pH test kit and check it. </div></div>


If you are doing a big job you will need to add water due to evaporation of the material. Big jobs require a shower bath with constant flow. For small jobs (up to drive shaft dipping) straight product is usually fine (if you cover it) since you can usually control the evaporation rate that way.

Now here is the difference between Evapo rust and Safest rust remover:

The evaporation rate on Evapo-rust is chemically unacceptable with a shower bath that is why they recommend not to use it in a shower. look at the FAQ's for Evapo rust Here: http://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/

The evaporation rate with Safest rust remover is more controllable and is acceptable with a shower bath.

http://safestrustremover.com/howto.asp

In my experience with both products a shower bath always beats immersion in time of use and effectiveness especially on pitted surfaces.

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Now that we are on the same page with the differences with both products on to the question:

Why will PH screw up the product? <span style="font-weight: bold"> Never add tap water until you have verified the PH -- WHY?</span>

http://www.atsenvironmental.com/resi...list/ph-levels

Neither company will not tell you not to use tap water because they want you to buy more product. <span style="text-decoration: underline">Always maintain a PH neutral chemical for Maximum product life.</span>

I always use distilled water for any addition as make up for evaporation. http://www.okpure.com/article_005en.html

[70 copo]

Here is the result of the dip method on a 1993 Camaro Drive Shaft using safest rust remover.

[70 copo]

Sainte-Thérèse Assembly had a QA area called the &quot;Knot hole&quot; where the entire car went through a series of QA/QC checks at the factory. One of these checks was a hi pressure water bath conducted after the drive train was installed. This test checked for water in any places where it would have been a contaminant in normal operation. The down side is the resultant flash rust on every bare metal part.

I wanted to return the chassis to a point prior to the water bath in appearance.

I carefully removed the brake line tag first and draped the rest.

Using safest rust remover as a shower bath: