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  #101  
Old 10-20-2018, 06:00 PM
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Got all the pistons and rods in today. Plastigage check on each rod bearing clearance was .015. Rotational torque when all eight were installed was 300 inch pounds (25 ft lbs).
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  #102  
Old 10-20-2018, 10:15 PM
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Installed the original camshaft back in the engine and degreed it. Since I didn't have a solid lifter to use for degreeing purposes, I wound up disassembling one of the original hydraulic lifters and replacing the inner spring with a 5/16 nut and and reassembling it. It worked great.

I reused the existing timing chain and gears since they had all of 400 miles on them (and 20 years since the dealer installed them).

The factory intake centerline spec is 110 degrees and it turned out to be between 108.75 and 109 degrees. (after three readings). So I guess it is a little over one degree advanced which is perfectly fine with me.

Here's the factory specs on the 460/365 horsepower camshaft:

engine...............lobe lift.....valve lift.........open (btdc)... IN dur...EX dur....overlap.......hp.....................torque .........comp ratio
1971-460(4v).....253/.278...442/.486.......16 deg..........256.......270........36 deg .....(365hp@4600).....500@2800....10.5

256/270 @ SAE
193/206 @ .050"

.253"/.278" lobe lift (.443/.487 valve lift)

110/116 lobe centerlines –

113 Lobe Separation Angle
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Last edited by njsteve; 10-21-2018 at 10:18 AM.
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  #103  
Old 10-21-2018, 07:51 PM
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Still at it today. Measured the deck clearance with the dial indicator. Came out to .037. CC'd one of the chambers and got 74 cc's. Installed the cylinder heads, lifters, push rods and a new set of rocker arms. Then installed the intake. It weighs a ton! I think it was almost as heavy as one of the cylinder heads.

Worked out the calculations for compression ratio and it comes to 10.78 to 1. It should be "peppy" as Gramma used to say.
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  #104  
Old 10-21-2018, 08:37 PM
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Nice! Now that is healthy!!
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  #105  
Old 10-21-2018, 09:42 PM
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Thanks!

BTW, in case anyone wonders, the VIN stamp on these blocks is on the rear of the block, just below where the driver's side cylinder heads bolts up.
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  #106  
Old 10-23-2018, 02:26 AM
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Pretty stout grind for a stock Lincoln cam!
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  #107  
Old 10-23-2018, 10:58 AM
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While GM dumped the compression ratios in 1971 down to 8.5 to 1, Ford (and Mopar) held out to the end. From what I am learning, in 1972, Ford used an 8 degree retarded crank gear sprocket and much larger combustion chambers on the heads to this drop the compression (and horsepower) on the 460, drastically. This was the truly the end of the Cretaceous Period for engines. The power went from 365 to 245 (212 in '73) and torque from 500 to 342 ft lbs. Even with the SAE to net ratings that was still a helluva drop.

That was the main reason I wanted to degree this cam was to make sure the dealer didn't put on the later retarded timing gear set when they did the water pump repair back in 1998. I guess this was the first thing they actually got right at my Dad's local Lincoln dealer.
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  #108  
Old 10-23-2018, 11:44 AM
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In the late 70's I had a customer with a 76 460 Ford truck with a big camper on the back. No power, poor mileage. Sold him a timing chain and gears for a 70. Big difference. He had no idea that Ford had retarded cam timing on those things. To say the least, he was a happy camper after the change.
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  #109  
Old 10-27-2018, 10:12 PM
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Since the engine is mostly back together I was able to drop off the C6 at the transmission shop. It's an old Lee Myles that has been in business for 50+ years, in Union, New Jersey. The owner knew my uncle back in the 1970's when my uncle owned the Lee Myles franchise on Kennedy Blvd in Jersey City, New Jersey. It's a good shop. They have rebuilt transmissions for me for several previous projects. I even had them call me once after I dropped off an M22 and they called me back the next day and said it doesn't need rebuilding, just a couple of new gaskets: no charge. Nice!

I got the heads, intake, lifters, oil pump and pan on. I tried installing the Felpro rubber valve cover gaskets that came in the overhaul set and got extremely displeased when I went to put oil in the engine and it immediately started pouring out between the valve covers and the heads. The frikken things slid out of alignment when I tightened the valve cover bolts even though I had glued them to the covers beforehand. I HATE RUBBER VALVE COVER GASKETS. I have a set of old time cork gaskets in transit now.

I was able to paint the engine outside yesterday before the rains came.

Wanna know what the hardest part was? Getting the distributor to drop in and align with the oil pump drive. I spent an hour trying to get it into any position that would drop in and connect to the new ARP hardened oil pump driveshaft. No dice. Even though I test fit everything beforehand to make sure it would connect properly and not have any issues. So I gave up and then decided to prime the engine with a 1/2"drill and priming tool. Got 55 psi and ran the drill until oil came out every rocker arm bleed hole while I hand cranked the engine over to get all the lifters filled. I then tried for another hour to drop in the distributor and finally got it to plop in, coincidentally aligning the rotor in the exact same spot I had photographed it in when I took my disassembly photos (at TDC of #1 cylinder).
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Last edited by njsteve; 10-27-2018 at 10:22 PM.
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  #110  
Old 10-31-2018, 08:52 PM
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Great progress! Really enjoying the updates on this thread.

Regards,
Dave
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