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  #231  
Old 01-13-2020, 11:49 PM
R68GTO R68GTO is offline
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Tough to draw the line in the sand isn't it? Clean it up, evaporust the rust off and flat clear the bare spots, it will look much better.
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  #232  
Old 01-14-2020, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCam View Post
All 6 bushings have Chevrolet on one side with the part numbers on the reverse side 180 degrees opposite.
The bushing thing got me curious so I went out and checked mine. Here's the pics of mine. Interesting that the part number is on the bushing twice, one large font, one small font. That ones a head scratcher
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  #233  
Old 01-14-2020, 02:11 AM
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Never noticed that? I haven't looked too closely at them yet, nor have I looked at both sides but I am sure I will now. It's freezing a$$ cold up here this week and I have some business matters that are also calling for my attention. Never enough time in a day. lol
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  #234  
Old 01-14-2020, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by R68GTO View Post
Tough to draw the line in the sand isn't it? Clean it up, evaporust the rust off and flat clear the bare spots, it will look much better.

*Personal preference and opinion*


No to flat clear!!! RPM or Rust Veto by Cosmoline on bare parts.
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  #235  
Old 01-14-2020, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cook_dw View Post
*Personal preference and opinion*

No to flat clear!!! RPM or Rust Veto by Cosmoline on bare parts.
I like the idea of those suggestions Darrell. Was also looking at Boeshield T9

Quote:
Developed this formula for long term protection of aircraft components. Penetrates to fasteners and fixtures, where it displaces moisture, and will even loosen rusted parts. Boeing recommends it for fuselage, wing, and tail structures, engines and cowlings, landing gear and gear wells, control linkages, and avionics. Dries to a clean waxy film. Lubricates and protects all metals for months. Safe on most paints, plastics & vinyls.
I will need to compare the choices and take the less is more approach to whatever leaves the cleanest finish. I don't mind the bare metal parts having wax-like protection on them, but don't want it too thick. Planning to coat the rear springs, front steering components, and the calipers once cleaned up.
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  #236  
Old 01-24-2020, 05:56 PM
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Withdrawal has set in. 10 days and no updates! Weather and business are not suitable excuses! In the hospital? Too much Crown royal?

What up GW?

Need my fix!
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  #237  
Old 01-24-2020, 10:28 PM
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bahaha

Seriously...it was freakin cold (-38) here last week until the arctic deep freeze finally moved out. I was also busy doing year end books for the business and was building a new customer service counter in the front of our shop.

Sunday Jan 26 Update:

OK Tim,

Caught up with some business matters so I'm back onto the car. Well...for the 12 hours anyway. Next week is another matter as I still have a lot of business matters to deal with.
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Last edited by NorCam; 01-26-2020 at 04:18 PM.
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  #238  
Old 01-26-2020, 11:00 PM
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Made it into plus temps here today so I got the doors opened to air out the shop while cleaning the bottom. The floors have really cleaned up nicely on the back half of the car. I removed most of the black spray paint along the frame rails and under the rear valance which was heavily fogged in when they sprayed the fuel tank black. In some places, a simple spray and wipe down with the graffiti remover revealed the original gray primer that was under the spray paint. This was quite evident under the tank, around the rear valance and along the backs and fronts edges of the rear frame rails where they must not have gotten much paint from the factory. I can see drip marks in a lot of the original primer and some blue overspray in other places.

I'm not going to take the cleaning any further than this on the back and I am quite happy that it's eliminated most if not all of the spray paint they hit the floors with. I'm now suspecting that this car had a lot of exposed grey primer up around the rear inner frame rails and the previous owners hit most of it with black spray paint to cover any bare spots and eliminate the grey. I say this because the stuff literally wiped right off any spots that were tough to originally coat at the factory. I still have some work to do on the outer rails and in the wheelhouses to knock back the gloss on the rust proofing they sprayed into the wheel wells. Once that's done I can coat some bare parts with rust shield, get the fuel line back onto the car and get the diff back under it. From there I will work forward and detail everything under the rockers while working up to the front of the car.

Lots of work still ahead, but definitely like where this is going. It's revealed its character so it has!


Up in the air so I can clean the rear floors and frame rails.


Still has the part numbers visible where they are stamped into the lower drops.


Got most of the back spray paint off the rear rails. Lot's of grey primer exposed here.


Now showing the original black paint on the rear floors ahead of the tank. I took this shot before I cleaned the pass side frame rail.


How it's looking before the tank goes in. Straps are now soaking in stripper.


Nice and clean up in the rear tunnel area. Leaving it just like this.


Upside down to take this shot but you get the idea. Clean!


The bare spots tell me the exhaust hangers were in place before the factory sprayed the underside?


Thinking the inner rails were mostly grey when the fuel line went in since all of the straps are grey underneath?


Notice how this black spray paint wiped off to reveal all the grey? See those factory drip lines? It tells me these bodies were hung high on the front when they primed the body?

More when I get the diff back under the car later in the week. Then I'll double back towards the front of the car and detail anything missed on the first pass. Really having fun with this project, and love how things are revealing themselves. Big thanks to Mark Bulaw for the inspiration and tips on some of this.
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Last edited by NorCam; 01-26-2020 at 11:29 PM.
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  #239  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:03 PM
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Good read for those that haven't seen it before. Nice work on the rear tub. What did you use to remove the black spray paint? I might suggest adding a heavy coat of Meguiar's #7 to hydrate the old painted surfaces.


