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  #51  
Old 11-17-2020, 03:16 PM
TomN TomN is offline
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Maybe one of you have had experience with something like this. What would happen if a car with resistor wiring also had a coil with an internal resistor?
Still trying to figure out why car has no power.
I'm also looking at the cam as a possible problem too. I've set the valve lash a few times and the 'clicking' always comes back. I had blamed it on the crimp style adjusting nuts but last time I put on poly-locks.
Been busy on other projects so haven't been working on this as much lately
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  #52  
Old 11-21-2020, 11:46 PM
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If the coil doesn't need a resistor wire (because it is internally resisted) then the combination of voltage drops may bring it down to 3-4 volts-

Pull the positive wire off the coil, attach a multimeter visible inside the car, then click the switch into the RUN position and check the voltage - if there is a resistor wire I believe the voltage should be 7-8 volts.

Poly locks will come loose if the top of the stud is not flat and square, many times the studs must be machined in order to achieve such a state.

Are you cold lashing or hot lashing the valves?
Many of us prefer to cold lash them... if you are not doing it this way here are the procedures as laid out by JohnZ and Duke Williams. PLEASE refer to your cam card or check your documentation for the appropriate clearances.

Procedure is as follows:
Bring #1 to TDC on compression stroke - adjust 8E 2I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 4E 1I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 3E 8I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 6E 4I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 5E 3I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 7E 6I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 2E 5I
- rotate the crank 90deg adjust 1E 7I
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  #53  
Old 11-22-2020, 06:55 PM
TomN TomN is offline
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Thanks firstgenaddict

I've tried a different know good coil and had about the same results as with the coil that was on the car.

I did cold lash the valves. But...since I bought the car with the engine in it, I don't have any cam specs. So I set the lash at .024 I and .026 E.

Let me say that I had a 427 years ago with a cam going bad. If I drove the car 5 or 6 miles the valve lifters were not clicking - they were clacking.

I am just having a little clicking with this engine/cam - so if it is going bad, it is just starting. Thought I might drain the oil and see if there is anything.

Since I have tried a different distributor and now a coil - I may try a different carburetor to see if I can find where the power is.

Thanks for all the help
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  #54  
Old 11-27-2020, 03:21 PM
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To adjust the lifters I had used the method from an old camshaft installation guide -

Turn engine until exhaust valve starts to open (about 1/5 of the way) then set intake valve

Turn the engine until the intake valve has opened fully and then is about 1/3 of the way closed - set the exhaust valve

The stock balancer is not marked like an aftermarket performance one is

May have found where a lot of the power this engine should have has been hiding - will take the car out again soon - but may go back through the valves again first
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  #55  
Old 11-27-2020, 05:02 PM
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'


Have you confirmed the Timing Chain is correctly mounted as a tooth out would run but be low on power?
Best of luck, lookin' good otherwise!

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  #56  
Old 11-28-2020, 10:06 PM
TomN TomN is offline
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Well, I did adjust the valves and then take the car out to see if it was any better ... and it was only a little better
But when I got back home (5 miles top) there was those clicking lifters again
Cam will just have to come out
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