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  #381  
Old 07-08-2022, 01:21 PM
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Pfffttt....who needs a frame table when there are 2x4's around. Frame is looking quite cool.
Customer service...at least you got to talk to a real person. Seems most of what I get anymore are automated menus with automated choices that aren't what I called about and automated answers to their choices, that aren't what I called about.
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1970 Chevelle SS
1966 Chevelle SS
1967 Camaro ss/rs
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  #382  
Old 07-08-2022, 05:21 PM
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OR.... I get some person whom I absolutely cannot understand no matter how hard I try.
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  #383  
Old 07-08-2022, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn View Post
OR.... I get some person whom I absolutely cannot understand no matter how hard I try.
Ooooooh, tank u veddy mooch for dat inforrrrrmation.
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1970 Chevelle SS
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1967 Camaro ss/rs
1938 Business coupe, street rod
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  #384  
Old 07-09-2022, 12:09 AM
Lynn Lynn is offline
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Then me: "I am so sorry; I am not trying to be rude, but I simply cannot understand you, so I will call back and hope I get someone I can understand."

OK, back to our regularly scheduled Super Dave Adventure.
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  #385  
Old 07-10-2022, 11:28 PM
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My floor pans just showed up! I'm so excited!

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Dave
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  #386  
Old 07-11-2022, 01:41 AM
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I've bought those same floor pans a few times.
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  #387  
Old 07-15-2022, 02:27 PM
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Progression has progressed with progress! Despite the setbacks with the incorrect bolt pattern on the axles, I was able to get the rear set up and all calculations have been run, double run, and triple run with triangulatory and squarity preserved. I originally was going to design my own rear set up using torsion bars like the factory had and at the last minute just decided a 4-link was a better way to go. Not knowing about something leads me to searching for people smarter than I am to either learn by osmosis or the sponge effect and soak up all of their knowledge. While the previous got me through college using my textbooks, I can’t see calling a rep from a chassis shop and asking if we can touch craniums for a couple days. Besides being a pain to coordinate, it sounds creepy. Geeze, where was I? OK, moving on…..

It seems the off road crowd loves the 4-link set up. Check out any monster truck racing scene and you’ll see it. Rock crawlers sport them too. There’s a lot going on back there which I learned really quickly. This is such a fun project since it’s making me learn a whole new everything in regards to cars that I didn’t know before. Calculations a plenty!!!

The plan started by positioning the rear in the frame rails and then verifying it’s square to the front. This involved me pseudo-mounting the tires to the axle since my bolt pattern was not correct. I measured front to back and also triangulated the measurement to make sure it was perfectly spare in the frame. In other words, the axle is not only on the same parallel with the front track, but it’s on the same longitude and not offset from the front wheels. Once I was confident that I had that I tilted the axle to set my initial pinion angle. The pinion of the rear needs to be on the same plane at the tilt of the motor. I set this using the intake manifold by measuring the angle of the carburetor mounting flanges. It shows about 5 degrees. Angling the rear up 5 degrees gets the pinion and engine centerline angle the same. Fine tuning happens with the links later.

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Once that was set it was time to set the bars in place. Initial mock up showed that the upper bars will work but might be pointing high, and lower bars needed to be hacked shorter. So, back online I go….and then the sirens went off and arms flailed… “Danger! DANGER Will Robinson!!!!” Apparently you can’t shorten the lower arms nor do you want the upper bars facing upwards. Something called Instant Center which is a percentage measured from a starting paint of 100% based on an imaginary measurement of the suspension linkage to a point where it intersects that is effectively the point of pivot for that set up. I know, I thought the same thing….”HUH?” The fluorescent light bulb in my head displayed a weak ballast and was flickering. Well how in the heck does that get figured out and what the heck does that mean? Off to find people more smarter than me and luckily I was rewarded with an online calculator.

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The light went on full bright after finding that calculator. No more flickering! I had to weld up mounts for the lower control arms, but the uppers seemed to fall in place. A test of the suspension through the movements with a jack and an angle gauge verified the pinion movement being acceptable through the suspension travel. The other things that need to be considered during the position of the brackets are the angles of the top arms to the longitudinal axis of the car and that all the mounts are parallel to each other as are the bars. Too shallow and angle and you don’t have proper side play stability. Too steep and it’ll bind. About forty-five degrees, plus or minus a few, seems to be the best angle. Mine seemed to fall about at the forty degree mark. The left and right bars should be at the same angle and parallel to each other. In other words, one not higher set that the other. There’s one of those opticallical conclusions happening on the rear since these Ferd 9” jobbies don’t have a centered 3rd member which makes the bars appear to be at different angles since they mount a little offset from each other. The bars are the same height. The mounts are not. Finally, after all those angles are achieved and the suspension is verified it doesn’t bind up, it’s welded in. I know….PHEW!!!!!!!
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So next up is floor pans, dash, steering column positioning along with the pedal quadrant and seat. So basically, I'm building the car multiple times and then one final time and then breaking it down for paint.

Yeah, I know... Another PHEW!!!

Cheers
Dave
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Last edited by A12pilot; 07-16-2022 at 11:32 AM.
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  #388  
Old 07-16-2022, 11:41 AM
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So today the frame is back on the ground and I'm going to install the suspension again. I'll then start with positioning the firewall and start in on floors. I final welded the rest of the 4-link mounts and notched the lower forward mounts for floor pan recess. Engine and transmission show up next week so I can get those mounted too.

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A cool thing I bought of eBay is a vintage Grady White aluminum steering wheel. This thing is EERILY similar to the 507's wheel. The handle reliefs in the grip area and the reverse side has knurles just like the original. I'll probably buy a 1940s Ford aftermarket wheel and graft the hub on to this. I'm so excited!! I love it when I find parts like this!!!

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Front and rear skins piled in the corner just look cool. More to come this weekend....
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Cheers
Dave
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  #389  
Old 07-17-2022, 11:03 AM
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Moving right along, I mounted up the suspension and am now at the point where I need to start fabrication on the inner unibody. I'm starting first on the engine bay which consists of two large box rails that hold the body skin along the sides (with included drip troughs) and meet at the front which connects the hood hinges and doubles as a core support. I tacked the firewall in place so I can then start into the floors after this. I can't weld anything in place on those until I get the engine in place.

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Basically, one thing can't be done until another thing gets done before the other thing gets done.

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So more to come later this week with fabrication a plenty!!

Cheers
Dave
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  #390  
Old 07-18-2022, 12:48 AM
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Exceptional Dave, simply exceptional. Love it! More, more, MORE!
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