CRG Paint Process Article by John Hinckley

"Fisher Body - Paint Shop Operations
The Paint Shop is broken down into phosphate, prime, sealing, and color departments; the body was suspended from an overhead conveyor with hooks at the firewall and at the ends of the rear frame rails through the phosphate system, and was transferred to a steel carrying truck before the prime system that carried it through the rest of the Paint Shop and through the Trim Shop.
Phosphate System: The raw body shell passed through a seven-stage phosphate system, where it went through a series of enclosed high-pressure hot spray stages where it was washed to remove all the oils and debris from stamping, welding, brazing, soldering, and grinding operations, then the body was coated with a hot iron phosphate solution which "etched" the metal and provided "teeth" for paint adhesion. The final stage was a de-ionized hot water rinse and blow-off, followed by a drying oven on the way to the prime booth.

Prime System: In the first prime booth, the entire body, inside and out, was manually sprayed with primer, and confined areas subject to corrosion were given a second coat of heavier primer material; this prime coat was then baked at 390F for 30 minutes. In the second prime booth, the instrument panel and rear of the shelf area (and the upper door and quarter areas of 1967-68 models) were painted interior color, and another coat of air-dry flash primer was sprayed from the belt line down. The interior color areas were masked, and the entire outer body was sprayed with gray primer-surfacer and the body was baked again at 285F for 45 minutes. The cowl vent panel was hung in the side window opening on wire hooks all the way through the paint process.

After baking, the entire outer surface was wet-sanded, wiped down, and the body went through a short infra-red dry-off oven on its way to the sealer deck.

Sealing: The primed and baked body passed through a long series of platforms where vinyl plastisol sealer was applied to all joints; floor pan drain hole plugs were installed and sealed, and the sealers were manually dressed in exposed areas. Floor pan deadener pads were then installed, which "melted" into place later in the color reflow oven. The body then went through a sealer oven to "set" the sealers on its way to the color booth.

Color System: The bodies were sequenced to "batch-paint" by color as much as the build schedule allowed, to minimize the waste of thinner required to clear paint guns between colors. The interior was masked off, the body exterior was tacked-off, and it then entered the main color booth, where it got three coats of acrylic lacquer, sprayed automatically with vertical and horizontal reciprocating spray guns, with a 3-minute "flash" between coats, followed by a 10-minute bake at 200F to "skin" the surface prior to sanding. In the next stage, any surface defects were power- and hand-wet-sanded with mineral spirits, then wiped off prior to entering the final "reflow" oven. This bake lasted 30 minutes at 275F, where the lacquer surface softened and "re-flowed" to a uniform gloss.

The last process for a non-stripe car was the blackout booth, where the firewall was blacked-out, the trunk was sprayed with spatter paint, and sound-deadening undercoat material was sprayed in the rear wheelhouses. The rear "cocktail shakers" on convertibles were suspended in the trunk for spatter painting, but weren't bolted in place until later in the Trim Shop, after the taillights and marker lights were installed.

If the car required Z28, Z10, or Z11 stripes or a black rear end panel or rockers, they were masked and manually sprayed in the in-line repair booth/oven system after the reflow oven, including the cowl vent panel; spoilers were painted body color separate from the body, and were final-installed to the deck lid just prior to the repair booth. The rear window filler panel, deck lid and spoiler were masked and sprayed stripe color in the repair booth, and baked in the repair oven before the body went back downstairs to the Trim Shop. The paint guns in the repair booth were fed from manifolds that were part of the main color circulating system so that the repair booth used exactly the same paint the main color booths were using.

If a unit required a major paint repair that couldn't be accommodated in the normal in-line cycle time, it could be diverted off the main line at the end of the repair booth into a parallel loop that ran in the opposite direction and fed the unit back into the main line ahead of the main repair booth; the re-run loop could accommodate about 20 units.

Paint System Information
The Fisher paint booth had pneumatically-driven overhead and side guns that reciprocated cross-car and up-down on trolleys, and were fed from manifolds on one side of the booth. Each booth had about 20 paint circulating systems fed from the main Paint Mix Room - usually 14-16 for standard colors and several others for thinner and one spare, and there were separate manifolds for hand-held manual spray guns used for interior and cut-ins. Every time that consecutive cars had different colors, all of those guns had to shoot thinner from the manifolds to the guns (through the floor grates) to clean out the previous color, then charge the line with the new color before they could spray again, and that had to take place in about four seconds.
Paint came from DuPont in 500-gallon tote tanks, with paint mixed from the same lot distributed to both the Fisher and Chevrolet paint shops to minimize color match and gloss issues between the body and the front sheet metal.

Special order paint colors were done by dragging 5-gallon pressurized paint pots through the booths and manually spraying everything; if there was a fleet or special order large enough, they charged one of the spare circulating systems, but that didn't happen very often - it didn't pay to charge a spare system for less than 100 cars."
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  #240  
Old 01-27-2020, 03:51 PM
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Read that once or twice before. It would be cool to see some pictures of them hooked from the priming process. The drips on the rear frame rail as well and from the tow boards back down under the floors tell me it must have been fairly high on the front hooks when it was sprayed.

All a very cool read on the subject. Thanks for posting that.

Does anyone know if the tubs went down the line on a 45-degree angle while hung for priming? The drip lines would suggest it was sprayed while hung near to that angle.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cook_dw View Post
What did you use to remove the black spray paint?
Here is my product of choice for removing spray paint from the underside. The stuff works great but you have to respect it and use it in small areas to work it and keep it wet. It sprays on as a stream so you really have to control light bursts onto the subject area and watch where the spatter lands in case you need to neutralize any overspray or spatter. Once complete you can wipe it down with a rag before neutralizing it. It calls for a water rinse to neutralize it, but I opted to rinse it with brake clean after it was wiped down and then wiped it clean a second time after the brake clean was applied. Also, you'll need to be wearing gloves, good eye protection, and a proper mask while spraying in a confined area. Both chemicals are flammable and/or explosive if not controlled so you need clean air and no sparks while working with these products.

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Last edited by NorCam; 01-27-2020 at 04:07 PM.
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