Pinewood Derby Anyone?

[RPOLS3]

All in the axles and weight.

Polish the cr*p out of the axles, and then polish them again. Graphite the axles well and then run them in so that the graphite is on both the axle surface and the plastic wheel hub surface, make sure the alignment of the axles is correct (the wheel can turn freely, not too tight), sand the casting flash off the wheels, put the weight in the rear of the car, (if you don't have one get a digital mail scale so that you can make adjustments as you build the car and get right on the 5.0 ounce limit).

The fastest cars I have seen are the simplest designs (flat or wedge shapes).

Oh yeah - don't forget to have fun with your son.

Jake

[PxTx]

If I was thinking like Smokey, i would use the axles supplied as part of the ballast, then run a set of trick axles on the wheels.

The fact they don't mention the axle slots must be used means you have a lot of control on your car layout and I read it is being okay to drill for a canted wheel set-up.

I would run with 3 wheels touching.

I like mold #10 for wheels, but there are several known to be better.

[PxTx]

I would love to know if the Krytox sold on the BSA website is approved for your race. If you use a Teflon prep and some Krytox the car will fly! That combo will be dry and on race day it will not slow down like a graphite car does- should you have to make multiple runs. Clearly, I am showing my bias.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Should I remove wood from the front of the car, and add weight to the back of it?

Does it matter if the weight is under the car or on top?

[PxTx]

Before you do anything, start with setting up your alignment. From there you can do what you want for a shape.

The car is far from 5 oz, so no need to remove wood just to allow weight on the back end. Build a shape you like and add the weight on the back end to get to 5 oz. Only mistake would be to not have the rear wheels as high on the hill as possible.

Those rules should bring some pretty competitive cars. FYI, I've got one of those aluminum blocks if you guys decide to go for it!

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[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I can see this getting out of hand already.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

[Jeff Murphy]

Let's talk after you open the box ...

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Thanks Jeff! We have now gone 'all in' with this thing! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

I was up late speed-reading through the Speed Secrets book, tonight I will make a plan, and this weekend we will execute. Danny's race is on Feb. 1st.

[Jeff Murphy]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Some rookie questions:

1. Wouldn't the canted wheel design cause the wheel to constantly rub against the nail head, causing constant friction?
2. Is it a good idea to apply graphite to the body - right where the wheel hub could contact it?
3. Is the 5 oz weight limit a minimum or a maximum?
4. Why would Danny's car come pre-cut? It is not a rectangular block of wood, will post pic tomorrow.
5. What is the probability of a 'tear down'?
6. I'm considering building 2 cars, one with less 'investment' just in case.... what is the advice?
7. How do you test these things? Can I build a test track and install in the race trailer?
8. What type of timing mechanism is utilized, or is it visual?

Many more ?'s to come... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]