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  #11  
Old 12-27-2021, 04:01 PM
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We've always put a length of air line on the bottom of the tank and then the valve at the end of the air line. It allows water to collect in a rubber hose and not corrode the tank.
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2021, 05:45 PM
69M22Z 69M22Z is online now
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Originally Posted by prototype View Post
We've always put a length of air line on the bottom of the tank and then the valve at the end of the air line. It allows water to collect in a rubber hose and not corrode the tank.
That's a good idea.
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2021, 01:03 PM
CamaroNOS CamaroNOS is online now
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Originally Posted by MarcDant View Post
Paul you could probably check with a telescopic camera thru the hole on top were switch mounts into, with a bright light along the bottom welded seam and you can make this cheap air dryer and remove a lot of moisture that would otherwise settle on the bottom of compressor.
Thanks Marc, I will look into that.

I appreciate you reminding us all about the dangers of air pressure.

Paul
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  #14  
Old 12-28-2021, 11:35 PM
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Thanks Paul , I give credit to the guy that made the video and can only speak for myself and not the 800 views. I feel safer now with that home made copper coil air dryer, less moisture less water to keep draining from the pipe on bottom of compressor. As they say a little goes a long way.
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Old 12-30-2021, 10:55 AM
plumL78 plumL78 is offline
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compressed air can do serious damage. I had a fedEx driver needed air in his tire. I was happy to put some air in his tire. I was putting air in and the side wall blew out at 85lbs. right where i was. A 9" gash in the side , It blew me across my lot and sent me to the hospital with internal (liver) injuries. It blew all the buttons off my shirt. Lucky to be alive
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Old 12-30-2021, 12:55 PM
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compressed air can do serious damage. I had a fedEx driver needed air in his tire. I was happy to put some air in his tire. I was putting air in and the side wall blew out at 85lbs. right where i was. A 9" gash in the side , It blew me across my lot and sent me to the hospital with internal (liver) injuries. It blew all the buttons off my shirt. Lucky to be alive
Yes you are lucky to be alive and to be able to talk about it. I work in the tire industry and every few years I hear of a horrific tire related accident in my territory while the inflation process is happening.

When a medium truck tire ruptures (zippers) and assuming it has 100 PSI in it, there is 12 tons of pressure looking to get out. That is the equivalent of being hit by a tractor.

Never stand in front of a tire when you are inflating it, always stand parallel to the tire. If a tire is going to explode, it almost always ruptures through the weakest, thinnest point......the sidewall.

Just be careful.
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2022, 06:44 PM
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The way I understand how to properly pressure test a vessel is they use liquid, that way there is not much compressive pressure 0f course they over factor the tank by what ever metric they use.

As an aside has anyone seen an excavator or truck tire rupture in one of those steel cages?
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Old 02-04-2022, 01:12 PM
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Something my Dad taught me a long time ago was to always drain an air compressor when you finish using it. It keeps the tank from rusting on the inside and is a general safety precaution. I don't want a pressurized vessel in my shop when I'm not there for sure!
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2022, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prototype View Post
We've always put a length of air line on the bottom of the tank and then the valve at the end of the air line. It allows water to collect in a rubber hose and not corrode the tank.
Better yet, buy an automatic water drain, and pipe it to the outside.

https://eatoncompressor.com/product/...ic-tank-drain/
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  #20  
Old 02-05-2022, 11:33 AM
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Wow! Yeah, I’ve got a checklist I run nightly before I close the shop up:

1. Inside air line ball valve: OFF
2. Inside water separator: Drain, relief pressure in lines
3. Outside: Tank drain valve open - drain until empty
4. Outside Compressor: OFF

In the morning, it’s the same thing:

1. Outside: Tank drain valve open - check for moisture overnight
2. Outside: Check tank pressure, turn on compressor
3. Inside: Slowly open air line ball valve and monitor line pressure
4. Inside water separator: Drain, check for moisture.

I call it my “IN and OUT” check. Sort of like the burger place, but not as greasy! If there’s a rupture in the line or anything, I can catch it right away. Blowing the line and tank out each night gets the main moisture out, then in the AM, gets the remaining moisture out due to cooling condensation. Been very fortunate in the DFW area it’s nowhere near as humid as Houston was, and my tank doesn’t get a whole lot of moisture in it. We’ll see how that goes on the first large paint job I do. That’s the real test. Blasting and using air tools hasn’t really yielded any large moisture issues so far.

So crazy, and scary, to see things like this happen.

Cheers
Dave

Last edited by A12pilot; 02-05-2022 at 11:35 AM.
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