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  #371  
Old 06-25-2022, 11:13 AM
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I have spoken with this owner. His other car is the one I got all my measurements from.

Very small world, this 507 planet!

Cheers
Dave
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  #372  
Old 06-26-2022, 01:00 PM
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Squares? Check. Indigimous levels? Check. Straight edges, micrometers, and gravity compensators? Check-a-Roo!!! Welp, time to weld up some stuff and see if it resembles a front end.

Starting off reading the instructions would be a great idea. But last I checked, that never helped any guy at any point in human existence. That comes right next to asking for directions when lost. Pfflllpp….you tell me when either one of those things actually helped out a problem. Let’s see. This should go here, but why is that angled? Does it angle backwards or frontways? Does the long thingy point backwards? This goes topwise, right? OK, OK, maybe just to set a good example for the lesser know’d people, lemme just bust out this paper packet here…..

So after reading the instructions ten times and mocking things up that equal amount of times or more, I have a front end! I will say that the instructions were really detailed but did leave out a few things. There are way more measurements than I had anticipated and I’m glad I did things three, four, five times to make sure I was on the right track. Get it? Track? Front end? I know…..stupid. Anyway, more on the front assembly.

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Remember, I’m starting from nothing so my front end frame rails aren’t anything but 2x4 stock. This will be a subframe that will be connected to the side rails, seamlessly I tells ya, forming the complete frame. So I set the measurements based off an inner frame rail dimension of 26-1/4” and a inflated tire size of 27-3/4" There’s a series of calculations that determine the notch size, distance, and spacing front to back on the rails. I set the axle centerline based on a distance from the front of the rails rearward. The crossmember gets placed rearward from the centerline which is marked on the rails. It’s a simple mathematical formula that I had jotted down in my notes shown here for thoughts who are curious….
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Once level and square, I tacked it in place. Next comes placement under the front sheet metal. Using jacks, levels and the centerline marked on the fenders, I positioned the subframe in positioned and aligned it as close as I could. It didn’t have to be 100% accurate in placement since I don’t have it welded up to the main rails yet. But it needs to be square and level. But having it in the right space is a confidence booster for when I fit the wheels up and they actually fall in the wheel wells. Once that was all I placed correctly I then needed to tack the top hats on. It’s a simple process, really:

1. Measure 9/16th down from the outermost inner point of the centerline of the forward point of the coil over mount.

2. Using an angle indicator, scribe a line 3.27 degrees aftward from the previously described point.

3. Triangulate this with a point on the opposite side on the backend portion of the rearward top hat front shock inner mount.

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So after that simple calculation, a few tack welds and bingo….instant front end!!!!

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The wheels fit in the wells exactly as planned and everything is square and true. I’m extremely happy so far. Hopefully I can keep the momentum going for the rear. That’s going to require a whole other set of measurements along triangulatory longitudinal perpendicularousness.

Cheers
Dave
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  #373  
Old 06-26-2022, 05:36 PM
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Dave, I can see why you were excited about that front end kit. It looks to be perfect for this build. Keep up the good work!
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  #374  
Old 06-26-2022, 11:08 PM
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Thanks, Phil. Yes, it bolted up nicely. On the final trim out I’ll be making it look more factory without shiney polished parts and such. Heck, I may even add inspection marks!!

I’m hoping the rear ships out this week. More to come…

Cheers
Dave
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  #375  
Old 06-27-2022, 12:44 AM
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Wow. Next level stuff for sure. Makes the restoration work you've done look easy.
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  #376  
Old 06-27-2022, 11:58 AM
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Thanks, Jake! It’s definitely a realm I’ve never ventured into. I’ve installed two front ends like this with one being in a 1951 Chevy 3100 and another is a 1966 Mustang convertible. But those were on existing frames. Always fun hacking out tried and true engineering for back yard bafoonery!

Up this week will be front frame to mid section joinification and floor pannous creatous!

Cheers
Dave
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  #377  
Old 06-28-2022, 03:15 PM
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Saw this article related to a 507:

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enth...ad3cae5a706107
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  #378  
Old 06-28-2022, 09:57 PM
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----Geez, Dave! you should be able to eclipse 150 horsies without even breaking a sweat with a 215 GM. Bet you could keep it smooth a reliable with around 300hp!!!.....Bill S
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  #379  
Old 07-08-2022, 10:42 AM
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Alrighty, moving right along. The front suspension is in place so now it’s time to join the front rails to the side rails. My frame rail/industrial pipe bender is in the shop getting fixed, so the best way to join these will be the form the connectors using plate stock and cut them to fit. How do you do that? I used the same technique I used forming the body panels; paper cut outs. Worked grea! Of course everything has to be level, plum, true, square, then checked again, and again……annnnnd again. When I felt comfortable that everything was where it was supposed to be, the Lincoln Mig 225 set on D and a speed of 7 laid down a few tack welds to hold everything in place.

