#61
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Just heard back from the rebuilder last night - they were able to make the donor valve from Joe work and it is on it's way back. Now I need to get the line I cut repaired and put it all back together.
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#62
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#63
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Joe's rebuilt valve finally showed up today.
Anyone know what finish it should be - natural cast, or black? Will try and get painted tonight and install. Need to give the entire brake line replacement another go or learn how to use a flaring tool......... Thanks again Joe - appreciate your generosity. |
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#64
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If you end up needing to make a double flair, get your hands on the hydraulic one I posted a pic of. The hand tool with the short handle is very difficult to get a good double over with and may leak.
I think O'Rielly's rents the hydraulic tool ??
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
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RPOLS3 (10-14-2021) |
#65
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Jake glad it was useable. From what I can tell it was left "natural" not plated or painted.
Here is a pic from my 72 Convertible.
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Joseph Farrow 1970 Chevelle L78 1970 Chevelle LS6 1972 Chevelle LS5 |
#66
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Quote:
Need to button things up and make final connections/adjustments/etc. so I can bleed the entire system. Progress pics to follow tomorrow to show what I did with the one clamp that is bolted to the top of the frame above the lower control arm forward mount and not accessible. Thanks all for the suggestions. |
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#67
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Glad you got-r-done the right way, and yes, if that flex hose was original, it is most likely restricting fluid flow.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#68
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After bailing on the line replacement twice and realizing the flare/splice deal wasn't for me I decided that the only thing preventing me from replacing the entire line was the one clip attached to the top of the frame above the lower control arm mount - also right where the muffler resides. If I could deal with this then the whole thing would work. I was able to take a small Dremel-like cut off wheel and slice the end of the clip and pry it apart enough to remove the line. Not perfectly ideal but much better than having a line with a splice in it. In addition I didn't butcher the old clip so it will still work, albeit with an open end now. I also had to cut off the hard line connection to the rear flex hose as it was not budging. After that the old line came right out. Fishing the new line back in is was a bit of a challenge but doable. Again, being on my back vs. a lift I wasn't doing myself any favors. One piece of advice - leave the new line loose until the connection to the rear line and front distribution valve are made. I now need to make the line connections to the distribution valve, tighten the 2 bolts holding he valve to the frame and re-install the line clips before I bleed everything.
Last edited by RPOLS3; 10-14-2021 at 06:01 PM. |
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dykstra (10-15-2021) |
#69
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Persistence pays in order to get it right
Well done Jake |
#70
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Spent some time buttoning things up under the car last night. Got all the fittings and lines tight and ready for fluid. Filled up the master cylinder to gravity bleed overnight, was excited that the front caliper bleeders started to flow fluid right away - but then noticed a drip - looks like the end of the rebuilt distribution valve is leaking.....ugh. No fluid to rears via gravity yet this morning either - but the entire line was replaced so didn't expect that to go as fast. I Have a call into the rebuilder on the leak. Old cars are great.
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dykstra (10-19-2021) |
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