Building a modern ZL-1

[69SSRSL89]

I'm looking into building a modern ZL-1 engine for a future project. I have the new ZL-1 block at home in the crate and I'm looking into using GM performance parts aluminum heads does anyone have any advice on which heads to go with. I'd like to use a solid roller lifter and build something with some decent hp. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I was also going to ask if there is a big difference between the 7115 crank and the 6223 crank. I have a lead on a 7115, but wanted to know if there was any real big plus to get a 7115 over a 6223 when building this engine. They both seem to have the same stroke. So, I didn't know it there was much else to make it work while to hold out for the 7115. I apprecaite any help I can get with this. Thanks in advance. This site is the greatest Jesse

[Alss]

Built one a cople of years ago as a 454 and it made some decent HP..ask John Platania ..getting ready to do another..have a new block and some good old 074 heads,may try making a 496 out of it if there is enough room in the block. I used a solid roller in the previous one and it was a stormer...dammit why did I sell that car !!!

ALbert

note: block uses bowtie block components for the lifters and timing chain

[DarrenX33]

I think everyone who as owned that car has said the same thing. I myself say "why didn't I buy that car?"

[69SSRSL89]

Thanks for the info on the car that you built with the solid rollers it's good to know that someone else has done it and it worked well for them. I think I remember a thread about that car or it being mentioned in a thread a while back. Was it a hugger orange RS car with cragers on it? If it was it looked very nice. Does anyone know what the differnce was between the two cranks (6223 and the 7115) and if there is any advantage to spending more money for the 7115 crank? I'd like to built 500hp plus at the flywheel with this engine if things work out the way I want them too. By the way Al and Darren I wanted to say you guys had some nice looking cars at the SCR9. I enjoyed checking them out. Jesse

[Kim_Howie]

The 6223 crank is a 396 crank & the 7115 is a 427 crank. The only difference is the balance. The 7115 the width on the counter weight is 7/8 thick vs 7/16 on the 396 crank. The reason was because the 396 pistons were lighter. Since your going to balance the motor both cranks will work.

[VintageMusclecar]

Jesse;

If your target is 500+ HP at the flywheel, there's no real need for the more expensive 7115 crank, nor the roller cam. You can make 500+ easily with a mild flat tappet cam and the 6223 crank, and the engine should be about as reliable as an anvil.

FWIW, solid rollers can be a somewhat risky proposition on a street build. Most solid rollers are predominantly oiled by splash lubrication, and the normal sustained low-rpm operation of a street engine doesn't provide much in the way of splash oiling.

If you have your heart set on a roller cam, there are a couple of options which can give you a little "insurance", namely either Crower roller lifters with the "HPPO" option ("high pressure pin oiling"), or the Isky "Red Zone" lifters, both of which have pressurized oiling to the roller wheels & needle bearings. The main difference between the 2 is the Iskys can be sent back and rebuilt, while the Crowers can not.

While some people may shy away from a flat tappet cam in light of so many recent cam failures, that issue can basically be eliminated by using EDM lifters, removing the inner valve springs for cam break-in, and using an engine oil that still has a decent zinc content such as Rotella.

Just throwing a few options out to consider.

Eric

[69SSRSL89]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate it. Since building it with 500 plus hp at the flywheel wouldn't be an issue and since the whole assembly will be rebalanced anyway I will probably go with the 6223 to save a little cash for other parts. I was wondering since 500 hp wasn't an issue how much would some one dare go for on hp with the 6223 crank? I guess some of that falls into the streetable area also since I do plan on cruising the car a fare amount. I just was wondering what you all might suggest. What I'm planning on doing is running a TKO 600 tranny behind it with a 3:73 or possible higher rear gear. I fgured that I could still cruise it a fare amount with the overdrive and then still be able to leave the lights really fast Thanks for your help Jesse

[tom406]

Hi Jesse,
Is this mill going into your existing Camaro in lieu of the current L89 396?

Can I ask why you're not at least making it a 454 or bigger since stroking is so easy on these? Adding inches and taking out compression will give you the power you want and make pump gas a reality. I know 500hp isn't that hard even at 427 cubes, but stroking, Chevys especially, is so cost effective that I can't see not doing it.

Regards,
TOM BRESKE
Seattle, WA

[69SSRSL89]

Hey, Tom it's good to hear from you again. The L89 would stay in my 69 SS/RS 396. I'd be building it for another car that I'm picking up. This car would be more of a cruiser car that I'd probably drive a little more often. I didn't think about doing the 454 thing or storking it. I may have to check into this option. It would be nice to be able to run on pump gas and not have to be looking for race gas. For right now I'd like to start buying a few parts here and there to build the motor and get the car ready for the engine. I'll keep everyone posted on how it all works out and post pictures when it starts to come together. Jesse

[92646]

Would of should of could of, I missed out on the orange car too because of a paper work snafu and Steffano was right there with cash. ALbert and Bill always build first quality cars. After living with the 540 in my car I think all the advise given is great. I like big blocks in the 454ci - 477ci range because they are not as peaky as the smaller motors but they rev faster than motors over 500ci. Stay away from the roller cams on the street and you can run a little more compression because the aluminum dissipates heat much faster than cast iron. I thought I heard there was a problem with the aluminum galling in the lifter bores with roller lifters/cam. If you are going to run a TKO box look at 3:42 gears instead of 3:73s. Or run a taller gear and go look for a Richmond/Doug Nash 5 speed. They are not as popular now and you may be able to get one at a good price. I would recommend not much more than 500 horsepower at the flywheel because I am always concerned with damaging something in the drive train or the car with too much horsepower. AED has Holley carbs that are dialed in to your combination at a great price. The next car I get I may try a fuel injection set up that can fit under a stock looking air cleaner.
Mark Sheppard