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The small triangles are the lower radiator mounts.
One part of the suspension that I am still on the fence on is the steering. I don’t like the way the rack and pinion looks up front. Yet, the 507 does have the drag link in front versus behind. My initial plans were to switch out that system to a manual box of some kind and use the linkage to match. I haven’t welded the rack mounts on yet since I was sent the wrong end tie rod end links in my kit. This manual rack is centered and with a 60” track width does requires longer rods. I esplained’ this to the dude on the phone where I bought my kit and he says, “No, you need a rack extension, not longer tie rods.” To which I replied, “No, I need longer tie rod ends on both sides. The problem you are referring to is a result of an offset rack and improper steering Ackerman. My rack is centered which does not change the pivot points thus keeps the Ackerman angle intact. I need longer rod ends to reach the spindles.” So this goes on and on until a conference call happens with the tech who builds the kit and he says, “You need longer tie rod ends”. Ah, customer service. The next domino in the decline of societal values. Anyway, I have the right parts so now I just have to decide what I want to do. I’ll probably just use the rack for now and alter the lower fascia to hide the thing. Easy enough to do!

For the rear I decided 4-link was the best way to go since I didn’t want to see any goofy leafs springs and a drop in Jag rear was just way too overboard for this. So just throw the rear in and weld up for bars to hold it in, right? Whoa, hold on Potsie. First you have to figure out the CG height of the car, lateral constraint points, set the angle of the smaller top bars correctly both on the horizontal and lateral, verify percentage of length between the top bars and lower bars, cross measure for squarity (squarity?) and verify track by cross triangulating the measurement on the diagonal calculating an instant center (IC) that results in correct anti-squat. See? Easy! Besides a few SuperDaveisms, believe it or not, all those terms are things one has to think about installing a 4-link set up. Yeah, I had no idea either. I’m pretty sure this was why Shawn said, “Call Art Morrison.” Time to learn more stuff!!!!

So step one was to assemble the Currie 9” sporting 3.70s and a posi with 11” drum brakes. After that was assembled and positioned, I then bolted up the wheels. Then the problems started. My 5 on 5.5” bolt pattern has thrown everyone whomst I chat with for a loop. This is the old big Ford pattern but it Instantly gets changed in everyone’s head to the more common Ford or Chevy 5 on 4.5/4.75. And that’s what happened here. Sent a message to Currie who got the word from the front end people, and the following conversation ensued:

Currie: [rrriing…..rrrrring……rrrrrrrrriiiiing] “Currie Enterprises, Get your Rear in General and start here! This is Stan, can I help you?”
Me: “Yeah, hi Stan. I ordered a 9” rear for my project and it looks like I was sent the wrong bolt pattern axles and drums. It’s supposed to be a five on…”
Currie: “May I have the order number?”
Me: “…five and a half and…oh, yeah, Order is 543875JMFC”
Currie: “Yes, what is the problem?”
Me: “Yeah, as I was saying, I received the wrong bolt pattern axles and….
Currie: “You ordered a 5 on 5.5” bolt pattern.”
Me: “I know, that’s what I’m trying to tell you, the axles you sent are wrong”
Currie: “Those aren’t wrong, that’s what you ordered.”
Me: “I know that’s what I ordered, you sent the wrong ones to me!”
Currie: “Why would we send you the wrong axles?”
Me: “Why would I call you to discuss my axles if they were the right ones? Do you think I just wanted to compliment you on how nice they were since I have nothing better to do?”

So, after this “Who’s on First” round about, I finally have the right axles and drums coming this way. But in all seriousness, they were excellent to deal with unlike the front end people. It really was just a matter of a quick email with a photo and him saying, “What the….those ain’t right! We’ll ship the right ones out to you tomorrow with a prepaid label for the return.” Now that’s how you do it!

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Despite the set back, I’m continuing with the mock up and things are going well. More to come with details on how to set up a 4-link, why the links are positioned the way they are, and the decline of customer service.

Cheers
Dave
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  #380  
Old 07-08-2022, 11:58 AM
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Wow - again.
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