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#21
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Quote:
Chances are you will have to drill the bolt holes out a little bigger on the end cylinders #1 & #7 anyway, those style manifolds always seem to shrink in from heat. We used to see that sort of cracking on similar design exhaust manifolds from mid 70,s Chev trucks that had propane conversions. |
#22
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I have been working on the smog tubes and the un-cracked manifold. Once done with that I plan to switch to the nickel MIG wire and try it out.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
#23
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Quote:
Thanks for the tip. I will test fit the manifolds and see how they fit before welding. I can always hit the bolt hole with a die grinder.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
#24
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Very hard to die grind that length of hole, just use numbered bits and drill it slightly larger till bolts go in if the manifold has shrunk.
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#25
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Most of you probably know this, but there was a repair station at the Tonawanda Foundry for cosmetic welds on cast iron parts. These repairs could only be done on non-stress areas though. The repairman just heated the damaged area to cherry red with a torch - then welded the damaged area - then covered the repair with asbestos cloth. They left the asbestos on until the next day before grinding the repaired area smooth. Most of the repairs involved chipped valve cover rails on heads and intake mating surfaces on the front and back of blocks.
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#26
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OK, sorry for the delay. Family stuff came 1st in priority
So I wanted to fill a hole in a riser for a blank. Here are the pics. Had some feed issues partway through, so some crappy welds. But good news, a cutoff wheel took the welds down with no issues. Did a dollop of weld right on the cast surface (previously media blasted). Could not pry it off. Then did some grinding and smoothed out nice without any cracking that I could see. Did some chip hammering and it dented easy. Then I filled the hole, no pre-heating of cooling. That amount of weld did not heat the part that much. Ground it smooth, easy-peesy Next, will have to make a crack in a junk manifold, drill it and bevel and see how it goes.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
#27
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Alright! Lets work on an actual crack! On a test manifold
Drilled some holes at the end of the crack, but later saw it go further, so grinded past. Cut a groove and ran a bead. Then put it in some media to slow cool it. My feed issue is fixed, but I was not centered in the groove and it missed one edge. But still weld stuck well in the groove IMO. Will still need grinding and some more passes, but I am happy with the result. Pinged it with hammer and it rang well. I think I will next fix the smog manifold over the weekend and finish this test one up after.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) Last edited by KevinW; 08-13-2021 at 06:17 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to KevinW For This Useful Post: | ||
SuperNovaSS (08-14-2021) |
#28
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Well, that was a FAIL! Weld looked nice but did not adhere. Ground it flat, hit the edge of the manifold and the cracks appeared. Well this is why we test
Did the first pass over an inch, too much probably. Next test will be 350 deg preheated, only 1/2 inch passes, then stress relieve, then back in the heat. Also instead of 75% Argon, I will be going full Argon and bumping up the heat range of the welder.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
#29
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What are you doing to stress relieve?
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#30
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No stress relief, just welded and stuck in media to cool. It was a test next test will include relief with pick hammer.
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
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