Trucks, Trailers, Towing and Misc Accessories

[CamarosRus]

would like to see more GOOD pics of how and where "YOU" strap down your car, hang your spare tire, secure floor jack, etc etc.........

[Canuck]

Went to my favourite hitch shop today to have the hitch inspected. When I was towing last week I felt there was too much movement on acceleration from a stop and a clunk on brakeing. Turns out the hitch pin hole has started to elongate. This is the factory GM hitch and although I have heard negative things about them such as cracking and broken welds, i did not have any problems up until now. In essence the hitch is toast so I ordered u a Putnam 15,000 lb unit.
The rep I spoke with at Hensley Arrow says GM factory hitches up until the 08 models are garbage.
Paul

[CamarosRus]

Canuck and others,

1)May we assume that ALL(GM, Dodge, Ford)the misc factory hitches are bolted to frame, and can be replaced with ????

2) How many million people (including members here) are towing with factory "garbage" hitches ???????

3) What of DODGE 2500 factory hitches ?? Anybody ?????

Thanks to ALL for the ongoing education!!!!!

[Chevy454]

The GM hitch pin hole will definitely egg shape over time, but it's gonna take quite a bit of miles/time...a logger buddy of mine has an '04 and the factory pin hole is hogged out pretty good, but that truck lives with a trailer behind it...our '02 dually pulled our little trailer probably a dozen times per year or more, and our hitch is ok...weld a piece of heavy C channel on it and roll on...!

[Canuck]

All the GM hitches are bolt on and can be replaced with equivelent products from Putnam, Hidden, reese or Curt.
The replacements sit snuggly to the bumper on Suburbans and Yukons and as such the equalizer will need adjustment or if you are using a fixt drop stinger,you will need to change that as well. I had a 2" drop for my Hensley with the factory hitch and am switching to a 4" drop for the new Putnam.

Paul

[CamarosRus]

THIS IS REPRINT FROM A TIRE CORP EXECUTIVE


Subject: RMA Aged Tire Position



I want everyone to be aware that there was a program segment on ABC’s 20/20 (5/09/2008) dealing with tire aging. I am attaching some RMA (Rubber Manufactures Association) information on this subject for your review and so you will have information if the program creates questions in our customers mind and they come to you for answers.



As you will see below RMA takes the position that there is no proven age at which a tire must be removed from a vehicle. The information that RMA wants to get out is that the tire care is the most important element in the life and safety of a tire not the age of the tire...



Our organization is not experts in tire design or development of tires we depend on the manufacture to determine the safety of the product they manufacture. We are governed by the position of the Rubber Manufacture Association.



Below is an article stating RMA’s position on tire aging; you will also find information on how to read the sidewall of a tire so you will be sure as how to read the DOT serial date to determine the age of a tire.



Background:
Some people promote the idea of a tire age limit – that tires should be removed from service once they reach a certain age - either number of years from date of manufacture or number of years in service.

The Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) represents the position that there is not one specific chronological age at which tires should be removed from service because there is no data that supports a specific age. For both the April 30 segment on “Today,” and the upcoming “20/20” segment, an RMA official was interviewed on tape, and parts of these interviews are being used in the news programs’ stories.

During the interviews, the RMA official stated the organization’s position on the issue, which is consistent with Goodyear’s position.
1. There is no data to support a particular year after which tires should be removed from service.
2. The reason the industry takes the position it does, is twofold:
A. Tire care is a greater factor in their safe operation than age alone; and
B. as a result of that, any suggestion that would encourage the public to believe that tires less than X years old are completely reliable regardless of tire care (or anything that would take the emphasis off tire care) would be a huge disservice.

What you need to know:
This information is for your own awareness, and for that of your store personnel. It is possible that after the segment airs on TV, some consumers may ask about the tire age issue when they visit your store. Again, the main points are these:

Age is not the key.
Consistent maintenance, proper inflation and regular inspection for tread wear patterns and damage are the keys to good tire performance
There is no data that demonstrates a tire is less safe when it reaches a certain age.
For consumers who are concerned about the age or condition of their tires, it is recommended they let a tire professional inspect the tires.



The above information is pretty much self explanatory however I would like to make sure that we all read the DOT serial “Date of Manufacture” correctly.

All highway tires produced in the year of 2000 or later will have the four numeric character DOT serial date.

[CamarosRus]

I would like to read postings as to what changes, updates, modifications you're making on your truck/trailer/towing equipment............

1) Does anybody use a metal "hook" to catch the factory oblong hole on front subframe.........or do most use a axle strap around lower control arms ????????

2) There is no real evidence that AGE alone, is a reason to replace tires !!!!!


Thanks for your additional comments.........

[SmallHurst]

Chuck,
I use the oblong holes, but I use the t-hook that you can get from Northern Hydraulic. It has all rounded edges so it will not cut the frame. Those holes were used by the factory for transprot, so they are designed to hold up. It also loads the suspension so that the car is not bouncing around when the trailer goes over bumps. You can dip those t-hooks in plasit-dip to keep them from marring up your frame.

As for trailer tires, last season I had 2 go on me. One was a true blow out and another was the tread seaperating on me and growing a large bubble on the tread. My trailer was 3 years old last summer. I would strongly suggest that if you are going anywhere, have a spare mounted. If you are going over 500 miles in one direction, I would consider carrying another tire that could be mounted in case you get stuck in a place that does not have any tires available. By the way, as much as I hate doing business with WalMart, they do carry Good Year Marathon trailer radials (and even the D range tires).

[CamarosRus]

Rusty, Thanks for the comments..........

Curious if when using those "T" hooks (that the car transports use) if there is a problem getting a straight line pull on the rachet strap.

My application would be 69 Camaro with front spoiler.

I've been told by another member with 69 Yenko Camaro that he goes around lower control arm, with axle strap!!!!!!

[SmallHurst]

Here is the t-hook I was talking about... Northern Tool Sorry I stated Northern Hyrdaulic-- it is Northern Tool. They are designed to lock into that hole and not let go!! I have e-track in the floor and I have to cross my straps. If I had the in the floor tie downs, I would go ahead and run them straight. I work at the Ford KC Assembly plant as a supplier and every transporter that I see is using chain, t-hooks and pulling straight down loading the suspension.

The only problem that I had when I tried the straight line pull was 1) the e-track attachments wanting to put a wrong pull on the e-track (it was off center and wanted to pull one corner up) and 2) making certain that I had enough strap laid out. That was easy to change with the e-track, but it would be a pain with the set in tie downs.

One thing with the axle strap around the lower control arm, get the axle strap that has a sleeve around it or wrap a towel, vibrating nylon does wonders to well detailed paint!!!